Geographically, the Friuli is a pocket of land surrounded by the Adriatic Sea to the south, the Republic of Slovenia to the east, Austria to the north and the balance of Italy to the west. As such, it is a hybrid of cultures that were capable of clashing, but instead melded into an exotic, captivating blend.

Many people may recognize the Friuli as the location of Aviano Air Base, the staging point of daily NATO flights set to bomb Serbia earlier this year. Few realize, however, that the region is in fact the center of a distinctive wine and food culture whose originality stems from a multiethnic background that is a convergence of Italian, Slavic and Germanic influences.

When one classic recipe for gnocchi pairs Italian prune plums, potatoes and cinnamon, you know you've got some interesting history on your hands.

After being settled by Celtic tribes, the Friuli became an outpost of the Roman Empire and eventually was incorporated into the Republic of Venice. By the 18th century, though, it fell into the hands of the Hapsburg rulers and remained there until the unification of Italy about a century later. Because of its long tenure under Venetian rule, the Friuli is also sometimes called Venezia-Giulia ("Giulia" refers to Julius Caesar, who had established a military encampment there).

Under the Hapsburgs, the port towns of Trieste and Venice became hubs for trade routes that wound upward through the Friuli to the Austro-Hungarian Empire in the north, with food-stuffs and spices, such as cinnamon, clove and nutmeg, not commonly seen in the rest of Italy, being some of the goods that found their way into the countryside. As these flavors became integrated into the cooking of the Friuli, they left their mark so that even today there are strong Slavic and Germanic influences in the foods of the region that set it apart from what is generally thought to be "Italian."

In spite of the rest of the world's ignorance of them, vineyards have flourished in the Friuli since the Middle Ages. As makers of wine, the Friulians distinguished themselves in the 18th century. Of particular note were the efforts of Count Fabio Asquini, who vinified and bottled a sweet wine from a grape called picolit, attached a clearly marked label and sold the wine at high prices and in considerable quantity throughout much of Europe (about 4,000 cases per year at his peak). The fermentation even took place in small oak barriques, a practice normally associated with contemporary winemaking methods. This was quite a remarkable example of wine marketing long before there was anything called the European Union. Not long after Asquini died, Friulian wines lapsed into relative obscurity until a revival of interest that took place only recently.

Today the region produces as much red as white wine, but it is the whites that get the most acclaim. In fact, the white wines of the Friuli are considered by many to be the benchmark for quality in all of Italy, even though inroads on this claim have been made lately by the Trentino-Alto Adige region situated farther to the west. Regrettably, there seems to be an inverse relationship between the region's quality and the output - the high-caliber Friulian white wines account for only 1 percent of all wine produced in Italy.

The ebb and flow of quality wines from the Friuli has, over the years, been dictated in large part by the political atmosphere. After the Second World War, part of the eastern flank of the Collio was annexed to the former Yugoslavia, and as a consequence some prime vineyard land was split between Italy and what is now Slovenia. At least one producer in the Collio, expressing regret that this political settlement divided the lands, commented that some of the best vineyard sites are now "over there." For years, the grapes on the Yugoslav side were vinified by state-run cooperatives without the benefit of private initiative. The absence of competition showed in the wines we were able to taste. Desultory vineyard management diluted the potential of top vineyard lands, illustrating quite forcefully the difference between wines made with dedication and skill, as is done in the Collio, from those that are treated in a mediocre, haphazard manner, as was done "over there."

The glories of Friulian whites

The principal vineyard sites are known as the Collio and Colli Orientali, two geographically contiguous zones that abut the border of Slovenia, between the northern buffer of pre-alpine mountains and the temperate maritime influence of the Adriatic to the south. Though a large number of varieties are cultivated here (many indigenous to the region) most are still relatively unfamiliar to the majority of wine drinkers. The whites that one is most likely to see, either bottled under the name of the grape, or as part of a blend, are Tocai Friulano, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco, Sauvignon (as in Sauvignon Blanc), Chardonnay and, less prominently, Ribolla Gialla, along with the dessert wine called Picolit. Of these, Tocai Friulano is unquestionably the most popular in the Friuli. In fact, when one orders a tajut, a simple glass of wine in one of the many Friulian osterie (the counterpart of an Irish pub of sorts), more likely than not it will be the dry Tocai. The wine's tart apple flavors and slightly bitter edge makes it an irresistible accompaniment to the locally produced and internationally acclaimed San Daniele prosciutto.

Although the tocai Friulano grape has been identified as a distant cousin of sauvignon blanc that originated in France (where it has long been abandoned), its cultivation in the Friuli goes back at least several centuries.

The wine itself is persistently confused with Tokaj from Hungary, despite the fact that Tokaj is made from a totally different grape (furmint), which produces a sweet wine. The confusion should be laid to rest, starting in 2007, when the Italian Tocai will change its name to Friulano Bianco.

The true sauvignon blanc grape from France, known locally as sauvignon, can be quite extraordinary when grown in the Friuli because it sheds the more overtly herbal and grassy components normally associated with this grape. Here, the wine it yields is more mellow, though still quite aromatic.

As for picolit, a grape that yields a luscious dessert wine possessing the flavor of acacia honey, it has long had its place in the sun. During the late 18th century, in fact, its reputation rivaled that of the Hungarian Tokaj among the Hapsburgs.

Walter Filiputti, arguably the most influential winemaker working in the Friuli today, and a respected scholar of the food and wines of the region, provides evidence from ancient documents that picolit probably originated many centuries ago in the monastery plots of the Benedictine Abbey called Abbazia di Rosazzo.

Filiputti, of the Colli Orientali, also is known for pioneering one of the two schools of vinification for Friulian whites. Some 20 years ago, he was the first to use in a convincing manner a moderate amount of oak to impart an added element of complexity.

The other school, established by Mario Schiopetto of the Collio as an antidote to the often heavy-handed methods commonly in use until the 1960s, uses no wood in either the fermentation or aging in order to delineate the primary aromas of the fruit without the intrusion of extraneous flavors.

In either case, the essential characteristics of the Friuli's best white wines are layered and sharply focused flavors, at once harmonious and delicate. These are not blockbuster wines, however, and are usually as far as one can be from the lush and big-structured, barrel-fermented style of winemaking that predominates elsewhere in the world.

The question of style is nothing more than a matter of taste. A parallel drawn with ice cream further illustrates the point: The select U.S. brands are intense and thickly creamy, whereas the best gelato in Italy reflect the pure essence of the ingredients, clearly focused and lightly textured. Just as there are adherents of the deft Friulian white winemaking approach (and, for that matter, the approach adopted by fine winemakers in most regions of Italy) and others who prefer the heavier-handed international approach that yields more richly textured wines, there are ardent fans of both ice cream styles. The downside of Friulian whites, however, is that they don't age exceptionally well.

At one time, the wide-ranging influence of successful innovators, such as Schiopetto, led some imitators to become obsessed with producing clean, fruit-driven wines made without any skin or wood contact. In the hands of lesser producers this led to many technically adept, but otherwise uninteresting wines.

Over time, these excesses damaged the reputation of Italian whites. Today, however, anyone tasting the white wines of the Friuli can attest that overall they possess a full, though rarely unctuous, mouth-feel, and that their focused varietal character is reflected in supple and complex wines of considerable personality. Moreover, Friulian whites are eminently food-worthy wines that make natural partners for fare that runs the gamut from the conventional and familiar Italian tastes, to the earthy and spice-laden flavors of the Austro-Hungarian and Slavic linkage.

Among the producers in the Friuli who excel in the making of white wine, two stand out. The first is Schiopetto, whose Sauvignon and Pinot Bianco ($30 range) wonderfully reproduce the varietal characteristics of these grapes, and the second is Filiputti. Working out of the vineyards of the renowned Abbazia di Rosazzo, Filiputti makes, among other noteworthy wines, a zingy Sauvignon ($24), a lovely and unusual Ribolla Gialla ($24) with flavors reminiscent of mango, an unusual blend of chardonnay, tocai, pinot bianco and picolit called Poiesis ($30) that combines almond and peach flavors with a creamy texture, and a rich, elegant Ronco dei Agostiniani ($37), a blend of chardonnay, pinot bianco and tocai. The wines of Filiputti emphasize the primacy of fruit aromas. Vineyard site and clonal selection are the informing factors in what is essentially a non-interventionist style of winemaking.

Top producers from the Collio, around the towns of Gorizia and Cormons, include the idiosyncratic but much admired Josko Gravner, whose Sauvignon and Chardonnay ($65 range) have, atypically for the region, been infused with moderate doses of new French oak. The firm of Livio Felluga, at the other extreme, has followed the example of Schiopetto in fashioning elegant wines with little or no wood aging. That holds especially true in its Terre Alte ($25), a blend of sauvignon, pinot bianco and tocai that takes on with age a smoky and earthy quality. Another compelling blend is called Vintage Tunina ($39), by Vinnaioli Jermann, which contains chardonnay and sauvignon in conjunction with ribolla gialla and picolit; it is a delicious wine, intensely flavored and uncommonly lush for a Friulian bottle with beautifully integrated layers of fruit and spice. Felluga also produces a lovely, Barsac-like Picolit ($50), whose honeyed flavors recall apricot and peach with hints of orange blossom. Also from the Collio is Doro Princic, a house that makes quintessential Tocai Friulano ($14). Among the larger producers of the Collio, the wines of Tenuta Villanova, a time-tested producer that is celebrating five centuries of operation, and those of Vittorio Puiatti, are particularly noteworthy. Additionally there is the estate of Villa Russiz, whose excellent wines include a subtly aromatic Sauvignon ($24) that displays hints of tropical fruit. And finally there is Castello di Spessa, another fine producer in the Collio. This property, with its impeccable grounds and magnificent castle, has been cited by the influential Gambero Rosso wine guide as being among the very top Italian producers.

Among the fine producers in the Colli Orientali one finds Ronco di Gnemiz (ronco is the local expression for a designated parcel of land, a cru) that is recognized for its Chardonnay ($30) and Pinot Grigio ($22). Vigne dal Leon produces a Pinot Bianco ($35) with great personality. There are other stellar producers, such as Miani and Vie di Romans, but their wines are generally less available. In the difficult-to-find category, alas, is a luscious dessert wine full of honey and citrus and flowers called Ramandolo made from a local grape called verduzzo. A small amount is made by Giovanni Dri in the Colli Orientali, but it is not currently exported.

Adjacent to the Collio and Colli Orientali is another lesser known wine sub-appellation called Grave del Friuli that is also capable of producing attractive wines. An especially appealing example is the Pinot Grigio Campanile ($11), a wonderful bargain at this price.

Making inroads with Friulian reds

Even though the red wines of the Friuli have not captured the interest of wine lovers as forcefully as the whites, there are some distinctive wines being made. While merlot is the most ubiquitous and perhaps least interesting red grape being grown here, the uncommon pignolo, an indigenous variety that may also have originated in the vineyards of the ancient Abbazia di Rosazzo, is being crafted by Filiputti into one of Italy's classiest wines. Its exotic aromas of cedar, spicy tobacco and underbrush distinguish it from anything else produced in that region. There also are some oddities that one is not likely to encounter outside the Friuli, such as the native Tazzelenghe (in the local dialect, "tongue cutter"), whose brick red color, biting tannins and elevated acidity make it a forbidding wine for the neophyte.

Friulian fire

A survey of the Friuli's finest nectar would be incomplete without mentioning its signature product, namely grappa. This fiery distillate of grape pomace has buoyed the spirits of the working poor throughout the Friuli and the Veneto region at large for many generations. Recently, however, mainly because of the Nonino family in the Friuli, grappa has been tamed and endowed with a level of refinement that has catapulted it into the category of elite spirits. The Nonino grappas, in particular, are most delicately scented and, because they are each distilled from a single kind of grape, such as picolit, they capture the ethereal essence of each variety.

Grappa has always shared the limelight with wine as the beverage of choice in the osterie and, at home, at the end of the meal to be served with coffee or as an after-dinner digestif.

Comfort food

Friulian wines are the perfect complement for a number of familiar culinary standbys, starting with prosciutto, mentioned earlier as a natural partner for Tocai. Pinot Grigio has a nice bite when contrasted against the creaminess of eggplant. Sauvignon is a standout with grilled shrimp. And Pinot Bianco keeps good company with zucchini dishes. But there are some wonderful regional dishes, too, that, as un-Italian as they may seem, really make these wines sing.

Sitting around a fogher (hearth) in the Friuli, perhaps more than anywhere else in Italy, provides both the physical and spiritual warmth for which the rest of the country is so famous. Or after eating the regional "soul food" and drinking wine at one of the osterie (taverns), one comes to understand the natural contentment of the locals.

Indeed, if Italy has one stick-to-your-ribs comfort food region, this is the place.

Imagine a bowl of Friulian jota (sauerkraut and bean soup) with a bottle of Tocai. Here's a regional staple that bears Slavic roots as surely as a dish of gnocchi di susine (plums) tossed with a butter and cinnamon sauce. Try these amazing little dumplings with a glass of sweet, but hard to find, Ramandolo and see how it's a match made in heaven. Then there's gulasch, whose Austro-Hungarian provenance is mirrored in the name. The savory stew is lovely with a wood-aged Merlot. Most any Friulian cook can whip up a frico, a sort of potato, onion and cheese pancake just begging for a Tocai. One of the most interesting and variable Friulian dishes is cjalson, local pasta stuffed with anything but meat, usually served in soup. It's hard to recommend a particular wine for such an adaptable recipe, so a good Friulian Merlot would do as well as any. A real cognoscente of Friulian fare wouldn't dream of leaving the region without a bowl or two of good old-fashioned brodetto, the incomparable Adriatic fish chowder with which a Ribolla Gialla is ideal. And then there are herb omelets, which are great with Sauvignon. No mention of the traditional Friulian table is complete without citing sguazetto, a long-simmered, savory sauce or gravy with onions, garlic, herbs and tomatoes, and that indigenous pinch of cinnamon, superbly complemented by Sauvignon. And for that epitome of desserts, presnitz (strudel) calls for a sweet wine such as Picolit.

If one is lucky enough to partake in the many charms of this alluring little corner of Italy first hand, tanto meglio (so much the better). Barring the opportunity, merely uncorking a bottle of Friulian wine and savoring it with one of the region's distinctly unconventional Italian dishes, is the next best thing.

It is doubtful that one can duplicate the hospitality of the Friulian hearth, but one could do worse than emulate it.

Friuli's melting-pot fare

Jota
(bean and sauerkraut soup)
Pair with Tocai Friulano

This, like most hearty soups, is better the second day and best the third. It is a meal in itself and a perfect one, at that, for a blustery autumn or cold winter evening.

3/4 pound dried red kidney beans or Great Northern (white) beans
1 tablespoon olive oil
4 ounces pancetta, sliced thick and diced
1/2 cup chopped onion
2 garlic cloves, minced
4 ounces prosciutto, sliced thick and diced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage or 1 teaspoon dried
1 bay leaf
1 pound fresh sauerkraut, rinsed well and drained
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Pick over the beans and soak in cold water overnight, or at least 8 hours.

In a large pot, heat the oil; add pancetta, onion and garlic. Sauté, stirring frequently, until golden brown; remove from heat. Place mixture in processor; pulse a few times to form a paste.

Drain and rinse the beans. Place in large pot with prosciutto, sage and bay leaf. Add 6 cups cold water; bring to a boil and add the paste. Reduce heat and simmer one hour, until beans are tender. Remove 1/2 to 1 cup of the beans and purée; return to soup. Add sauerkraut and cook over low heat, 30-40 minutes more. Add salt sparingly (prosciutto, pancetta and sauerkraut may be salty) and pepper. Cook 10 to 15 minutes more, adding water, half a cup at a time, if soup seems too thick. Soup will thicken as it sits. Remove bay leaf and serve soup hot, or let cool, cover and refrigerate.

Serves 4-6 as a main course.

Gnocchi di Susine
(plum-filled potato dumplings)
Pair with Picolit or a proprietary white such as Vintage Tunina or Poiesis

Sauced with the unlikely combination of butter, bread crumbs and cinnamon, these little gems are in a class by themselves.

For the gnocchi:
6 medium russet (baking) potatoes
2 cups or more, all-purpose flour
Salt to taste
11/4 pounds (about 12-16, depending on size) Italian prune plums
1/3 cup brown sugar
For the sauce:
5 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup unseasoned bread crumbs
2-3 teaspoons cinnamon

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Bake the potatoes until tender. When they are cool enough to handle, scoop the potato flesh from the shells and put it through a ricer. Add salt and mix thoroughly. On a flat surface, knead in a little flour at a time until the dough is coherent but not sticky. Dust work surface with flour and pick up about 1/4 to 1/3 cup of dough at a time; with a rolling pin or the heel of your hand, flatten the dough into a thin round that will be large enough to enclose a plum. Repeat with remaining dough until you have enough rounds for all the plums. Cover and set aside so that they are not touching.

Meanwhile, in a large pot, bring 5 to 6 quarts salted water to a boil.

Wash plums, halve and remove pits. Fill each cavity with brown sugar, then place filled halves together to re-form whole plum. Wrap each plum neatly in dough round and seal tightly. Place on floured surface and cover with clean towel or plastic wrap.

Gently slide the gnocchi, one at a time, into boiling water. Cook 5 minutes, until they rise to the surface. Remove carefully with a slotted spoon, cover and keep warm.

While gnocchi are cooking, melt butter in a medium skillet. Add bread crumbs and stir until golden brown. Remove from heat. Add cinnamon and mix well. Sprinkle mixture over gnocchi and serve at once.

Serves 6-8 (2-3 gnocchi per person as a first course). - Barbara Posner Beltrami

Wine & Food Sources

The wines of Filiputti, Gravner and Tenuta Villanova are imported by Vias; those of Schiopetto, Doro Princic and Ronco di Gnemiz by Winebow; Vinnaioli Jermann, Villa Russiz and Castello di Spessa by Empson USA; Vigne dal Leon and Giovanni Dri by Vinifera; Livio Felluga by Veuve Clicquot, Inc.; Vittorio Puiatti by VinDivino; and Campanile by Beringer Wine Estates. San Daniele prosciutto is imported by Urbani Truffles & Caviar.

Contributing editors Barbara and Edward Beltrami write regularly on Italian wine and cuisine.