Rudy Von Strasser, whose $65 Estate Diamond Mountain Cabernet was the article's highest-scoring wine, notes that his pricing strategy is defined by his peers rather than the market
Photo: Robert M. Bruno
The Princes of Cabernet -Wines of pedigree and presence for less than $100By Dick RosanoWhile most wine drinkers may prefer to pull the cork on a wine priced under $20 for a simple dinner at home, more discerning palates seek bottles that possess complexity, richness and finesse, no matter how modest the meal. Aside from the obvious hedonistic advantages, wines that have a bit more pizzazz - call it "wow-power" - lead the conversation rather than just lubricate it. But still, cost is an issue for nearly all commodities, and California Cabernet Sauvignon is no exception.
There are many great values on the market, and these may be particularly attractive to the host who is entertaining a big crowd. But even though the bargain bin may be overflowing, it is hardly the source for memorable drinking.
On the other end of the spectrum are the cult Cabs - high-profile, high-priced wines produced by both boutique wineries and bigger houses. Indeed, $100- and $200-plus Cabs are becoming more commonplace despite recent economic downturns. These "Kings" of Cabernet - wineries such as Beringer, Beaulieu, Caymus, Grace, Mondavi and Phelps to name but a handful - regularly sell out every last drop of their thoroughbred Cabs. Crafted for the long-term and priced for special-occasion drinking, owners of such critically acclaimed and sought-after wines are prone to coddle their trophies in the cellar for more than a few years.
For the Cab drinker who demands depth and distinction for less than three figures, there is an often overlooked middle ground burgeoning with delectable options. Besides, a well-selected $75 wine can even be considered a steal by the jaded collector.
These "Princes" of Cabernet are more affordable, more approachable, more available and sometimes even better than their kingly brethren. As one pundit declared, "You can give a bottle to your kid for graduation and still afford the tuition." This plethora of fabulous wines often escapes attention because the bottlings are too expensive for the budget conscious and not expensive enough to earn instant cachet among critics and connoisseurs.
Choosing from among them is a challenge. Appellation has a lot to do with it, and clearly not every California hillside and valley offer the ideal terroir for the noble cabernet sauvignon grape. Generally speaking, however, winegrowers in Napa and Sonoma counties have established their regions as the premium sources for this regal varietal. And while other areas, such as the Santa Cruz Mountains, have gained notoriety for their Cabs in recent years, none can yet challenge the supremacy of these two Northern California counties.
Apparently the progeny of an odd marriage between cabernet franc and sauvignon blanc, cabernet sauvignon has proved itself to be true royalty over the centuries. It is the primary grape in most Bordeaux reds and it has been wildly successful when transplanted to other countries. So it's no surprise that it would become the most celebrated grape in America's favored wine regions. "At its best, it's complex and immensely satisfying because of the depth of its flavors," observes Chuck Wagner, owner of and winemaster for Caymus Winery, the producer of the critically acclaimed $135 Caymus Special Selection (an anointed king).
The economic boom of the 1990s disguised the soaring prices for all our luxuries. Along the way, Americans were spending big bucks on wines that were often produced in quantities of less than 1,000 cases. As we all know, such rarities appear more often in magazines than in wine shops. Limited productions enable wineries to sell their products on strictly controlled allocation (often only to restaurants), and the rapid depletion of every vintage encourages even higher prices.
One day we woke up to discover that some of America's most heralded wines had broken through the $100 barrier - some have even reached above $200 (Dalla Valle's Maya, released at $140, fetches $290 on the open market, and Bryant Family Cabernets, tagged by the winery in the $200 range, can reach $600 to nearly $1,000 per bottle at retail). The producers of these Olympian elixirs justify such price tags for a variety of reasons, including superior site, hand-selection of grapes, expensive production equipment and superstar winemakers. They also argue that their Bordeaux peers command even higher prices and that a certain clique of California Cabs are of equal merit.
"There are a couple hundred factors that go into why wines cost what they do," explains Dennis Cakebread, whose Cakebread Cellars bottlings have not jumped the $100 hurdle. "For Cabernets, the chief ones are where the vineyard is located, the yield per acre, the farming techniques and the lot selection process." With prime vineyard land in Napa and Sonoma counties soaring well past $100,000 per acre, it is not surprising to see wine prices climbing, too, but the initial asking prices for the flurry of first-release boutique Cabs we have seen over the last few years - wines with no track record whatsoever - often have more to do with owners' outsized egos.
The best of these collectibles are, admittedly, great, but there are some equally impressive wines priced under $100 that sometimes get lost in the stampede for the icons. Fairly priced and magnificently structured, these princely wines boast lush flavors and supple textures, gorgeous fruit and complexity, lingering finishes and the promise of ageability. And perhaps nicest of all, there is plenty to go around.
These uniquely positioned Cabs even live up to the rhetoric for which the critics are often ridiculed: "Wines with power in flavor, but styled with finesse," says Steve Reeder, whose Chateau St. Jean Cinq Cépages has been drawing raves for its quality/price ratio.
California Cabernets that retail between $50 and $99 (the price range established for this article) may not leap to mind when one thinks of "great deals," but they should. When the quality and consistency of flavors is clearly impressive, and when compared to some "kings" that are priced at two and three times as much, these pedigreed Princes are sensational, indeed. "You can have the experience of classic California Cabernet as much as if you had bought a Screaming Eagle," says Mary Ewing Mulligan, president of the International Wine Center in New York City.
Many of the wineries that have settled into this attractive niche have embraced a basic American value: Turn out a superior product and get paid for an honest day's work. To that end, they own prime vineyard land, cultivate the best clones, control the yield to concentrate the flavors, buy the finest barrels and hire the most talented staff. The resulting wines border on stardom - and some have already achieved it. Sure, there's a profit to be made, but the wines are priced to reflect production costs and their makers' hard work and dedication.
"Too often, we accept scarcity as the sole determination of price. I think that craftsmanship, both in the vineyard and the winery, needs to be a bigger part of the equation," says Robert Brittan, the winemaker at Stags' Leap Winery. Adds Rudy Von Strasser of Von Strasser Winery, "My price strategy is defined by my peers, not by the market," noting also that "value can be defined at various price points." Price may be relative, but so are expectations. "I think that a consumer paying $50 to $100 for a bottle of wine should expect something more than just a well-made wine. The wine should be very well crafted, but also have some uniqueness that allows it to stand out," Brittan asserts.
Much like the winemakers who have become more exacting, wine consumers have become more discriminating. We've enjoyed progressively better wines over the last dozen-odd years, and where once we chose wines carelessly, focusing only on price and varietal (and sometimes only on the label graphics!), we now scrutinize our purchases, expecting at the very least, consistency, and at the utmost, greatness. Empowered by tasting experiences, cooking shows and knowledge gleaned from wine journals, the American wine consumer is finally drinking more and drinking better (consumption of fine wines per capita is up five percent over the five-year period commencing in 1997, according to a study conducted by VinExpo). "This wine should take the experienced wine lover to the next level of enjoyment; perhaps an awareness of the interaction of a variety grown in a stellar place with the passion of a winemaker who nurtures this essence, or perhaps the traditional rendition of a classic wine style produced from vineyards with history," says Brittan.
To identify potential Princes, scores of Cabernets were sampled to find wines of breeding that would provide the quintessential tasting experience.
In setting out the parameters for inclusion, the candidates first had to have a great track record. Quality is essential for any wine, but when parting with up to $100 one should expect pleasurable drinking, if not outright greatness. "The market [for these wines] is relatively small," Cakebread observes, "though it still seems like a vibrant segment for producers who have earned their price-point through consistently high-quality production over a number of years."
Those wines that made the final cut are worthy of special attention for a number of reasons - varietal expression, a notion of place, something more than just high scores - that set them apart from the others. The winemaker's depth of experience with the site or sites was also a consideration. "We put a tremendous amount of attention to detail into these wines," says Reeder of the Cinq Cépages, "starting with the vineyard selection, then the cooper selection and then the blending to highlight the superior appellations of Sonoma County."
A no-holds-barred winegrowing philosophy is the thread that ties the featured wines together, and it starts in the vineyard. "The most important thing in wine is farming. It's about 85 to 90 percent of what's in the bottle," says Frank Altamura, whose Altamura Cabernet is 100 percent varietal. "I don't blend cabernet with other grapes, but I blend within the variety using up to eight different clones," he explains.
Interestingly, many of the most arresting wines reviewed for this article were site-specific. Rudy Von Strasser focuses on the Diamond Mountain appellation, particularly for his reds. "My skills derive from working with so many of the vineyards in the Diamond Mountain appellation," he notes.
Of course, ego plays into the Princes' winemaking equation, too, but it seems to be driven by character more than price. A winemaker who is daring enough to look beyond the core flavors of the cabernet sauvignon variety often discovers hidden attributes and nuances that give the finished wine its own unique profile. But this doesn't necessarily mean over-manipulation in the cellar. Bill Arbios of Arbios Cellars recalls what Lee Stewart, founder of the original Souverain in Napa (later moved to Sonoma and renamed Chateau Souverain) told him many years ago: "The secret of great wine is to buy the best grapes you can, spend more money than you can afford on the barrels and don't screw it up!" Grape selection is always crucial to quality, but when asking a princely sum at the register, an exceptional vineyard site is a requirement.
With that in mind, in 1970, American businessman John Goelet sent French-born winemaker Bernard Portet off on a global mission to find the most prime land on which to produce world-class wines. "Two years and five continents later, Bernard suggested Napa Valley," notes Kian Tavakoli, winemaker for the Cabernet program at Clos du Val. It was an astute decision on Portet's part. Over the last three decades, he has turned out an impressive string of critically acclaimed, eminently ageable Cabs from estate vineyards located in Napa Valley.
Ageability is another quality expected of these Princes. Many of the world's most captivating wines, such as Château Latour and Le Pin, reach their peak only after years of evolution in the bottle. And while even the Bordelais are now making wine that is more accessible at a younger age, pedigree remains essential. After all, when spending $50 or more for a bottle of wine, laying it down for a few years of character building is generally desirable. A Cabernet whose lineage goes back over several vintages enables the buyer to better judge its ability to age gracefully.
History is a relative concept when discussing California producers, most of whom can't boast a track record close to that of Clos du Val's. So, although it is a factor, relatively new wines made by up-and-comers whose standards were evidence of a clearly exceptional product were also scrutinized for this article. For example, Bill Arbios has only turned out ten vintages of his Cabernet Sauvignon, but his impressive winemaking credentials - earned at such proprieties as Sonoma's Lyeth and Chateau DeBaun and Napa's Jarvis Vineyards - and his rigor lend additional credence to his label. "My wife and I do all the work associated with our project," Arbios says, "and believe me, we work cheap! However, when it comes to the winemaking process, we spend lavishly."
"Expensive vineyards, expensive viticultural practices, including decreasing the yields, creates wine of breeding and finesse," says Mike McLaughlin, general manager of Whitehall Lane Winery. "Using costly oak barrels also adds to the expense, as does the extended aging of the wine in barrel."
In other words, you can't spend like a pauper if you want to make a Prince. Custom-ordering fine-grade, new oak cooperage - be it French, American or Slovenian - costs a great deal more than reusing old barrels, as does employing the highest grade of cork. Even the length of the cork makes a difference in polishing a high-profile Cabernet.
Each step taken by the winemaker to make a more formidable wine increases its intrinsic value, and hence its retail price. But within our capitalist system, the market ultimately establishes a product's value. "In a free economy, supply and demand have an effect on the price of everything, including wine," Chateau Souverain's winemaker Ed Killian says. "A rare wine in high demand will naturally be bid up to a high price."
But before any wine is released into the market, the expenses incurred in producing it should be well integrated into the process itself. Whether these added costs produce added quality commensurate to a wine drinker's expenditure is always the big question. Winemakers tell us that the cost of making wines of outstanding quality starts in the vineyard. We've heard this comment so often that it has become something of a cliché, so other than the price of the real estate itself, what does this commitment really entail? Clos du Val's Tavakoli explains that he uses "the most advanced viticultural techniques, such as certain trellis systems, very careful pruning, removal of lateral shoots or "suckers" that would sap the growth of the vine, green thinning, veraison thinning, leaf pulling, lateral thinning and, finally, hand-picking and hand-sorting the fruit."
The spiraling cost of producing an exceptional wine continues through its making and even bottling. And while it's true that winery owners with the deepest pockets can hire the most renowned winemakers, some of the most accomplished vintners are not always the heavyweight "name" consultants, but rather many are dedicated, truly inspired artisans who unassumingly go about their craft.
The intensity and considerable skill that someone such as Dave Miner of Miner Family Vineyards brings to the winemaking process is what elevates one Napa Valley Cabernet over another. "Nothing is more important than the creation of a wine that is singular in its style and expression of Oakville. No detail is too small -- thousands of decisions, all driven by the quest for the ultimate bottle of wine. And I live for that every day in the winery," he says.
So what does the consumer get for all this added effort and expense?
"A wine such as our Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon enhances a dining experience and in some instances can make an event," McLaughlin says.
Serving a wine of stature embellishes any menu, and obtaining such a bottling should not require the buyer to embark on a cross-country treasure hunt. In short, a wine had to be legitimately available in quantities of 1,000 cases or more in order to even be considered for this article. Although this may still pose some challenges in more rural areas of the country, at 1,000 cases-plus, there is a good chance of securing one of these bottles. Regretfully, there are plenty of worthy wines priced within the established range that would be a pleasure to drink - such as Barnett Rattlesnake Hill Vineyard Cabernet or Clos Pegase Palisades Cabernet - but they're in such short supply that even Indiana Jones couldn't easily buy them.
An interesting opportunity now faces consumers in regard to availability. In the midst of the present wine glut, retailers look for wines they can discount to encourage sales. The already-low prices of value category wines limit the effect such discounting can have, and reducing the prices of ultra-expensive wines is unlikely because there are so few of these bottles in the inventory. Happily, it is within our $50 to $99 range where the most aggressive discounting may be found. In order for the merchant to reduce a retail price, the wine has likely been discounted throughout the distribution system - from cellar to shelf. Bankers are even asking wineries to make these unprecedented discounts in order to create more cash flow, meet debts and make room in the cellar for the next harvest. This stance could possibly translate into a bonanza for California Cabernet aficionados over the next few years.
Although some of these discounts are presently being applied to the less-than-stellar 1998s, the Cabs reviewed here come primarily from the 1999 vintage (some 2000s were included where the winery had exhausted its 1999s). The decision to narrow this potentially unwieldy field was not arbitrary. The 1990s yielded many great vintages in California, and the latter half of the decade produced exceptional wines in both 1997 and 1999. There are very few 1997s still available, so that vintage has been left out of this review, and 1998 was omitted because it was a good but not great year. Comparing one winery's 1998 against another's 1999 in a blind tasting would have been an unfair contest. This standard forced me to bypass some otherwise august Cabernet houses whose 1999s are not yet ready for preview tasting, let alone release.
Because so much media attention is dedicated to both the value and cult categories, I set out to cover wines of stature whose rewards come neither cheaply nor exorbitantly. The low end of the price bracket - $50 - was set as a simple recognition of market reality, but the $99 threshold is virtually a line drawn in the sand, obstinately toed to prove that one need not drop a C-note to drink great wine.
Altamura, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - $60: Scents of blackberry, plum and raspberry. A core of concentrated black fruit flavors highlighting blackberry, plum and raspberry with accents of black currant, tobacco, licorice, oak, medium toast and dark chocolate. This wine has a smooth approach with dense, chewy textures. 3,000 cases / Score: 94
Barnett, 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain District - $60: A deeply colored, lusciously scented wine with aromas of blackberry, raspberry, light smoke and brown spice accented by hints of chocolate and cream. The palate mirrors the nose with flavors of blackberry, plum and black cherry nuanced with mocha and mint. Rich and opulent, displaying distinctive breeding and finesse. 2,000 cases / Score: 91
Bernardus, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley - $50: Luscious, deep, concentrated aromas of cassis, black pepper and black cherry. Similar palate impressions led by black cherry and cassis with a pleasant herbal touch on a highly extracted, plummy profile. 4,000 cases / Score: 91
Cafaro, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - $50: Initial aromas of cherry and light herbs followed by evocative scents of violet and rose that erupt and tease the senses. Rich, ripe fruit featuring plum, raspberry, black cherry and cassis accented by balancing cedar, chocolate, clove and an exotic note of citrus. A beautifully textured wine with exquisite balance. 1,500 cases / Score: 92
Cakebread, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Three Sisters, Napa Valley - $90: A rich bouquet of blackberry, dark chocolate, toasty oak and licorice. A complex mouthful of similar flavors, including blackberry, black cherry, dark chocolate, clove, anise, licorice and dark roasted coffee bean. 1,000 cases / Score: 93
Chateau St. Jean, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinq Cépages, Sonoma County - $70: One of the darkest, most deeply colored wines in the tasting with dense, highly extracted aromas of ripe red berry, chocolate and toast. The mouth-feel is viscous and chewy with rich, superbly balanced flavors of blackberry and raspberry accented by anise, dark chocolate, roasted coffee bean and oak that resonate in the long, textured finish. 13,000 cases / Score: 94
Chimney Rock, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, Stags Leap District, Napa Valley - $90: Seductive aromas of black fruit, toasty oak, smoke and earth. A medley of flavors, evocative of blackberry, black cherry, cinnamon, allspice, toast and oak, braced by modest tannins and rich textures. 1,000 cases / Score: 90
Clos du Val, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Palisade Vineyard, Stags Leap District, Napa Valley - $62: Enticing scents of red cherry, cranberry and oak. Flavors of red fruit possess an especially intense note of cherry, balanced by ripe, sweet tannins. 2,900 cases / Score: 88
Duckhorn, 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - $80: Forwardly fruity nose with intense scents of black cherry, vanilla and subtle notes of coffee, clove and nutmeg. Flavors mirror the nose with a focus on black cherry and vanilla. A dense and chewy wine, fabulously rich in texture and very well integrated. Best known for its luscious Merlots, this winery's top-drawer Cab is a stunner. 5,500 cases / Score: 92
Etude, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - $80: Rich aromas of strawberry, cherry and black olive with sweet oak and clove-cinnamon accents. Flavors of black cherry and chocolate with a black pepper accent. 1,600 cases / Score: 90
Fife, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley - $50: Aromas of cherry, vanilla, caramel and toast mingle with an interesting note of citrus. Very forward flavors of cherry and raspberry fruit imbued with vanilla and cream accents, and supported by an ample dose of brisk tannins. 1,200 cases / Score: 90
Gallo of Sonoma, 1999 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Northern Sonoma - $80: Primary scents of plum and blackberry with undertones of black pepper, leather, tea and anise. A huge, ultra-smooth mouthful of wine with exquisitely balanced flavors of blackberry, plum and black cherry accented by coffee, dark chocolate, nutmeg and licorice. 1,200 cases / Score: 94
Grgich Hills, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - $50: Fabulous aromas of cherry, blueberry and sweet leather in a delicate dance with chocolate, mint, licorice and coffee. A panoply of layered flavors dazzle the palate with blackberry, blueberry, mint and chocolate leading the parade. An amazing, densely packed wine. 13,000 cases / Score: 94
Kathryn Hall, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sacrashe Vineyard, Napa/Rutherford - $50: A delicate bouquet of black cherry, cassis and herbs yields to deeper scents of chocolate, roasted coffee bean and toasted hazelnut. The action-packed palate is bursting with black fruit, black cherry, cassis, licorice, chocolate and tobacco rendered on a full-bodied frame. 1,000 cases / Score: 93
Louis M. Martini, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Monte Rosso Vineyard, Sonoma Valley - $50: Complex aromas of sweet oak, cedar and mild tobacco leaf with blackberry and cherry accents. Exotic spice notes underscore generously layered flavors of soft blackberry and cherry imbued with toasty oak around the edges. A very good, exceptionally balanced wine. 1,400 cases / Score: 91
Miner Family, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville - $60: A bouquet of black cherry and black currant is punctuated by scents of cumin, sweet white oak, licorice and a curious but pleasing Port-like nuance. Soft, velvety-smooth texture supports magnificent flavors of black cherry and black currant with threads of licorice and mint laced through the core. 2,500 cases / Score: 93
Paul Hobbs, 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - $55: Opulent aromas of dark fruit, notably blackberry and black cherry, with rich chocolate and tobacco accents. The palate features a deep core of black cherry, black currant and raspberry fruit with notes of dark, roasted coffee and plush textures. Tightly wound flavors should develop and open up more fully with bottle age. 3,400 cases / Score: 89
Plumpjack, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - $54: Deep aromas of black cherry and blackberry. Rich, toothsome flavors of black cherry, blackberry and sweet red fruit sustained by sheer depth; the palate packs a punch then softens as the flavors reach the finish. 7,000 cases / Score: 90
Pride Mountain, 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - $56: Complex bouquet of fruit, coffee, mocha, white pepper and black olive. Primary flavors of cherry and raspberry jam with judicious helpings of cassis, spice, toasty oak and herbs. Oak outpaces the fruit in the finish. 3,200 cases / Score: 88
Sebastiani, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Cherryblock, Sonoma Valley - $70: Bright aromas of black cherry, cassis and anise accented by richer scents of dark chocolate, truffle and licorice. Chewy texture with dense blackberry flavors dominating
the profile. A generously oaked wine. 2,500 cases / Score: 89
Sequoia Grove, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Rutherford/Napa Valley -- $60: Cranberry and cherry scents moderated by notes of chocolate, tobacco smoke and a hint of brown spice. Flavors focus on cherry and raspberry with supple texture, light smoke accents and a nice touch of oak. A simply elegant wine. 16,000 cases / Score: 91
Spottswoode, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Spottswoode Estate Vineyard, Napa Valley - $80: Opening fruit aromas of raspberry, blackberry and black currant set off by secondary scents of licorice, kalamata olive and herbs. A burst of raspberry and blackberry flavors mimic the bouquet with soft, balancing accents of oak, black tea, smoke and cola. 4,300 cases / Score: 93
St. Supéry, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Dollarhide Ranch, Napa Valley - $70: Sweet black cherry scent highlighted by aromas of smoke, toast, cedar, light mint and herbs. Generous flavors of black cherry, blackberry and cassis edged with spice, tobacco smoke and cedar. 1,400 cases / Score: 91
Staglin, 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford/Napa Valley -- $90: Aromas of black cherry and blackberry accented by nutmeg, cassis and a subtle whiff of cigar box. Explosively fruity flavors showcase black cherry, blackberry and cassis with doses of oak, chocolate and dark toast. A powerfully structured, dense, chewy wine with rich texture and a smooth, satisfying finish. 3,000 cases / Score: 93
Stags' Leap Winery, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, Napa Valley - $65: Vibrant fruit aromas of black cherry and raspberry with succulent dark chocolate, exotic spice and toast accents. A pure "cherry and chocolate" profile with soft, round notes of brown spice. 1,000 cases / Score: 94
Sterling, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, Napa Valley - $75: Full, fruity aromas of blackberry and black cherry with wafting notes of mocha and sweet tobacco. Complex palate mirrors the nose with cassis, caramel and anise accents. Supple, rich and smooth with a long, rewarding finish. 8,450 cases / Score: 93
Von Strasser, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Estate Vineyard, Diamond Mountain District, Napa Valley - $65: This earthy, gutsy wine displays a deep core of black fruit scents with come-hither aromas of dark chocolate and freshly brewed black coffee. Rich, supple flavors of spicy black cherry, plum, raspberry and blackberry fruit, beautifully balanced by allspice and clove accents. Stylistically unique, exceptionally well balanced and richly endowed. 1,000 cases / Score: 95
Whitehall Lane, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, Napa Valley - $65: Earthy components of black coffee, dark chocolate and cedar dominate the nose. Rich, dense, chewy flavors feature black cherry, licorice, anise and dark toast with a supple oak nuance and incredible length. 3,000 cases / Score: 94
Value Bar
The very impressive $30 to $49 Cabs that follow could easily demand more princely sums. A few are even made by the recognized kings of California Cabernet.
Arbios, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley - $35: Mint and eucalyptus aromas on first whiff followed by blackberry, oak and black coffee scents. Dense and chewy, yet very soft on delivery with concentrated cherry flavors and a nice finish. An exotic, sexy wine. 2,500 cases / Score: 91
Burgess, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - $39: Aromas of black cherry and anise, accented by scents of coffee, cedar and smoke. A palate replete with black cherry and plum flavors accented by black currant and licorice, together with a rich, luscious finish. 8,000 cases / Score: 92
Clos Pegase, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - $33: Rich scents of blackberry, licorice, toast and a nice touch of caramel. The palate features black cherry, blackberry, licorice, cedar and toasty oak with a supple texture and a medium-length finish. 4,200 cases / Score: 90
Freemark Abbey, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - $33: Opens with fresh aromas of cherry and blueberry. Flavors of cherry jam, black cherry, clove and spice accented by toasty oak. 12,500 cases / Score: 88
Ferrari-Carano, 1999 Tremonte Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley - $30: Deep, rich aromas of black cherry, raspberry, anise, chocolate and leather. Continued black cherry and raspberry in the mouth with additional flavors of licorice, bittersweet chocolate and mint, all nicely balanced. 1,600 cases / Score: 93
Gallo of Sonoma, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Barrelli Creek, Alexander Valley - $30: Dense, ripe, heady aromas of blackberry, raspberry and sweet tobacco. Supple flavors of blackberry and cherry lead the palate with balancing accents of toast and oak. A bold, nicely textured wine with well-integrated tannins. 3,700 cases / Score: 91
Geyser Peak, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Sonoma County -- $40: Exuberant fruit leads intensely extracted aromas with smoke and oak notes. The palate is chewy, with a tight core of blackberry and cherry flavors, accented by licorice and herbs; highly concentrated and robust. 5,000 cases / Score: 91
Hess Collection, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - $35: Complex bouquet of blackberry, cedar, milk chocolate and oak. Dense, chewy blackberry flavors with nuances of earth and exotic hints of clove, allspice and cardamom. 12,000 cases / Score: 91
Jordan, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County - $48: Seductive aromas of blackberry, cocoa and cedar with a wisp of vanilla. Richly textured with intense, balanced flavors of blackberry, cherry, vanilla and cedar, combed with soft tannins. 50,500 cases / Score: 92
Mount Veeder, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - $40: Plummy and rich with a nose of black cherry, anise, cassis and dark chocolate. Viscous, smooth mouth-feel with flavors of black cherry, cassis and chocolate spiked with a note of black pepper. 10,800 cases / Score: 90
Rodney Strong, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alden Vineyards, Alexander Valley - $30: Pleasant, forward aromas of black cherry with whiffs of licorice, dark chocolate and peppermint. Richly textured and nicely balanced, the palate opens with flavors of cherry, blackberry and licorice. 4,000 cases / Score: 89
Rodney Strong, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Sonoma County - $40: Evocative, aromatic bouquet of cherry, plum, mint and dark chocolate. Rich texture and full body display a panoply of flavors, including black cherry, raspberry, plum and mocha framed by spicy, lively tannins that keep it sturdy and balanced. 6,000 cases / Score: 91
Silverado, 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - $35: Scents of cranberry and cherry dance on the nose with subtler hints of coffee, smoke and leather. Bright, fresh fruit flavors of cranberry and cherry supported by vibrant acidity and smooth tannins. Finishes with a slight suggestion of chocolate. 16,000 cases / Score: 90
Chateau Souverain, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Winemaker's Reserve, Alexander Valley - $35: First impressions of dark, roasted coffee bean, toast and vanilla followed by an interesting palate display of plum, black cherry and brown spice. 1,900 cases / Score: 90
St. Clement, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - $32: Opulent bouquet of black currant, blackberry, licorice and toast. Focused flavors of black cherry and blackberry with toasty sweet white oak and vanilla accents. 10,000 cases / Score: 92
Trefethen, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - $40: Rich scents of blackberry and chocolate moderated by earthy, smoky, toasty accents. Lightly herbaceous on the palate, but blackberry and chocolate shine through. Very nicely textured; a rich, smooth mouthful of a wine. 7,000 cases / Score: 89
Trinchero Winery, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Mario's Reserve, Napa Valley - $45: Scents of licorice, mint and smoke waft gently around aromas of black cherry and cranberry. A rich, velvety smooth palate focuses on blackberry, black cherry and cassis with hints of black coffee, leather, mocha and cream. 5,000 cases / Score: 90
Turnbull, 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville/Napa Valley - $35: Black fruit, especially black cherry, highlight the bright aromas of this wine, subtly accented by cedar and deep, rich earth notes. Flavors of black cherry, raspberry and licorice sport nuances of mint, cedar and medium toast. 13,200 cases / Score: 90
Contributing Editor Dick Rosano is a Washington, D.C.-based wine critic and the author of Wine Heritage: The Story of Italian-American Vintners.
