The historic Stags’ Leap estate has been lovingly restored, with as much attention to detail paid to the manor house as to the gardens that surround it.
Photo: Marguerite Thomas
Winery Gardens...A short step from petite sirah to purple agapanthusBy Marguerite Thomas
The petite sirah vineyard at Stags' Leap Winery is separated, both physically and spiritually, from winemaker Robert Brittan's beloved garden by only a few short steps. And there is no doubt about it: Thoughtfully laid-out gardens, like the most meticulously planted vineyards, are oases of tranquility where we can reconnect with the land and recharge those emotional batteries that so often get trammeled in the hurly-burly of modern life. Just ask Brittan. "One of the most important things about a garden is that it provides a place for contemplation, a place that encourages you to pause and reflect," he observes from his comfortable perch on a warm stone wall overlooking a colorful patchwork of blooms and greenery in the apothecary garden. "It's a place that feeds the soul."
Among the earliest gardens in California's wine country is the rose garden planted in the 1880s at the Korbel Family House, originally the Korbel's summer home in Guerneville. A hundred years later, horticulturist Philip Robinson undertook a painstaking restoration of the grounds. Today, with more than 250 varieties of antique roses on display, the garden at Korbel Champagne Cellars is a magnificent tapestry of colors, textures and aromas, and visitors flock to the property as much for the petals as for the bubbles.
Indeed, as wine country tourism continues to boom, winery gardens are becoming more commonplace, says California's Wine Institute. One of the most significant gardens created at a modern California wine property is the azalea collection at Far Niente in Napa Valley, which owner Gil Nickel began developing in 1981. With more than 8,000 plants, it is the largest azalea planting in California, according to Nickel, whose formative years at his family's nursery in Oklahoma provided him with both the background and the resources to create such a garden in his adopted state.
Across the valley, Molly Chappellet's winery garden up on Pritchard Hill should also be counted among the most important of the modern era. Studded with spiky artichokes, massive sunflowers and eye-popping California poppies, this wild, hill-hugging garden gained renown in part because of her charming book, A Vineyard Garden. Another contemporary Napa Valley garden of note is at Cakebread, where both utilitarian and aesthetic principles are given equal billing in a colorful mosaic of flowers, vegetables, fruit trees, berry bushes and bird-nesting boxes.
While new gardens at Far Niente, Chappellet and Cakebread were being cultivated, a few of Napa's most historic winery gardens were brought back to life. Among the venerable estates that were undergoing meticulous restorations was Niebaum-Coppola. Indeed, the original garden at Niebaum-Coppola, the treasured property pieced together by filmmaker Francis Ford Coppola over the last two decades, was so skillfully rejuvenated that it is hard to believe it had gone to seed from neglect before Coppola's rescue. One of the most outstanding virtues of the restoration is how seamlessly the garden fits into the overall framework of the imposing estate, giving the impression that it has always been here - a testament to timeless perfection.
As we Americans are ourselves sowing seeds, mulching and fertilizing in record numbers, and gardening catalogs such as Smith & Hawken are flourishing, a similar trend is taking hold in wine country. "The last ten years have been extraordinary - what's happening right now will be seen as a Golden Age for gardening," says the fortuitously named Jonathan Plant, a preeminent St. Helena-based landscaper who has designed some of the most distinguished gardens in Napa Valley. "People have begun to think differently about the overall design of a winery," he says.
For the past couple of years, Plant has worked side by side with Brittan at Stags' Leap to create the winemaker's apothecary and sensory gardens, devoted, respectively, to plants historically known for their healing properties and plants noted for their flavor and aroma values. "There is now an understanding that attention to detail and good design can create an ambience of gracious hospitality at a winery. It puts the visitor in a certain mind-frame, and it can even say a lot about what you're apt to find when you taste the wine," Plant explains.
While most winery gardens are designed for public enjoyment, a few of them, such as those at Stags' Leap, are created primarily for the benefit of the staff. "For the people who work here, this garden is a thing of beauty that nourishes the spirit," Brittan says. "It provides us a chance to focus on some of the sensory experiences of wine, but what has really ended up fascinating me is simply the sheer beauty of the garden."
In 1893, the Stags' Leap estate was laid out at the base of the majestic escarpment for which it was named. A massive, stone manor house was erected in the heart of the property with a sweeping, classic Victorian garden laid out alongside. After the dynamic years ended, the estate gradually slid into a state of decline like an aging dowager fallen on hard times. When Beringer bought the estate in 1997, the house and outbuildings were beautifully restored, but the gardens remained an untamed jungle until recently.
In addition to the apothecary and sensory gardens, the dirt-digging duo of Brittan and Plant has inserted a boccie court in the zone between the gardens and the vineyard, and they are shaping and bringing life back to other long-neglected corners of the rambling estate. Like all good gardens, this one is a work-in-progress.
Few of us can ever hope to have a garden as vast and ambitious as Stags' Leap's, but there are lessons we can all learn from this and other winery gardens - lessons that can be taken back to our own plots of earth, be they expansive yards or mere window boxes in the city.
Like wine, a garden is the sum of its parts, with color, texture and aroma the principle components. To make all of these factors come together, the first thing Plant does when he undertakes a new project is to take a good look at the "bones" of the site. He maintains that every potential garden has distinctive shapes and contours that will help define the overall landscape.
"Whether it's virgin land or an established garden, every site speaks to you," he says. When restoring a historic garden, Plant cautions that the goal is not to impose something new, but rather to take stock of the essence of the place and build on that. In the case of Stags' Leap, the dominant feature of the landscape was an abundance of stately old trees. But rather than leave them intact, Plant and Brittan agreed they should be selectively thinned, both to open up the view and to cull out those trees that had grown out of scale in relation to the estate's stone buildings.
Removing specific plants is, in fact, one of the secrets of good gardening. But how does one decide what to keep and what to forfeit? "If something dies, get it out of there," Plant insists. "If it's ugly, if it doesn't have pretty flowers - take it out. If you have to spray it, or if it doesn't have ecological relevance to the overall design, it doesn't belong in your garden." Gardening is all about "choosing things that do what you want them to do," he explains.
What does belong in a garden is what he describes as "unabashed overplanting": a dense and brightly hued carpet of purple agapanthus and bold black-eyed Susans, such as those that frame the manor house at Stags' Leap; a plush curtain of passionflower vines cascading over the old iron framework of a former greenhouse; a thicket of roses hugging a wall of lavender. Massing plants together is important, not just for the rich visual effect that is achieved, but also because they help shade each others roots, therefore requiring less water than plants that are spread out too thinly.
Good gardens don't have to depend on expensive plants or lavish landscaping, for "unabashed overplanting" can make stars of even the humblest flowers. Borders of homey but vividly colored marigolds and zinnias provide economic splashes of color (especially when planted from seed) and are also reputed to deter harmful insects.
Some densely planted landscapes need only adapt a few garden elements to tie the separate parts into a whole. At Rafanelli Estate in Sonoma's Dry Creek Valley, the importance of gates is underscored. The entrance to the winery is guarded by a large, lacy iron gate strikingly emblazoned with the letter "R" and an ornamental bunch of grapes. Bold, informative and artistic, this gate provides a dramatic transition from the outside world to the winery. By contrast, the passage between the winery area itself and the vineyard beyond is marked by a simple, utilitarian - well, garden-variety - gate.
Setting any garden into the context of its surroundings - whether vineyards, mountains or urban architecture - is an art form in itself. The challenge is greatest when the background is as stunning as California's own indigenous landscape; after all, it's tough to design a garden that can compete with waves of yellow mustard plants rolling toward the horizon, majestic oak trees rising up like sentinels from undulating golden grasses and poppies blazing like tangerine lollipops across vast swaths of countryside.
Creating a marked contrast between the garden and its surroundings can be an effective way to meet this challenge: Think of the delicacy of those frilly petunias one sees in so many urban planter boxes juxtaposed against the stern concrete of city buildings. Similarities can be likewise impressive, as woodland gardens melding seamlessly into the untamed landscape effectively demonstrate.
At Duckhorn Vineyards, estate gardener Suzanne Coffee oversees a landscape composed of many different layers of shrubs and woody plants that help create a companionable feel to the garden. There are fluid transitions between the heights and textures of the plantings, which extend all the way out to the edge of the pavement to give an unfussy and informal feeling. "The native landscape of the Napa Valley is so naturally beautiful," Coffee says. "My hope, as the caretaker of this garden, is to maintain a place that is full of pockets of interesting and beautiful plants, and yet one that still blends in with the natural surroundings."
Coffee's philosophy is demonstrated just as effectively in the garden at Newton Vineyards, where Peter Newton, a passionate gardener, working with his wife, winemaker Sue Hua Newton, carefully positioned their neatly coiffed botanical masterpiece amidst a landscape of vines interwoven with the intrinsic beauty of the landscape. Hollowed out of the volcanic soils of Spring Mountain, the classic parterre garden - beds of ornamental plants divided by paths - is like a precious gem set in a complementary framework of vineyards and oak-studded slopes. The geometric precision of the garden reflects the regimentation of the straight rows of vines, while the lushness of grass and flowers, the lavishness of color and the whimsical shapes of corkscrew juniper provide exquisite contrast to the monochromatic palate and unvarying format of the vineyard. This formal garden also has a practical function in that it helps keep the underground wine cellar that lies beneath its borders cool.
Contributing to the visual and aromatic charms found in the Newton garden, a three-tiered fountain adds yet another sensory impression - the soothing sounds of splashing water. Ferrari-Carano's flamboyant garden in Sonoma County's northern Dry Creek Valley also boasts a central fountain, but here the effect is very different. Far from an air of calm, this garden conveys a sense of nature's energy through its cheerful and multicolored mélange of flowers. The fountain's rush of water underscores the riotous landscape.
Traditional garden design typically employs water as an accent, but some gardens showcase water as the central theme, which is the case at Chateau Montelena. And while people are drawn here for samplings of the estate's esteemed wines, scores of others come just to stroll around the shores of Jade Lake, a serene water garden rimmed by a bank of low-growing greenery. A striking lacquer-red bridge leads to a small island where visitors can relax in the dappled shade of a charming pagoda.
Montelena owner Jim Barrett completely overhauled and updated the overgrown 19th century chateau when he acquired the property in 1971. Wisely, he left the splendid lake just as the estate's previous owner, Yort Wing Frank, a Chinese electrical engineer, had designed it (and named for his wife, Jade.)
Because lakes don't come cheaply, most of us must follow Newton's and Ferrari-Carano's example of incorporating water into the design by settling for a fountain, such as the gently burbling birdbath astutely placed in a shady nook at Stags' Leap. In addition to providing the calming sound of water in motion, a fountain also serves as the focal point from which the garden flows, and attracts thirsty wildlife.
A sculpture, a single ornamental tree or a sundial can do the same thing. In the winemaker's garden at Stags' Leap, a sundial anchors the garden visually, with paths leading away from it in a cruciform shape. "This strong design element is what really ties the whole thing together," Plant says.
Though this central section of the garden is based on the design of a traditional apothecary garden, Brittan says its actual purpose is threefold: First, and most importantly, it satisfies his need to garden. But more than simply fulfilling the human instinct of wanting to make plants grow, he explains, "It allows us a chance to create beauty with things that are alive and growing." Secondly, it serves as a place for contemplation, to pause and reflect, to touch, taste and smell. The low stone walls that terrace the planting beds and help define the garden's shape also provide seating that encourages visitors to touch the plants. The garden's third purpose is wine-related in that a majority of the flowers and herbs planted here boast flavors and aromas that are often associated with wine. "I have used the garden to both stimulate other people to broaden their personal lists of sensory descriptors, and to anchor descriptors for my own tastings," Brittan says.
Theme gardens, such as the sensory garden, are extraordinarily appealing, both for their visual impact and because they can help focus a gardener's design objective. Alpine gardens, herb gardens, rock gardens, mazes, rose gardens, Shakespeare gardens, topiary gardens - all have devout partisans. They also can serve alternate interests. For instance, butterfly gardens, bursting with buddleia, sweet William and salvia, attract a parade of the delicate winged creatures that will flit through the blooms all summer long.
At Stags' Leap, Plant and Brittan have created an enchanting "moon garden" on a shady terrace overlooking the vineyards. Here white agapanthus, lacy phlox, chalky shasta daisies, snowy cleoma, pale lilies and ivory floribunda roses flutter rhythmically together in the breeze.
The combined musky perfumes of the flowers follows Brittan as he strides from the monochromatic garden and heads back in the direction of the winery. Passing by a magnificent old oak, he stops to admire its gnarled beauty. "I love oak trees," he confesses. "Maybe it comes from being a native Californian, but I think their sculptural form adds so much to the garden."
A moment later, he pauses in front of a bank of roses - delicate yellow, palest pink, ruffled apricot, vibrant crimson. "There's nothing more perfect than a summer garden," he muses, "but gardens should be for all seasons." The challenge for a gardener, he says, is to find means to excite the senses when the flowers have faded and the leaves have fallen. "In winter, we concentrate more on structure. Espaliered fruit trees, for example, add sculptural elements. Bark on bare trees contributes intriguing texture."
Brittan continues along the sunken stone paths of the apothecary garden toward the central sundial, where he raises his eyes to the rock escarpment that soars up from the palisades in the distance. The garden has been carefully arranged so this magnificent site is in view from every possible vantage point.
When he reaches the winery, Brittan turns back for one more look across the garden to the vineyards beyond. "Were I ever to find myself not making wine here, I cannot possibly imagine ever making wine anyplace else where there is not a garden," he says. With the quiet smile of a man content with his lot, he opens the door and disappears into the winery.
Travel Editor Marguerite Thomas is the author of Wineries of the Eastern States.
IF YOU GO
It is necessary to call in advance before planning a garden visit because some of the wineries cited in this article are open only by appointment; others offer garden tours only on specific days.
Cakebread Cellars (707) 963-5221
Chappellet Vineyard (707) 963-7136
Duckhorn Vineyards (888) 354-8885
Far Niente Winery (707) 944-2861
Ferrari-Carano Winery (707) 433-6700
Korbel Champagne Cellars (707) 824-7000
Chateau Montelena (707) 942-5105
Newton Vineyard (707) 963-9000
Niebaum-Coppola (707) 963-9099
A. Rafanelli Winery (707) 433-1385
Stags' Leap Winery (707) 944-1303
Editor's note: An in-depth article on the elaborate wine sensory garden at Kendall-Jackson will appear in the upcoming August/September issue.
Other Winery Gardens
(Listing provided by California Wine Institute)
Napa Valley
Beringer Vineyards
Flowers
(707) 259-4500
Chimney Rock Winery
Flowers
(707) 257-2641
Artesa Winery
Native Grasses
(707) 224-1668
Diamond Creek Vineyards
Roses & Waterfalls
(707) 942-6926
Domaine Carneros
Formal French Garden
(707) 257-0101
The Hess Collection Winery
Alpine Meadow
(707) 255-1144
Louis M. Martini
Flowers & Trees
(707) 963-2736
Peju Province
Flowers
(707) 963-3600
Rustridge Vineyard & Winery
Roses & Wildflowers
(707) 965-9353
St. Clement Vineyards
Roses
(707) 963-7221
Sterling Vineyards
Roses, Rosemary & Oleandar
(707) 942-3300
Sutter Home Winery
Flowers
(707) 963-3104
Villa Helena Winery
Roses
(707) 963-4334
Sonoma County
Alexander Valley Vineyards
Flowers & Vegetables
(707) 433-7209
Chateau Souverain
Flowers
(707) 433-8281
Cline Cellars
5,000 Rose Bushes
(707) 935-4310
De Loach Vineyards
Flowers
(707) 526-9111
Forchini Vineyards & Winery
Roses
(707) 431-8886
Matanzas Creek Winery
Lavender
(707) 528-6464
Mark West Vineyard & Winery
Carnivorous Plants
(707) 544-4813
Pezzi King Vineyards
Flowers
(707) 433-3305
Mendocino County
Brutocao Cellars
Roses
(707) 744-1066
Fetzer Vineyards
Organic Garden
(707) 744-7600
Central Coast
San Francisco to Santa Barbara
Adelaida Cellars, Paso Robles
Greenhouse
(805) 239-0190
Buttonwood Farm, Solvang
Flowers & Herbs
(805) 688-3032
Cedar Mountain Winery
Flowers, Vegetables & Herbs
(925) 373-6636
Cloninger Cellars
Flowers & Lily Koi Pond
(831) 675-1453
Dover Canyon Winery
Vegetables & Herbs
(805) 434-0319
Edna Valley Vineyard
Flowers
(805) 544-9594
Elliston Vineyards
Flowers
(925) 862-2377
Georis Winery
Lavender & Vegetables
(831) 659-1050
Joullian Vineyards
Organic Garden & Orchard
(831) 659-2800
Justin Vineyards & Winery
English Garden
(805) 238-6932
Livermore Valley Cellars
Irises & Roses
(925) 455-4170
Mirassou Vineyards
Chef's Garden
(408) 274-4000
River Run Vintners
Irises
(831) 726-3112
Riverland Vineyards
Landscaped Pond
(716) 218-2116
Savannah Chanel Vineyards
Villa Garden
(408) 741-2930
Silver Canyon Estate Wines
Water Gardens
(805) 238-9392
Thornton Winery
Herbs
(909) 699-0099
Tobin James Cellars
Cactus
(805) 239-2204
Wente Vineyards
Organic Kitchen Garden & Olive Trees
(925) 456-2300
Tablas Creek Vineyard
Flowers
(805) 237-1231
San Joaquin Valley
Frasinetti Winery
Flowers
(916) 383-2444
Sierra Foothills
Coulson El Dorado Winery
Irises
(530) 644-2854
Fitzpatrick Winery
Organic Kitchen Garden
(530) 20-3248
Ironstone Vineyards
Daffodils
(209) 728-1251
Sonora Winery & Port Works
Roses
(209) 532-2657
