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![]() Dual careers rooted in science pay the mortgage Napa Valley Photo: Robert M. Bruno |
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Wine Samples: Send samples for review with retail price affixed to: The Wine News BuyLine Tasting Panel, 1493 Sunset Drive, 2nd Flr., Coral Gables, Florida 33143. The Panel: Lyn Farmer, senior staff columnist; Abraham Horowitz, BuyLine panelist; Amy Shipley, associate editor; Tom Smith, publisher; John Stroker, BuyLine panelist; Fred Tasker, Miami Herald wine critic; Todd Wernstrom, executive editor. Scoring: Tasting notes reflect the panel's collective impressions; scores are averaged and represent the panel's mean. Wines possessing certain criteria will be singled out for special recognition: Taster's Choice: Wines which display outstanding quality, character and potential. Best Value Wines of exceptional quality which sell at a moderate price.
Stemware: Riedel Ouverture tasting glasses.
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Taster's Choice: 94 Turnbull, 1999 Syrah Oakville, Napa Valley Black-purple with a brilliant violet rim. Earthy aromas of forest floor, black pepper and cedar box with a whiff of game and hints of blueberry and cream. Extracted flavors of cassis, black cherry and blackberry complemented by nuances of seared meat, smoky oak and black pepper. Young, vibrant close awash in blueberry and blackberry fruit. $25 / 415 cases 94 Chateau St. Jean, 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Sonoma County Concentrated purple-black hue. Forward Bordeaux aromas of cedar, dust and leather yield to scents of ripe blueberry, black cherry, vanillin oak, anise and coffee. Sweet, tangy flavors of black currant, blueberry, chocolate and mint beautifully integrated and balanced by lively acidity and tannins. Ripe, fat finish loaded with fruit. $90 93 Chateau Souverain, 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Winemaker's Reserve, Alexander Valley Nearly black with a purple rim. Smoky aromas of plum, chocolate, black pepper and a whiff of herbs. Rich flavors of plum and blueberry with secondary nuances of smoked meat, coffee and brown sugar. Juicy, tooth-coating finish. $35 Best Value: 91 Seven Peaks, 1999 Shiraz Paso Robles Blackish-garnet hue. Oak-driven bouquet of black licorice, mint and espresso scents. Generous layers of black cherry fruit laced with toasted oak. Youthful, spice-infused finish. $14 / 14,000 cases 90 Beringer Vineyards, 1999 Shiraz Founders' Estate, California Black-garnet hue. Spicy, fragrant aromas of strawberry, cherry, mocha, smoke and earth. Tangy flavors of red cherry and complex earthy nuances of black pepper, coffee and chocolate imbued with well-integrated oak. Juicy, evolved close. $12 90 EOS, 2000 Sauvignon Blanc Paso Robles Moss-silver hue. Light, fresh aromas of lemon and cut grass mingle with mineral and wet stone nuances. Infused with a lively acidity that brightens the lush, somewhat oily flavors of grapefruit, lemon and pear. Clean close with a hint of tangy oak. $14 Publisher's Pick: 93 Godwin, 1999 Red Wine (98% merlot/2% cab franc) Moss Oak Vineyard, Alexander Valley Intense inky hue feathering to a garnet rim. Uplifting aromas of black cherry, blueberry and plum with enticing toasted-barrel undertones. Lush, layered flavors of chocolate and cherry mesh with tea and Pomerol-like, terroir accents. Long, creamy finish punctuated by a note of mocha. $35 / 970 six-bottle cases - TES More Scores California Chardonnay 86 Alderbrook, 2000 Chardonnay Dry Creek Valley Medium yellow hue. Pretty scents that range from honeydew and banana to cinnamon and vanilla. Balanced flavors of banana, lemon, new oak and clove. Soft, toasty close. $20 88 Babcock, 2000 Grand Cuvée Chardonnay Santa Ynez Valley Bright yellow-gold hue. Aromas of tropical fruit and lemon with a sweet vanillin influence. Lively acidity brightens the fresh flavors of apple, lemon and pear. Creamy, citrusy close. $25 86 Beringer, 2000 Chardonnay Appellation Collection, Napa Valley Bright yellow hue. Primary aromas of toasty oak, vanilla and butterscotch with a wisp of pineapple. Creamy, oily texture frames flavors of pear and pineapple complemented by nuances of oak and clove. Soft, pear-tinged finish. $16 90 Cakebread Cellars, 2000 Chardonnay Napa Valley Medium gold hue. Floral scents of white fruits mingle with rich aromas of toffee, spicy oak and butterscotch. Fresh, lively acidity and lemon citrus bolster the toasty flavors of oak, butter and toffee. Lingering, juicy close. $32 - TMW 88 Charles Krug, 2000 Chardonnay Reserve, Carneros/Napa Valley Bright yellow hue with a green tint. Clean, fresh aromas of mango and lemon with wisps of honey and vanillin oak. Creamy, fresh mouth-feel loaded with flavors of pineapple, orange and lemon custard. Long close highlighted by caramel. $20 91 Cuvaison Winery, 1999 Chardonnay Reserve, Carneros/Napa Valley Attractive yellow-gold hue. Uplifting scents of peach, toasted oak and a whiff of clove. Ripe and creamy with pear, peach and pineapple flavors accented by a tasty butterscotch nuance. Lasting fruit impressions balanced with fine-tuned acidity. $33 87 Cuvaison Winery, 2000 Chardonnay Carneros, Napa Valley Straw hue with a shimmer of green; notably viscous. Fresh grapefruit and orange peel aromas. Four-square citrus flavors edged with lively acidity and new oak. Buttery finish with a kiss of vanilla. $24 88 De Loach Vineyards, 1999 Chardonnay Russian River Valley Medium gold hue. Lively aromas of lemon, toffee and spicy oak. Soft oak and mouthwatering acidity frame rich, integrated flavors of lemon and butter. Balanced, creamy close. $18 - TMW 87 Domaine Chandon, 2000 Chardonnay Carneros Light gold hue. Toasty oak leads aromas of pineapple, vanilla, mineral and clove. Lively acidity marks clean, simple flavors of lemon, peach and spicy oak. Butterscotch-infused finish. $19 86 Dry Creek Vineyard, 2000 Chardonnay Sonoma County Light yellow hue. Lean, austere scents of lemon, candied lime and mineral. Ripe flavors of banana, peach and lemon imbued with a tangy, spicy oak nuance. Tart finish. $16 85 EOS, 2000 Chardonnay Paso Robles Light straw hue. Sweet aromas of lemon and pear. Crisp, tangy flavors of green apple and grapefruit underpinned by new oak and vanillin accents. Dry close with hints of flint and mineral. $14 88 Far Niente, 2000 Chardonnay Napa Valley Medium gold hue with a greenish tint. Intriguing aromas of tropical and citrus fruit with undertones of vanilla and fresh herbs. Juicy, crisp flavors of lemon and white peach underpinned by balancing nuances of oak, clove and malt. Tart, citrusy finish. $52 85 Fetzer Vineyards, 2000 Chardonnay Barrel Select, Mendocino Light gold hue with a green tint. Forward aromas of pear, banana and pineapple with a hint of mineral. Tropical fruit flavor profile including pineapple and banana accented by a subtle herbal nuance. Lively, citrus finish. $13 88 Fritz Winery, 2000 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch, Russian River Valley Pale gold hue. Ripe aromas of banana, pineapple and pear with secondary scents of oak, vanilla and mineral. Crisp acidity frames tropical fruit flavors, butterscotch and hazelnut. Creamy close that reveals lime zest and almond. $22 85 Gary Farrell, 2000 Chardonnay Russian River Valley, Sonoma County Light white-gold hue. Fresh pineapple, oak and mineral aromas. Racy and youthful with crisp lemon zest flavors. Dry, tart finish. $29 83 Huntington, 2000 Chardonnay Russian River Valley Light yellow-gold hue. Shy aromas of butter, oak, clove and mineral with a wisp of lemon. Somewhat flabby mouth-feel marks flavors of butterscotch, new oak, black pepper and a hint of apple. Abrupt close. $15 86 Joseph Phelps Vineyards, 2000 Chardonnay Los Carneros Bright straw hue. Oak-infused aromas of banana, pear and lemon zest. Creamy, zesty mouth-feel with sweet flavors of kiwi, pear and pineapple. Persistently sweet close. $27 91 Justin Vineyards, 2000 Chardonnay Paso Robles Medium gold hue. Steely, Chablis-like aromas of lime and chalk with a whiff of oak. Generous lemon flavors show zingy acidity balanced by butter, soft oak and mineral characteristics. Tart, citrusy close. $19 - TMW 89 Ledson Winery, 2000 Chardonnay Arroyo Seco Gold straw hue. Classic varietal nose with banana and pineapple highlights. Silky texture with melded flavors of pineapple, peach and caramel. Lingering finish punctuated by toasted oak. $20 86 Markham Vineyards, 2000 Chardonnay Barrel Fermented, Napa Valley Clear gold hue. Buttery scents with lemon and new oak impressions. Balanced and clean with fresh peach and pear flavors. Dry finish with an attractive lick of sweetness. $19 87 Markham Vineyards, 2000 Chardonnay Napa Valley Bright yellow hue. Reserved scents of lemon, white peach and oak. Contrasting flavors of lemon and green apple imbued with a fresh minerality and touch of oak. Crisp, citrus finish. $16 90 Meridian Vineyards, 1999 Chardonnay Limited Release, Santa Barbara County Medium gold hue. Fresh, opulent aromas of pear, butter, soft oak and a whiff of spice. Ripe flavors of lemon, peppery oak and butter; a touch of bacon fat adds complexity. Rich, zingy close. $22 - TMW 87 Napa Ridge, 2000 Chardonnay Napa Valley Light yellow-gold hue. Generous tropical aromas of pineapple and mango mingle with wisps of smoky oak and butterscotch. Flavors of lemon, pineapple and toffee imbued with fresh acidity. A soft close. $12 85 R.H. Phillips, 2000 Chardonnay Dunnigan Hills Bright medium-gold hue. Earthy and herbaceous scents of marjoram with hints of peach and banana peel. Rich, viscous flavors of pineapple, peach and pear on a toasty frame. Sweet-sour finish. $9 86 R.H. Phillips, 2000 Toasted Head Chardonnay Dunnigan Hills Bright straw-yellow hue. Aromas of lemon, peach and pear with whiffs of wet stone and oak. Tart, oily citrus flavors laced with vanillin oak. Tangy, steely finish. $14 86 R.H. Phillips, 2000 Toasted Head Chardonnay Giguiere Ranch, Dunnigan Hills Pale gold hue. Primary aromas of pencil lead, oak and mineral with a hint of lemon curd. Sweet flavors of pineapple and pear with a background of tangy oak and butterscotch that carry through to the finish. $25 86 Robert Craig, 2000 Chardonnay Russian River Valley, Sonoma County Yellow-gold hue. Primary aromas of citrus and oak with a whiff of banana. Flavors of lemon drop, pineapple and a hint of white pepper supported by tangy oak. Lingering, clean citrus finish. $24 86 Robert Craig, 2000 Chardonnay Carneros-Napa Valley Burnished gold hue. Austere aromas of mineral, hay and chalk with a hint of peach nectar. Oily and viscous with a creamy mouth-feel and flavors of toasted oak, butterscotch and white peach. Lingering close highlighted by oak. $24 89 Rochioli, 2000 Chardonnay Russian River Valley Pale yellow hue with a green tint. Primary aromas of toasted grain, spicy oak and butter with hints of lemon, apple and clove. Zingy citrus flavors lead to softer peach and pear nectar fruit with a touch of black pepper. Tart, tangy finish. $37 91 Shafer, 2000 Chardonnay Red Shoulder Ranch, Carneros/Napa Valley Bright gold hue. Complex aromas of lemon drop, toasted grain, clove and mineral. Well-defined, creamy, layered flavors of spiced apple, peach and pineapple with lots of tangy oak. Crisp acidity keeps the velvety close lively. $37 88 Chateau Souverain, 2000 Chardonnay Winemaker's Reserve, Russian River Valley Gold-yellow hue. Toasty, forward aromas of oak and wheat with undertones of peach and pineapple. A rich mouthful of peach and lemon flavors with nuances of Key lime and clove. Caramel and oak impressions frame the close. $20 88 White Oak, 2000 Chardonnay Russian River Valley Light straw hue. Primary aromas of banana and mango lead to scents of toasted grains and peppery oak. Lively acidity marks flavors of lemon, white grapefruit, vanillin oak and a hint of bacon fat. Chalk and mineral notes highlight the close. $16 Sauvignon Blanc 89 Babcock, 2001 Sauvignon Blanc Eleven Oaks, Santa Barbara County Bright yellow hue. Vibrant aromas of cut grass mingle with ripe scents of pear, melon and white peach. Richly textured, zingy flavors of peach, pineapple and citrus with notes of mineral and grass adding complexity. Crisp, tart finish. $23 91 Cakebread Cellars, 2000 Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley Medium straw hue. Bright, tangy aromas of lemon, lime and allspice. Tart grapefruit flavors complemented by a hint of mango; a touch of oak imparts a rich nuance. Fresh acidity marks the clean finish. $20 - TMW 86 Chateau Potelle, 2000 Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley Medium gold hue. Fat aromas of banana, pineapple and pear with undertones of toasted oak. Rich, full-bodied flavors of melon, pineapple and banana imbued with a defined sweetness. Creamy, oak-infused close. $15 90 Dunnewood, 2000 Sauvignon Blanc Mendocino County Light straw hue. Clean aromas of lemon, lime and a wisp of carambola. Steely flavors of tart white grapefruit, grass and mineral backed by mouthwatering acidity. Lively, citrus close. $7 - TMW 87 Frog's Leap, 2001 Sauvignon Blanc Rutherford, Napa Valley Light straw hue. Primary aromas of lemon and oak with mown hay and herbal nuances. Tart, citrusy flavors of grapefruit and lemon and a subtle hint of wet stone. Lively acidity marks the lime zest-infused finish. $16 88 Gary Farrell, 2001 Sauvignon Blanc Redwood Ranch, Sonoma County Medium straw hue. Fresh, steely aromas of lime, grapefruit and lemon grass. Chardonnay-like weight with full flavors of pineapple, pear, butter and noticeable oak. A suggestion of smoke emerges in the rich, lingering finish. $20 85 Geyser Peak, 2001 Sauvignon Blanc California Pale gold hue. Tropical fruit cocktail aromas of pineapple and honeydew with back notes of mineral and grass. Spritzy acidity marks flavors of white grapefruit, peach and pineapple with sweet oak bringing up the rear. Crisp, fleeting close. $10 84 Huntington Cellars, 2001 Earthquake Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley Silver hue with a greenish tint. Fresh scents of citrus, gooseberry and grass. Clean flavors of pear, lime and butter backed by biting acidity. Dry, tart close. $12 85 Kendall-Jackson, 2000 Sauvignon Blanc Vintner's Reserve, California Light gold hue. Reserved aromas of melon, fig, oak and a whiff of hay. Rich, sweet flavors of orange marmalade, lemon, oak and butter. Creamy, Chardonnay-like close. $10 85 Lolonis, 2000 Fumé Blanc Redwood Valley, Mendocino County Pale straw with a greenish tint. Earthy, herbaceous scents of grass and mushroom with nuances of oak and paraffin. Sweet flavors of pineapple, pear and vanilla. Rich, sweet close. $14 90 Meridian Vineyards, 2000 Sauvignon Blanc California Pale straw hue. Fresh, clean aromas of citrus and dry straw. Hint of honeysuckle sweetness yields to lively flavors of lime and hay that show a touch of buttery oak. Zingy acidity marks the finish. $8 - TMW 86 Napa Wine Co., 2001 Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley Light silver-green hue. Lively, chalky, herbaceous aromas with a whiff of pineapple. Tart, balanced flavors of kiwi, lemon and pear. Clean finish with some lingering sweetness. $18 85 Turnbull, 2000 Sauvignon Blanc Oakville Light gold hue. Shy aromas of lemon, pear and grass. Tangy, herbaceous flavors of pineapple, lemon and sweet oak. Ripe, creamy finish. $14 Cabernet Sauvignon 93 Carmenet, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Moon Mountain Reserve, Sonoma Valley Dense black hue. Forward aromas of red cherry leather, tar and rum cake. Juicy flavors of blackberry and blueberry balanced by earthy nuances of truffle, forest floor and black pepper. Big, ripe tannins mark the tangy close. $50 91 Chimney Rock, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District, Napa Valley Deep crimson hue. Big aromas of blackberry, chocolate and maple with a wisp of new oak. Rich, ripe, lush flavors of plum, black cherry and blackberry uplifted by vibrant acidity. Sweet, evolved tannins permit blackberry and mocha notes to linger in the close. $45 88 Dunnewood, 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Clara's Vineyard, Mendocino Medium garnet hue. Bright aromas of brambly red currant and cedar. Tangy, lively tannins and bright acids frame flavors of raspberry, red cherry and oak. Soft, fruit-laced finish. $15 - TMW 87 Forest Glen, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Oak Barrel Selection, California Intense ruby-black hue. Pungent, woodsy scents of evergreen and mushroom yield to red berry aromas. Bright flavors of strawberry and cranberry imbued with moderate tannins and a crisp thread of fresh acidity. Dry, oak-laced finish. $10 92 Freemark Abbey, 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Sycamore Vineyards, Napa Valley Deep crimson hue. Complementary aromas of stewed fruit, black cherry, mocha, sweet tobacco, leather and mint. Well-balanced entry flavors of brambly raspberry, cherry and cassis with evolving secondary characteristics of tea, mocha and pine tar. Rich tannins frame the lasting finish. $59 89 Freemark Abbey, 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Bosché, Napa Valley Bright medium-garnet hue. A note of barnyard gives the aromas of plum, wintergreen and clove an earthy bent. Lively acidity frames flavors of tart rhubarb and red berry along with a note of green oak. Lean, racy style with well-integrated tannins; red fruit marks the close. $68 91 Joseph Phelps, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Deep purple hue. Complex aromas of rich, ripe blueberry, plum and black cherry, and earthy scents of leather, mint and maple. Nicely contrasting flavors of mixed berries, claret-like leather, dust and tea. Well-balanced notes of cedar, acidity and sweet tannins frame the close. $42 90 Jordan, 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County Nearly black with a garnet tint. Brambly black currant and cherry aromas with undertones of black pepper, toasty oak and dust. Black cherry flavors lead to powdered chocolate and coffee notes with hints of orange peel and eucalyptus. Big, dry, tannic close displays lots of oak. $45 92 Laurel Glen, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Mountain Black with a purple rim. Big, brooding aromas of blackberry bramble, mocha, cedar, coffee and earth. Creamy, tangy mouth-feel with lively fruit flavors of strawberry and cherry complemented by intriguing notes of milk chocolate, mint, clove and black pepper. Youthful but balanced close marked by tangy tannins and sweet fruit. $50 89 Livingston Moffett, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Stanley's Selection, Napa Valley Ink-black hue with a garnet rim. Claret style shows aromas of bramble, black pepper, smoked meat and coffee. Cherry and strawberry fruit highlighted by oak and ripe tannins. Bold, lively finish. $32 92 Madrigal, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Ruby-garnet hue. Fresh blueberry scents lead to secondary aromas of powdered mocha, cedar, toasted oak and sweet cinnamon. Earthy flavors of cherry, chocolate and new oak are balanced by chalky tannins and lots of acidity. Tangy, viscous finish shows some cherry syrup notes. $35 90 Newlan, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Deep garnet hue. Big, warm, jammy aromas of raspberry and blackberry with whiffs of eucalyptus, menthol, chocolate and earth. Bright acidity marks flavors of mixed berries, black cherry and earth on a charred oak background. Lingering cherry and vanillin oak impressions in the finish. $25 86 Pepperwood Grove, 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon California Vibrant ruby hue. Uplifting aromas of plum and cherry. Lively red fruit flavors with polished oak nuances. Fruit and oak echo in a lengthy finish. $9 92 Robert Mondavi, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Unfiltered Reserve, Napa Valley Inky hue with a ruby rim. Complex aromas of black cherry, plum, dark chocolate, maple and redwood. Lush fruit flavors of blueberry, black cherry and black currant with secondary notes of smoke, coffee and vanillin oak. Tangy, lingering close. $125 88 Shafer, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Opaque purple hue. Earth-dominated aromas of smoke, black pepper, cedar, red meat and clove. Well-integrated flavors of blueberry, eucalyptus, cedar and tea. Sweet close marked by a note of maple. $48 87 Silver Ridge, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Barrel Selection, California Viscous, garnet hue. Fresh, ripe aromas of black cherry with a whiff of vanilla. Round flavors of red and black fruit spiked with pepper. Accessible and easy drinking with a lingering sweetness in the finish. $10 91 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Unfiltered, reddish-black hue. Earthy, pungent aromas of plum, blackberry, cedar and leather show the warmth of alcohol. Rich, chewy flavors of blueberry, plum, chocolate and cedar with earthy undertones, lively acidity and vibrant tannins. Lively close shows notes of mocha and mint. $45 89 Stonegate, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Crimson hue. Spicy, lively aromas of red berries, dill, white pepper and smoke. Tooth-coating flavors of black cherry, coffee and new oak. Youthful, zesty finish. $40 91 The Hess Collection, 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Dense black hue. Black fruit aromas dominate the nose along with hints of dust, black pepper, clove and cedar. Fresh acidity enlivens core flavors of strawberry, cranberry and black cherry accented by hints of new oak. Racy finish marked by black pepper and redwood. $35 90 Turnbull, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville, Napa Valley Medium purple hue. Ripe fruit aromas of boysenberry and cherry mingle with earth, oak, savory herbs and a chocolate fudge nuance. Sweet fruit flavors of blackberry and cherry are set off nicely by vanillin oak, brown sugar and chocolate notes. Crisp, lingering close powered by raspberry and ripe tannins. $35 90 Villa Mt. Eden, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Signature, Napa Valley Purple-garnet hue. Fresh aromas of orange peel, blueberry and peppermint with exotic nuances of rum cake, maple and cedar. Velvety tannins brace lively flavors of black cherry, blueberry and cranberry with hints of chocolate and tangy oak. Long close marked by black cherry and maple. $54 Red Blends 92 Burgess, 1998 Enveiere Napa Valley, Red Table Wine Garnet-black-hue. Delicate, shy aromas of plum, earth, violet, chocolate and clove. Creamy flavors of blackberry, sour cherry, chocolate and nutmeg firmly framed by ripe tannins and vibrant acidity. Chewy, lively, earth-dominated close. $75 92 Flora Springs, 1999 Red Table Wine Trilogy, Napa Valley Bright garnet hue. Perfumed aromas of flowers, cinnamon and oak with secondary scents of red cherry, fig, chocolate and black pepper. Juicy, sweet-sour cherry flavors bolstered by lively acids, nicely resolved tannins and cinnamon, cedar box and dry tobacco notes. Sweet, lingering close. $60 - TMW 88 Ilona, 1999 Red Table Wine Howell Mountain, Napa Valley Deep garnet hue. Pungent claret aromas of mushroom, earth and tea with a note of rhubarb. An earthy nuance runs through a core of red fruits, mocha and tea. Tart, youthful close. $70 92 Justin Vineyards, 1999 Isosceles Paso Robles Dark ruby hue. Brooding, warm aromas of red fruit, new oak, Bordeaux dust and cedar box. Tangy, sweet tannins frame seamlessly integrated flavors of red berries, red licorice, toasty oak and eucalyptus that are tooth-coating and forward. Lingering close highlighted by berry and oak. $48 - TMW 91 Justin Vineyards, 1999 Justification Paso Robles Deep garnet hue. Obvious cab franc scents of brambly black fruit, violets and earth display a lively freshness. Well-integrated flavors of tangy raspberry, vanillin oak, earth and a touch of anise on a framework of approachable tannins and bright acidity. Oak-infused finish. $29 - TMW 92 Lambert Bridge, 1998 Crane Creek Cuvée Dry Creek Valley Deep garnet with a purple tint. Intriguing aromas of stewed fruit, blackberry, moist tobacco, licorice and vanillin oak. Well-balanced flavors of black cherry, plum, earthy mushroom, orange peel and chocolate. Long finish highlighted by tempered tannins. $50 87 Pine Ridge, 1999 Onyx Napa Valley-Rutherford Dense purple hue. Ripe aromas of plum and blackberry with undertones of chocolate, maple and coffee. Racy flavors of cranberry and citrus peel with a note of earthiness. Youthful finish needs time. $50 88 Robert Young Estate Winery, 1998 Scion Red Table Wine, Alexander Valley Unfiltered ruby hue. Oak-accented aromas of orange peel, earth, wintergreen and sage. Crisp, integrated flavors of cranberry, raspberry and cherry accented by tobacco, evergreen and tar notes. Oaky finish. $50 91 Turnbull, 1999 Red Wine Oakville Nearly black to the rim. Briar-patch aromas of blackberry and blueberry open to scents of cinnamon, chocolate, black pepper and new oak. Juicy black fruit flavors imbued with coffee and earth nuances. Spicy, big finish shows balancing acidity. $75 Merlot 92 Bell, 1999 Merlot Aleta's Vineyard, Yountville Napa Valley Medium ruby hue. Bordeaux aromatics of cassis, red licorice, cedar, dust, mocha and a hint of leather. Ripe and extracted flavors of cassis, raspberry and plum with vanillin oak underpinnings. Fresh acidity marks the chocolate and wild cherry close. $35 91 Chateau St. Jean, 1997 Merlot Reserve, Sonoma County Unfiltered black hue with an orange rim. Early scents of blueberry and rhubarb yield to exotic aromas of clove, cinnamon, baker's chocolate and flowers. Tooth-coating, well-balanced flavors of blackberry, plum and oak with a rich, milk chocolate character. Polished oak and black fruit linger in the close. $90 90 Cuvaison, 1999 Merlot Napa Valley Concentrated garnet hue. Grapy aromas of raspberry liqueur, mint, mocha and the warmth of alcohol. Juicy, tart flavors of raspberry and cassis well-balanced by oak and a bramble nuance. Cherry accents soften the rugged tannins in the close. $31 89 Dunnewood, 1999 Merlot Mendocino County Medium ruby hue. Sweet aromas of mixed berries lead to scents of earth, vanillin oak and smoked bacon. Juicy red fruit flavors nicely offset by suggestions of oak and herbaceous earth. Lingering, jammy close. $9 - TMW 91 Markham Vineyards, 1998 Merlot Reserve, Napa Valley Deep ruby hue. Complex, earthy aromas of mocha and barnyard mingle with macerated fruit and eucalyptus. Creamy, rich flavors of raspberry and black cherry complemented by new oak and sweet tannins. Lingering, velvety finish. $36 89 Rutherford Hill, 1998 Merlot Reserve, Napa Valley Dense crimson hue. Claret-like scents of plum, chocolate, cedar and dust. Flavors of black cherry, plum, powdered chocolate and bramble kept lively by bright acidity. Tangy, well-integrated oak- and fruit-laced close. $65 89 St. Supéry, 1999 Merlot Napa Valley Deep garnet hue. Aromas of ripe, dark fruits, earth and a whiff of eucalyptus. Rich flavors of black cherry and blackberry show nuances of chocolate and sweet oak. Tangy, racy finish. $22 Pinot Noir 90 Cinnabar, 1999 Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard, Santa Cruz Mountains Dense black hue with an orange rim. Intense, earthy aromas of bramble, clove and tea with undertones of stewed fruit and brown sugar. Flavors of cranberry and strawberry uplifted by complex nuances of cedar, orange tea and earth. Sweet-sour finish is true to the varietal. $38 90 Cinnabar, 1999 Pinot Noir Gary's Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands Nearly black hue. Intense aromas of black fruit and orange rind with secondary scents of smoke, anise, dried leaves and bramble. Ripe, viscous fruit flavors of plum and black cherry enhanced by tangy oak. Lingering, robustly youthful close. $42 90 De Loach Vineyards, 1999 Pinot Noir O.F.S., Russian River Valley Deep garnet hue. Old World-style aromas of earth, and anise-laced herbs with pretty oak and floral scents. Tart, youthful red fruit flavors imbued with complex, gamy, meaty characteristics and notes of anise and oak. Generous acidity marks the finish. Needs time to soften. $40 - TMW 89 Domaine Chandon, 2000 Pinot Noir Carneros Medium garnet hue. Earthy aromas of red berries, smoked meat, tea and cedar. Crisp acidity frames well-balanced flavors of cranberry, red cherry, earth and vanillin oak. Lingering close highlighted by sweet fruit and toast. $29 90 Lincourt Vineyards, 1999 Pinot Noir Santa Barbara County Bright crimson hue. Perfumed, varietal aromas of red cherry, moist earth and bramble. Tart raspberry and cherry flavors are balanced by fresh acidity and new oak. Lengthy, well-integrated finish. $22 - TMW 91 Meridian Vineyards, 1999 Pinot Noir Limited Release, Santa Barbara County Medium fuchsia hue. Forward, rich aromas of black cherry, bramble and cedar. Well-extracted blackberry fruit leads to balancing flavors of vanillin oak and peppery earthiness. Bright, clean finish. $22 - TMW 87 Rutz Cellars, 1999 Pinot Noir Maison Grand Cru, Russian River Valley Medium garnet hue. Dense, sweet aromas of black cherry, black currant and plum with an oak grace note. Tangy flavors of strawberry and raspberry with eucalyptus and bramble notes adding complexity. Lots of acidity marks the woody close. $25 87 Rutz Cellars, 1999 Pinot Noir Dutton Ranch, Russian River Valley Unfiltered garnet hue. Brooding aromas of stewed fruit and cranberry with whiffs of earth and pine. Juicy, tangy red fruit flavors of wild cherry and raspberry with a backing of earth, tea and oak. Gamy, dry finish. $30 89 Rutz Cellars, 1999 Pinot Noir Martinelli Vineyard, Russian River Valley Deep garnet hue. Sweet aromas of red currant and licorice with intriguing undertones of smoke, charred oak and earth. Meaty, spicy flavors of black cherry and black pepper framed by well-evolved tannins. Youthful, lingering finish. Will improve further with bottle age. $30 88 Rutz Cellars, 1999 Pinot Noir Weir Vineyard Medium ruby hue. Earthy aromas of cedar, barnyard and tobacco with hints of prune and maple. Vibrant acidity frames flavors of raspberry, cranberry and sour cherry. Tea and oak notes mark the close. $30 Syrah / Shiraz 87 Alexander Valley Vineyards, 2000 Syrah Alexander Valley Bright garnet hue. Heady aromas of cherry, raspberry, evergreen and clove. Sweet cherry fruit flavors with a cedar chest accent. Drying and tannic with a pinch of mocha in the finish. $18 90 Bell, 1999 Syrah Canterbury Vineyard, Sierra Foothills Ink-black hue. Cherry and blueberry scents lead to charred oak, toffee and chocolate aromas. Viscous mouth-feel with tart and tangy flavors of raspberry, blackberry, chocolate and vanillin oak. Jammy close imbued with zesty acidity. $28 91 Cafaro, 2000 Syrah Napa Valley Purple-black hue with a violet rim. Gamy aromas with secondary scents of blackberry and blueberry, and wisps of mocha, earth and tar. Intense, youthful flavors of black cherry, raspberry, creamy milk chocolate and vanillin oak. Lingering notes of blueberry and vanilla mark the big finish. $32 88 Canyon Road, 2000 Shiraz California Brilliant purple hue. Well-integrated scents of cherry, earth, smoke and rose petal. Black cherry flavors lead to earthy complexities of smoked bacon and vanillin oak. Lingering, fruity close. $10 85 Clos La Chance, 2000 Syrah Paso Robles Unfiltered crimson hue. Earthy, stewed fruit aromas with herbaceous undertones. Sweet, forward flavors of black currant, mocha and vanilla. Redwood marks the lively close. $20 88 Coastal Ridge, 2000 Shiraz California Black with a garnet rim. Grapy aromas of black cherry, redwood, violets and vanilla. Primary flavors of cranberry and strawberry with notes of coffee, bacon fat and earth. Crisp close with lively acidity. $7 87 Curtis Winery, 1999 Syrah Ambassador's Vineyard, Santa Barbara Brooding black coffee hue with a garnet rim. An attractive bouquet of cherry, mocha and pekoe tea. Somewhat rough-hewn flavors of aggressive oak and blackberry. Dominant wood tannins impart a youthful bitterness in the finish. $22 89 Fetzer Vineyards, 1999 Syrah Valley Oaks, California Purple-black hue. Generous scents of blueberry with aromas of bramble, black coffee, smoke and the warmth of alcohol. Flavors are chewy and ripe with opulent blueberry and cherry fruit, vanilla and new oak. Lively, grapy finish. $9 86 Jade Mountain, 1999 Syrah Napa Valley Dense, unfiltered garnet hue. Earthy aromas of dried leaf, cedar and eucalyptus with hints of cherry and strawberry. Flavors of dried fruit accented by earth, chocolate and oak notes. Dry, youthful finish. $28 88 Lincourt Vineyards, 2000 Syrah Estate Bottled, Santa Barbara County Medium garnet hue. Light aromas of earth, black pepper and a whiff of red fruit. Forward flavors of sweet raspberry and cherry with oak highlights. Smooth, creamy close. $20 - TMW 90 Meridian Vineyards, 1999 Syrah Paso Robles Medium garnet hue. The warmth of alcohol leads to aromas of blackberry and earth. Sweet-sour flavors of raspberry and strawberry imbued with lively acidity and rounded out by notes of earth, oak and bramble. Zingy, red fruit close. $15 - TMW 88 Mirassou, 1999 Syrah Harvest Reserve, Monterey County Near-black hue. Eucalyptus-tinged scents of black currant, cedar, white pepper and barnyard. Balanced flavors of blueberry, black cherry and plum with subtle cedar hints. Dry, racy close. $18 87 Pepperwood Grove, 2000 Syrah California Dense hue; purple to the rim. Rich aromas of blueberry, raspberry and rose petal. Upfront flavors of blueberry and blackberry with a woodsy, briary accent. Peppery, well-oaked finish. $9 87 R.H. Phillips, 2000 Syrah Dunnigan Hills Deep garnet-purple hue. Smoky aromas of blackberry, blueberry, black pepper, coffee and cedar. Jammy flavors of black cherry and cranberry with leather, cedar and green tea notes. Berry-infused finish. $10 88 R.H. Phillips, 2000 EXP Syrah Dunnigan Hills Purple-black hue. Rich, intense aromas of blackberry, blueberry and chocolate with intriguing nuances of orange peel, coffee and thistle. Lively acidity frames flavors of raspberry, black cherry, cedar and oaky tannins. Chalky, youthful finish. $14 88 R.H. Phillips, 1999 Syrah Viaje, Dunnigan Hills Deep crimson hue. Concentrated scents of plum and blackberry syrup with undertones of leather, oak and maple. Vibrant acidity frames flavors of cranberry, orange peel, black earth and redwood. Pine and cedar mark the close. $25 Zinfandel 85 Alderbrook, 2000 Zinfandel Reserve, Russian River Valley Deep garnet hue. Forward, sweet aromas of cherry, red licorice and menthol. Tangy flavors of raspberry and wild cherry imbued with fresh acidity and a hint of bramble. Syrupy, sweet finish. Tasted twice. $39 86 Alderbrook, 2000 Zinfandel Reserve, Dry Creek Valley Black hue with a garnet rim. Jammy aromas of blueberry and blackberry nuanced with earth and black pepper. Crisp, tart cherry flavors with hints of oak and briar. Bright, red fruit-tinged close. Tasted twice. $39 88 Fritz Winery, 1999 Zinfandel Old Vine, Dry Creek Valley Nearly opaque purple hue. Rich aromas of coffee, mocha and new oak with ripe scents of blueberry and blackberry. Generous flavors of black currant and blueberry with chocolate and vanillin oak accents. Chocolate and orange mark the warm close. $25 90 Fritz Winery, 1999 Zinfandel Roger's Reserve, Dry Creek Valley Deep purple hue. Jammy, brooding aromas of plum and black cherry complemented by cedar, tobacco and brown sugar nuances. Chewy, ripe black cherry flavors that lead to earth and mocha characteristics framed by big tannins. Lingering, bright finish accented by raspberry notes. $30 85 Lolonis, 1999 Zinfandel Redwood Valley Medium garnet hue. Dusty aromas of cherry, raspberry and cedar. Crisp flavors of wild cherry and raspberry combine with mocha and soft tannins. Sharply dry close. $18 87 Zingaro, 1999 Zinfandel Reserve, Mendocino Reddish-purple hue. Claret-style aromas of cassis, plum, black pepper and evergreen. Melded flavors of red and black fruit include raspberry, strawberry and blackberry with a hint of tangy oak. Youthful, sweet close. $18 Other Reds 90 Domaine Chandon, 2000 Pinot Meunier Carneros Medium garnet hue. Gamy, earthy aromas mingle with perfumed scents of blackberry, mocha and cedar. Well-balanced, fresh flavors of cranberry, raspberry and cherry on a rich background of milk chocolate, cinnamon and black pepper. Tangy close marked by sweet red fruit. $29 91 EOS, 1999 Petite Sirah Reserve, Paso Robles Opaque purple hue. Primary aromas of herbs, cedar, maple and stewed black fruits. Well-balanced with juicy, extracted flavors of cassis, licorice, cream and vanillin oak. Tooth-coating finish. $25 90 Lorca, 1999 Petite Sirah Napa Valley Purple-garnet hue. Warm scents of stewed fruit yield to juicy aromas of cranberry, mint, black pepper, tea and earth. Bright acidity shows off densely packed flavors of cherry, black fruit, oak and coffee. Oak-infused close. $40 89 Madrigal, 1999 Petite Sirah Napa Valley Dense black hue. Shy fruit hides behind gamy scents of smoke, vanillin oak and dust. Jammy, grapy flavors of blueberry, raspberry, coffee, new oak and earth. Warm, spicy, lingering finish. $30 90 Seven Peaks, 1999 Cabernet-Shiraz Paso Robles Diffused garnet hue. Ripe aromas of plum, blackberry and vanilla. Friendly, forthcoming flavors of black cherry, cassis and chocolate. A thread of earthiness creeps into the sweet finish; an enjoyable, ready-to-drink quaff. $20 89 St. Clement, 1999 Petite Sirah Napa Valley Purple with a garnet rim. Rich, grapy scents of blueberry, black pepper, new oak and dust with the warmth of alcohol present. Tart fruit flavors of raspberry and blueberry lead to spicy, peppery elements and a note of tar. Zesty acidity frames the oak-dominated close. $32 Beaulieu Vineyard The wines that follow were reviewed on April 17 by Senior Editor Lyn Farmer and Executive Editor Todd Wernstrom at a tutored tasting led by Joel Aiken, BV's director of winemaking. The wines were not tasted blind. 90 Beaulieu Vineyard, 1998 Tapestry Reserve, Napa Valley Medium garnet hue. Whiffs of warm alcohol and red currant yield to primary aromas of dust, dried tobacco and cedar. Sweet cassis and chocolate flavors on a background of tangy tannins and generous cedar. Big, youthful close needs some time to soften. $45 92 Beaulieu Vineyard, 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve, Napa Valley Deep purple hue. Gamy aromas with whiffs of raspberry, Bordeaux dust, cedar box and mocha. Beautifully balanced flavors of juicy, rich red currant, bramble and earth. Tart close has lots of acidity. $100 92 Beaulieu Vineyard, 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Signet Collection Clone 4, Rutherford Deep crimson hue. Shy, brooding nose features earth, black pepper, new oak and the warmth of alcohol. Tart raspberry flavors underpinned by new oak, chocolate, smoke and black pepper nuances. The close is marked by fresh berry acidity. $130 91 Beaulieu Vineyard, 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Signet Collection Clone 6, Rutherford Deep garnet hue. Bordeaux-like aromas of cassis, dust, cedar and smoke. Complex flavors of black currant, chocolate, tar, cedar and a touch of anise. Seamless finish features cassis and oak. $130 Ferrari-Carano The wines that follow were reviewed by BuyLine panelists Abe Horowitz and John Stroker on May 14 at a tutored tasting led by Ferrari-Carano proprietor Don Carano and Winemaker George Bursick. The wines were not tasted blind. 90 Ferrari-Carano, 2001 Fumé Blanc Sonoma County Light green crystal hue. Fresh scents of melon and white peach with hints of vanilla and allspice. Juicy flavors of peach, apricot and vanilla. Creamy acidity and a whisper of toasted oak in the close. $15 93 Ferrari-Carano, 2000 Chardonnay Reserve Carneros Deep gold hue. Tightly wound aromas of lemon, mineral and honey. Rich flavors of white peach and butterscotch with a wisp of smoke. Crisp acidity and well-integrated oak in the lemon-kissed close. $32 88 Ferrari-Carano, 1999 Merlot Sonoma County Dark crimson hue. Aromas of raspberry and mocha with a whiff of pepper. Juicy flavors of raspberry and red plum. Mocha and espresso characteristics carry the close. $23 88 Ferrari-Carano, 1999 Siena Red Table Wine, Sonoma County Light ruby hue. Crisp scents of wild cherry and raspberry with a whiff of leather. Racy flavors of cranberry and strawberry with nuances of orange pekoe tea. Raspberry impressions mark the close. $27 92 Ferrari-Carano, 2001 Tresor Red Table Wine, Sonoma County Deep ruby hue. Enticing aromas of black cherry, vanilla and sweet tobacco mingle with dust and wintergreen scents. Juicy flavors of black cherry, plum and raspberry backed by velvety tannins. Cassis and sweet tobacco notes mark the long, supple close. $45 La Crema The wines that follow were reviewed by Executive Editor Todd Wernstrom on April 17 at a tutored tasting led by La Crema Winemaker Jeff Stewart. The wines were not tasted blind. 89 La Crema, 2000 Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Deep garnet hue. Warm, jammy scents of black currant and bramble with a wisp of anise. Juicy red berry flavors complemented by tangy oak, earth and black pepper nuances. Generous acidity frames the fresh berry finish. $25 91 La Crema, 2000 Pinot Noir Anderson Valley Medium garnet hue. Shy, anise-laced black fruit aromas with a wisp of briar. Austere, dry, red fruit flavors become sweet and tangy with hints of oak and earth; well-balanced and mouth-filling. Tart acidity marks the cherry-tinged close. $25 88 La Crema, 2000 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Medium garnet hue. Sweet, forward aromas of red fruit, anise, earth and bramble. The warmth of alcohol slightly masks flavors of tangy red cherry, oak and earth. Lingering, sweet-sour finish. $35 90 La Crema, 1999 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Bright ruby hue. Brooding, complex aromas include strawberry, smoked meat, moist earth and the presence of alcohol. Round, juicy red cherry flavors balanced by oak, cedar and bramble nuances. Uplifting acidity marks the clean close. $35 92 La Crema, 1999 Pinot Noir Nine Barrel, Russian River Valley Deep garnet hue. Bright, forward strawberry aromas with an exotic Asian spice nuance and a heft and richness imparted by the warmth of alcohol. Tangy, juicy black currant flavor shows well against big but evolved tannins, lots of acidity and hints of cedar and dry earth. Lingering, rich finish. $50 |
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