Photo: Mitchell Shenker
The four faces of California Sauvignon BlancBy Steve PitcherUnlike well-behaved and pre-dictable Chardonnay, there
is no such thing as a typical California Sauvignon Blanc. Indeed, in terms of style and approach, it's a wine of many faces. A dictionary might attempt to define it thusly:
Sauvignon Blanc (SOE-veen-yonh BLONK) [French for white sauvignon (variety of grape)]: A dry white California wine made from a grape originally grown in Bordeaux and the Loire Valley, which characteristically possesses any number of traits: pungency; exuberance; assertiveness; fruitiness; straw-perfume; new-mown hay; grassiness; herbaceousness; asparagus; gooseberry; jalapeño chile; bell pepper; dill; green olive; rosemary; bay leaf; nutmeg; vanilla; flintiness; minerality; white pepper; honeysuckle; grapefruit; melon; apple; pear; pineapple; passion fruit; guava; fig; tang; raciness; zest; creaminess; viscosity; butter; oak; toast; smoke.
The wine's multiple personalities have led to consumer confusion, allowing the more reliable Chardonnay to shine as the state's leading white. Which is not to say that California Sauvignon Blanc is a wine whose stylistic house is in need of tidying. It's sort of a jack-of-all-trades, master-of-none varietal, which is what makes it so inherently interesting.
To say the grape has range is an understatement. Consider gooseberry, a descriptive word that has been bandied about for the last five years or so. What's a gooseberry, you may reasonably ask? Technically, it's a small, green, acidic berry that grows on the prickly gooseberry bush, which, when crushed, gives off a distinctly green-vegetable smell, similar to that of freshly chopped bell pepper or asparagus, or just-mown grass. It's that wonderfully pungent, herbaceous aroma that makes New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc so appealing.
The descriptor nudged its way into the American wine discussion as New Zealand winemakers sought to explain their flagship varietal to an export clientele. Gooseberries are common in the cooler parts of New Zealand, primarily the Marlborough region on South Island, so it was a sort of hometown flavor reference that tripped lightly off their tongues. When New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc began to take off in popularity stateside, gooseberry became a shorthand term for the green herbaceousness that defines the Kiwi style.
The French have their own equivalent of gooseberry, sometimes rendered as pipi du chat (chat being cat; the rest is left to your imagination), and employed when the same green herbaceousness is found to an abundant degree in a distinctive Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé from the Loire Valley.
Many California wineries are now emulating the Kiwi style, or something close to it. They are doing so by abandoning heavy oak regimens (intended to create a faux Chardonnay) in favor of blending techniques, employing varying amounts of sémillon and even viognier and other varieties to achieve more complexity and richness.
These sleek, racy, exuberant Sauvignons have their fans, while others prefer the more subdued, elegant style that originated in Graves, where the châteaux of Pessac-Léognan also take advantage of the blending contribution of sémillon and barrel-ferment their wine to obtain a desired degree of spiciness and roundness.
Though the variety was established in California in the late 1870s - initially brought from France and planted in the Livermore Valley - the state's Sauvignon Blanc production began to sort itself out stylistically in the 1990s. Toward the end of the decade, two main styles had emerged, each essentially split into two sub-groups.
In one school of winemaking, the wines are fermented entirely or mostly in stainless steel with winemakers intent on producing a crisp, expressive wine that emphasizes either the varietal's inherent grassy-herbal qualities or fruity flavors, ranging from citrus, pear and melon to tropical and passion fruit.
The other school employs barrel fermentation, with some in this group intent on letting the varietal grassiness express itself to varying degrees, while others employ secondary malolactic fermentation, lees stirring and extended oak aging to create a creamy, luscious Sauvignon that can give Chardonnay a run for its money.
These winemaking style divisions work to the advantage of the savvy consumer, providing greater selection in a broad price range. Arguably, Sauvignon Blanc has long been America's best buy in white wine, offering varietal character and versatility, coupled with availability. What is more, it virtually defines the term "food-friendly."
With distinctive character and bright flavors, Sauvignon Blanc can impressively support spicy and assertively flavored dishes where bigger, bolder, oakier Chardonnay often falls well short of the mark. The wine's evident but not overpowering acidity also enables it to deftly balance richer, creamy preparations and higher-acid foods, such as tomatoes and Chèvre or other fresh cheeses.
Lighter-bodied Sauvignons are dry and crisp enough to enhance a wide range of foods, especially fish and shellfish, as well as salads, soups, grilled vegetables and lemony-flavored dishes like veal piccata, while the richer, sémillon- and oak- influenced renditions welcome foods that have an inherent richness, such as swordfish, salmon, sturgeon, lobster or roast pork.
Given its versatility, it's no surprise that Dr. Richard Amerine, former chairman of the department of viticulture and enology at UC-Davis, calls Sauvignon Blanc "California's most consistently successful white wine."
Its success, however, doesn't guarantee its security in the vineyard. Sauvignon blanc costs just as much to grow as does chardonnay, yet the demand for and popularity of the latter is much greater. Therefore, as a crop, sauvignon blanc has a comparatively lower value to the grower - sometimes 25 to 35 percent less than chardonnay. In some years, however, the average price per ton for each variety is closer. In 2000, for example, sauvignon blanc brought $839 per ton and chardonnay, $895.
Acreage statistics show a decline in California sauvignon blanc plantings every year from 1990 to 1998, from a total of 12,600 bearing acres in 1990 to 9,400 bearing acres in 1998 - down about 25 percent.
On the bright side, there were 200 more bearing acres of the variety in 1999 than 1998, and non-bearing acreage - that which is planted, but not yet mature - has shown a significant increase as well. Indeed, non-bearing acreage has gone from 935 in 1996, to 1,490 in 1997, to 3,890 in 1999, a trend that underscores grower commitment to sauvignon blanc - for now.
Ironically, the stylistic possibilities of California Sauvignon Blanc also work against it.
New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is generally either lean, tart and herbaceous in the Marlborough style or fuller-bodied with a fruity, melon-pear flavor profile if it hails from the warmer Hawkes Bay appellation. Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé from the Loire Valley and white Graves also are made in fairly uniform styles that the wine shopper can determine by noting the place of origin on the label.
California, on the other hand, with its broad range of growing conditions and mix of warm and cool climates, produces Sauvignon Blanc in all the styles possible for the wine. There is also style diversity within each appellation. In Napa Valley, for example, one finds Sauvignons in the grassy-herbaceous Marlborough style (Voss); the fruity Hawkes Bay style (Duckhorn); the spicy style (Beaulieu Vineyard); and the oak-influenced style (Caymus).
Sauvignon Blanc, sometimes labeled Fumé Blanc (a term coined by Robert Mondavi in the late 1960s as a marketing tool) at the whim of the winery, is generally perceived as an assertive, grassy varietal. Yet how much grassiness will one find in a particular bottling? More than a few wine drinkers recall the days in the early 1990s when a great many California Sauvignon Blancs weren't just grassy, but downright green and weedy - and ever since they haven't had much fondness for the wine.
Some wineries address this concern with explanatory back labels, a commendable approach as long as the language is modified appropriately with each new vintage. In the free-wheeling environment of California winemaking, however, this isn't the universal practice. The consumer who wants to know what he or she is getting into with a previously unencountered Sauvignon Blanc needs more assistance.
As the previously noted Napa Valley examples demonstrate, dry California Sauvignon Blanc is produced in four principal styles. In the sections that follow, these four styles will be defined, and then sorted out by producer in a companion tasting report.
Most of the 90-plus wines profiled were tasted blind April 3rd in San Francisco by an esteemed panel of critics I assembled based on their extensive wine evaluation experience. The six tasters included myself; Dan Berger, wine writer, author and publisher of Vintage Experiences; Steve Heimoff, wine writer and West Coast editor of Wine Enthusiast; David Jones, wine writer, educator and Nob Hill Gazette columnist; Bob Thompson, California's senior wine writer and author of more than five definitive books on California wines; and Wilfred Wong, e-Commerce Cellarmaster for Beverages & More.
The top wines are ranked by number; wines accompanied only by tasting notes are listed in order of personal preference; wines listed alphabetically without description are very near to the quality levels of those that precede them, and are Highly Recommended or Recommended based on the panel's consensus.
The rankings are my own, with the panel sorting producers by style and assessing quality. Wines I evaluated outside the panel tasting are indicated by my initials (S.P.) following the description.
Point scores are not assigned because I believe the wines are best served by description and, where not described, by being listed in association with the described wines.
Grassy Style
By far, the largest California Sauvignon Blanc style category encompasses wines exhibiting the varietally inherent quality of grassiness or herbaceousness, some more intensely than others. As a general rule, the cooler the climate of the growing area, the more intense the grassiness of the wine, although other factors, such as soil, vineyard management and winemaking, certainly have an impact.
Sauvignon Blanc's inherent grassy-herbaceous character has been traced to a group of flavor compounds found in the grape variety called methoxypyrazines (technically 2-methoxy-3-isobutylpyrazine). One of these compounds, in particular, develops higher concentrations in sauvignon grapes grown in cooler climates, imparting to the wine's aroma characteristics described as resembling capsicum (think of freshly chopped jalapeños) or bell pepper and those green gooseberries.
Dry Creek Vineyard in Sonoma County is consistently one of the top producers of dramatic, expressive, grassy Sauvignon Blanc (all labeled as Fumé Blanc). Winemaker Jeff McBride explains that a grassy style of wine must be carefully orchestrated in the vineyard. "Definitive flavor depends on careful crop management and precise timing during harvest," he says. "Too much sun due to canopy thinning or leaf pulling, [or] too much time on the vine, and that assertive grassiness is lost."
David Stare, Dry Creek's proprietor, credits the Loire Valley as the winery's primary source of inspiration. As a young man traveling through the vineyards of France, Stare vowed that someday he would produce refreshing wines reminiscent of those from the Loire. Not surprisingly, a bold, assertive, Sancerre-like effort from the 1972 vintage brought the small winery to the attention of the critics and public alike. Sauvignon Blanc has been the winery's flagship wine ever since.
"Our wine celebrates the unique lemon grass character of the sauvignon blanc grape," Stare says. "We want to reverse the trend of subduing inherent varietal characteristics with extreme canopy manipulation or heavy-handed oak."
Loire Valley Sancerre also was the inspiration for Fred Brander, a fanatic proponent of the varietal. He worked the harvest at Dry Creek Vineyard in the early 1970s and learned how to make Sauvignon Blanc in that style from Stare, before starting his own Brander Vineyard in 1975 in Santa Barbara County. Estate-grown Sauvignon Blanc is his flagship wine, too. Of the four Sauvignon Blancs he produces, the Sauvignon Au Naturel is a limited production (fewer than 300 cases), top-of-the-line reserve that can make a high-acid, pipi du chat Sancerre seem tame by comparison. The wine is cold-fermented in stainless steel tanks, aged sur lie (on the lees or spent yeast cells) for 18 months and never encounters oak.
"The heavy toast flavor from new oak barrels just isn't right for Sauvignon Blanc," Brander says. He admits that no Sauvignon Blanc is too acidic for his palate, stressing the importance of the wine's structure.
Bryan Babcock uses a fair amount of oak for his Eleven Oaks Sauvignon Blanc from Santa Barbara County, regarded by some as a cult wine, but the fruit character is so intense that there is no masking of flavors or aromas. All of the fruit for the 1999 Eleven Oaks, sourced from vineyards in both the warmer, eastern portion of the Santa Ynez Valley and the much cooler Santa Maria Valley, was fermented in barrel, 20 percent of which were new French oak, the balance being seasoned French barrels. Additionally, 30 percent of the wine went through malolactic fermentation. Yet, the wine shows only a trace of caramel from the oak, with the aromas thoroughly rooted in the Sancerre school of gooseberry, pink grapefruit and lemon zest, and laser-point flavors that echo the nose with an embellishment of minerals.
Among the wineries producing crisp, grassy, New Zealand-style Sauvignons are St. Supéry (Winemaker Michael Scholz is from Australia, where the Kiwi style of Sauvignon is quite popular), Voss Vineyards (owned by Australia-based Samuel Smith & Son), Mason Cellars, all in Napa Valley, and Geyser Peak (more Australians involved in the winemaking here) and Canyon Road in Sonoma County.
Voss Winemaker Steve Fennell employs a technique he picked up from his predecessor, Alan Hoey, but frowned on by many other winemakers who believe it promotes early aging in white wines. In order to enhance fruit character in his Sauvignon Blanc, Fennell leaves most of the juice in contact with the grape skins for up to 24 hours prior to cold fermentation in stainless steel tanks. "In the 2000, it was about 80 percent skin contact. This technique allows us to harvest the fruit when it is just a bit underripe and still showing lots of natural, crisp acidity," he explains, noting that when sauvignon blanc is allowed too long on the vine, it becomes honeyed and loses its varietal definition.
"Depending on the vintage," Fennell says, "we'll go through the vineyards at least twice. In the first harvest, we'll bring in grapes at about 19 to 20 degrees Brix, and by the last pick, the Brix is up to 22 degrees. I'm aiming at a total of 20.5 to 21 degrees Brix. The harvesting is done at night or very early in the morning." Ripe for sauvignon blanc in central Napa Valley terms is 23 to 24 degrees Brix.
The result is a stunning Sauvignon Blanc that offers irresistible aromas of gooseberry and passion fruit reminiscent of the best Marlborough efforts, plus a rich, full palate attributable to its Napa Valley origins, enhanced by perfect acid balance.
Fennell obtains the fruit for this wine from two important sites - the Voss estate vineyard in Rutherford and a distinguished vineyard in the Oakville appellation - each of which bestows unique characteristics and complexity to the bottling. "Grown in a heavy clay soil, our estate fruit contributes intensely perfumed varietal aromas and flavors, while the Oakville grapes, grown on a much lighter, deeper clay loam, give the wine structure and a distinctive mineral note," Fennell says.
Michael Scholz gets his sauvignon from St. Supéry's Dollarhide Ranch estate vineyard, where the grapes are harvested mostly at night or in the early morning hours to maintain the delicate fruit flavors. He relies greatly on techniques popular in Australia for producing his Kiwi-style Sauvignon Blanc. Upon arrival at the winery, the grapes are crushed and pressed into chilled stainless steel tanks for settling. "We then rack the clean juice off and initiate fermentation in temperature-controlled storage," he explains. The long, cool fermentation allows for excellent flavor retention and the development of subtle fermentation nuances. Again, the wine sees no oak, and is bottled soon after harvest.
Randy Mason, until recently the general manager and winemaker at Napa Wine Company, believes in making wines that are true to their varietal character (he left the company to concentrate on his own Yountville-based label, which he and his wife, Megan, started in 1993). His Sauvignon Blanc is consistently one of the state's best. Using fruit obtained from the Oakville appellation, Mason employs some oak in contrast to his neighbors at St. Supéry and Voss. "For the 2000 Sauvignon Blanc," Mason says, "15 percent of the wine was fermented in all new French and American oak barrels. The wine was left on the lees for three and a half months to enhance the mouth-feel and to create a very light oak nose. The remaining 85 percent was cold-tank-fermented to accentuate the fruit in the nose and mouth." Mason's wine is 100 percent varietal.
Like Fennell at Voss, he leaves a large portion of the juice in contact with the skins for up to 24 hours to amplify the gooseberry aromas inherent in the variety, both for his Mason Cellars Sauvignon Blanc and the 2000 vintage Sauvignon Blanc he made at the Napa Wine Co.
Year after year, the frugal Sauvignon Blanc fan would be hard-pressed to find better values than the bottlings from Geyser Peak and its second label, Canyon Road. At $10 and $8 respectively, these wines are made in exactly the same way - cold-fermented and cold-stored in stainless steel tanks to retain the fresh fruit quality, touching no oak and eschewing secondary malolactic fermentation.
The only difference is appellation, which accounts for a nuance of distinction between the two brands. Geyser Peak Sauvignon Blanc bears a Sonoma County appellation, with the grapes coming from a number of vineyards and at varying maturity levels to increase the diversity of fruit characteristics. Canyon Road's bears a California appellation, with fruit sourced from a variety of mostly coastal vineyards and picked at varying degrees of ripeness for complexity. The Geyser Peak is crafted more in the style of a New Zealand Sauvignon from South Island, displaying classic gooseberry, grapefruit and grassy characteristics, while the Canyon Road exhibits more of a North Island profile of green apple and passion fruit, orange blossom and lemon grass. Both are always crisp and clean.
Tasting Notes
1. Voss Vineyards, 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley - $16: Forward, intense, uncompromisingly varietal nose of pink grapefruit, lemon zest, pear and passion fruit, freshly chopped green chiles and bell pepper with hints of gooseberry, white flowers and minerals. Mouth-filling with a smooth texture and rich entry, this boldly flavored, New Zealand-inspired effort is pure and clean on the palate, delivering lots of citrus and tropical fruit with an appealing grassy edge and excellent acidity. Lean, crisp, lemon-lime finish. (6,800 cases) - S.P. (The panel's bottle was corked; a second bottle tasted subsequently with
Dan Berger elicited unanimous acclaim.)
2. Mason Cellars, 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley - $16: Fragrant, appealing nose of garden herbs, grapefruit rind, lemon zest and ripe pear. Complex, zesty and moderately rich on the palate with good acidity, offering nectar-like pear fruit and subtle green herbs reminiscent of chopped watercress and parsley with hints of fig, melon and flint. (18,000 cases)
3. Geyser Peak, 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County - $10: Attractive, moderately grassy aromas of ripe melon, grapefruit and guava. Juicy, round and generous in the mouth with crisp acidity and pleasantly grassy flavors that echo the nose. Excellent value. (54,000 cases)
4. Dry Creek Vineyard, 2000 Fumé Blanc, Sonoma County - $13: Fresh, forward, enticing aromas of lemon grass, freshly chopped bell pepper and lemony citrus. Bright and lively on the palate with excellent acidity, offering flavors of lemon-lime citrus, white melon and guava enhanced by green herbs. (33,500 cases)
5. St. Supéry, 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley - $15: Upfront aromas of ripe melon, lime and freshly cut grass fairly burst from the glass. Intense and focused on the palate with flavors echoing the nose, especially green lime citrus. A wonderfully grassy wine with a crisp, grapefruit-like finish. (31,500 cases)
6. Robert Mondavi, 1998 Sauvignon Blanc, Stags Leap District - $18: A bold Sauvignon in the Sancerre model with aromas of asparagus, lemon grass, green olive and flint enhancing ripe citrus, melon and apricot fruit, graced with notes of oak. Intriguing texture that's both creamy and tart at the same time. Deep, intense flavors replicate the nose. (more than 1,000 cases) - S.P.
7. Canyon Road, 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, California - $8: Forward, varietal nose of lemon grass, passion fruit and orange blossom. The deep flavors replicate the nose and linger on the palate. A well-made, zesty Sauvignon Blanc at an incredible price. (27,200 cases)
8. Rancho Zabaco, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley - $16: Appealing scents of pink grapefruit and honeydew melon with subtle yet persistent grassiness and notes of mineral and flint. The flavors correspond and are accented with a slight toastiness from the barrel fermentation at cool temperatures. Medium-bodied, smooth and delicious. A joy to drink. (1,850 cases)
9. Babcock Vineyards, 1999 Eleven Oaks Sauvignon Blanc, Santa Barbara County - $23: Very grassy - almost extreme - aromas suggesting pink grapefruit, gooseberry, green apple, honeydew melon and jalapeño pepper. Much like an intense Sancerre, exhibiting mineral qualities on entry, a rich middle of melon and citrus with grassy tones, a touch of oak and excellent acidity. (1,211 cases)
10. The Ojai Vineyard, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Santa Barbara County - $15: One hundred percent sauvignon blanc entirely fermented in neutral oak barrels with no secondary malolactic fermentation, but 10 months lees contact. Very forward, herbaceous, pipi du chat aromas with citrus accents of freshly squeezed grapefruit. Mouth-filling with excellent acidity, offering intense, moderately rich, very expressive flavors. Reminiscent of the Loire Valley style. (510 cases)
Bernardus, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Monterey County - $15: Nose of fragrant green herbs, straw, lemon-lime citrus and a hint of fig. Rich and smooth with excellent acidity; a superbly balanced wine offering grassy, bell pepper herbaceousness and luscious citrus flavors. (6,586 cases) - S.P.
Chateau St. Jean, 1999 Fumé Blanc, Sonoma County - $13: Fresh aromas of lemon grass, white melon and peach are replicated on the palate with the addition of lemon zest, nectarine and freshly chopped tarragon. (22,000 cases)
Montevina, 2000 Fumé Blanc, California - $7: Bright, attractive, varietal nose of honeydew melon, grapefruit, chopped fresh asparagus and shy spice. Refreshingly dry and well balanced with melon notes and a spicy, slightly grassy finish. A lot of Sauvignon for the money. (10,000 cases)
Highly Recommended
Adler Fels, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River - ($14)
Brander, 1999 Sauvignon, Au Naturel, Santa Ynez Valley - ($30)
Buena Vista, 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, California - ($9)
Cakebread Cellars, 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley - ($17)
Dry Creek Vineyard, 1999 Estate Fumé Blanc, DCV 3, Dry Creek Valley - ($18)
Fetzer, 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, Echo Ridge, California - ($9)
Greenwood Ridge Vineyards, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Anderson Valley - ($14)
Hanna, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley - ($14)
Hanna, 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, Slusser Road Vineyard, Russian River Valley - ($16) S.P.
Navarro, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Cuvée 128, Mendocino - ($13)
Robert Pecota, 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, Monterey County - ($13)
Rochioli, 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley - ($22) S.P.
Shenandoah, 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, Estate, Amador County - ($10)
Whitehall Lane, 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley - ($15)
Recommended
Brander, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Santa Ynez Valley - ($12)
Davis Bynum, 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, Fumé Blanc, Shone Farm, Russian River Valley - ($15)
Ferrari-Carano, 2000 Fumé Blanc, Sonoma County - ($15) S.P.
Fiddlehead Cellars, 1998 Sauvignon Blanc, Santa Ynez Valley - ($20)
Kenwood, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County - ($12)
Robert Mondavi, 1998 Fumé Blanc Reserve, To Kalon Vineyard, Napa Valley - ($28)
Napa Wine Co., 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley - ($18)
Van Asperen, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley - ($12)
Fruity Style
Winemakers intent on rendering Sauvignon Blanc as a fruity wine, with little or none of the upfront grassy character, often blend in one or more other white varieties to soften the punch. The usual partner is sémillon, which adds texture and roundness as well as fresh fig and/or melon-like fruit notes to the blend. Duckhorn and Wente, for example, blend in about 25 percent of the variety. Viognier is increasingly being used for this purpose, too; among its proponents are Araujo, Iron Horse and Kendall-Jackson. Some wineries even make use of small amounts of chardonnay (Kendall-Jackson), pinot gris (Sterling), pinot blanc (Robert Mondavi Coastal), muscat (Freestone) or malvasia bianca (Sterling) to tame the assertive sauvignon blanc grape.
Although its first Sauvignon Blanc from the 1982 vintage was 100-percent varietal, Duckhorn Vineyards has since blended in at least 20 percent sémillon in every vintage to create its house style. "We want to avoid an herbaceous character in our Sauvignon Blanc, so we select fruit that is more citrus-like at full maturity," says co-proprietor Dan Duckhorn. "Stylistically, we blend for aging potential. The final blend is almost always 75 percent sauvignon blanc with the balance comprised of sémillon, which diminishes the inherent tartness of the sauvignon. We don't initiate malolactic fermentation, as the addition of sémillon contributes texture and viscosity." Both varieties grow in Duckhorn's estate vineyard, which, Duckhorn asserts, "is ideally suited to them because of its deep, rich, sandy-loam soil profile and our practice of minimal irrigation."
In some cases, it takes little or no sémillon in the blend to turn out a fruit-forward, soft Sauvignon Blanc. Pepi Winery, for example, a pioneer winery for the varietal in Napa Valley, seeks out North Coast vineyard sites that deliver fully ripened sauvignon fruit for its California appellation "Two Heart" Sauvignon Blanc. For the 1999 version, Winemaker Chris Johnson shopped around in four valleys - Napa, Alexander, Russian River and Suisun - to get just the right mix to achieve the honeysuckle, mango and pear tones that define this wine. A subtle enhancement of ripe fig comes from 5 percent sémillon blended in for complexity.
Cain Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc, labeled Cain Musqué, is made by Christopher Howell in a fruity style entirely from sauvignon musqué, a clone of sauvignon blanc. "The musqué clone offers more aromas of flowers and fruit," Howell explains, "and less of bell pepper and asparagus than the more common version of sauvignon grown in California. This [trait] allows us to pick the grapes when they're highly aromatic and finish the wine in a crisp, dry style."
The grapes for the Cain Musqué come from the Ventana Vineyard in Arroyo Seco (Monterey County), where Howell believes the climate and soils are admirably suited to growing the clone. "The cold winds of Monterey bring out the varietal intensity of the sauvignon fruit," he says, "while the musqué keeps the herbaceous components in check and emphasizes the perfumes of nectarine and pink grapefruit."
Some wineries, such as Flora Springs, Robert Mondavi and Stags Leap Wine Cellars, for example, use sauvignon musqué as a Sauvignon Blanc blending component.
Françoise Peschon, Araujo Estates' winemaker, created a superb, but hard-to-find example of fruity-style Sauvignon Blanc from the 1999 vintage by blending Eisele Vineyard sauvignon musqué (62%), sauvignon blanc (28%) and viognier (10%), and employing an innovative fermentation and aging technique. Instead of fermenting in large stainless steel tanks, Peschon put 78 percent of the wine into barrel-size stainless steel drums to ferment, while the remaining 22 percent was fermented in new French oak barrels. Following fermentation, the wine was aged on its lees for six months in both kinds of vessels. This tandem technique permitted all the wine to take on a plush, silky texture from contact with the lees. What is more, the final blend retained a crisp, fresh fruit quality, thanks to the role played by the stainless steel-aged portion, nicely balanced by the complexity and richness of the oak-treated portion. Peschon says the wine's rich, ripe fruit character is a gift from the growing season.
Tasting Notes
1. Araujo Estate, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Eisele Vineyard, Napa Valley - $28: Forward, attractive aromas of honeydew melon, white peach, mango and a hint of fresh straw. Fleshy and powerful on the palate with good acidity; deep, extracted flavors of melon and tropical fruit. Delivers lots of drama and substance, and is priced accordingly. (512 cases)
2. Duckhorn, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley - $20: Pleasant aromas of lemon citrus, lime zest, melon, pear, mango and apricot accented by honeysuckle, minerals and just a hint of green grass. Juicy and well balanced with bright acidity and expressive, fruity flavors that replicate the nose; rich, lingering finish. Blended with 25% sémillon. (14,889 cases) - S.P.
3. Jepson Vineyards, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Estate Select, Mendocino County - $11: Attractive, fruity scents of ripe peach and citrus plus a subtle green herb note. Bright, lively flavors of citrus, ripe honeydew melon and peach display excellent acidity. (6,300 cases)
4. Cain Musqué, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Ventana Vineyard, Monterey - $20: Pleasant perfume of nectarine and pink grapefruit accented by notes of freshly cut hay and a flinty, mineral component. Complex flavors of citrus and tropical fruit, light grassiness and a light touch of vanilla; somewhat tart with crisp acidity. Reminiscent of a fine Sancerre; better paired with seafood than sipped alone. (2,400 cases) - S.P.
Barnwood, 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, Santa Barbara County - $14: Pretty pear-melon aromas with just the slightest hint of green grass. Richly textured with bold flavors that echo the nose accented by subtle oak tones. Harmonious and delicious. (3,700 cases) - S.P.
Flora Springs, 1999 Soliloquy, Napa Valley - $20: Made from old-vine sauvignon blanc and newer plantings of sauvignon musqué. An elegant wine with a nose of pear nectar and subtle lemon grass, which are echoed in the deep flavors. Luscious and round with excellent acidity and a spicy citrus finish. (1,000 cases) - S.P.
Recommended
Beaulieu Vineyard, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Coastal, California - ($10)
Chateau Potelle, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley - ($14)
Crystal Valley Cellars, 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, Mohr-Fry Vineyards - ($13)
Groth, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley - ($14) S.P.
Grgich Hills, 1998 Fumé Blanc, Napa Valley - ($18)
Handley Cellars, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Handley Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley - ($14)
Huntington Cellars, 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, Earthquake, Napa Valley - ($12)
Kendall-Jackson, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Vintners Reserve, California - ($10)
Lorenza-Lake Winery, 1999 "Blockheadia Ringnosi" Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley - ($18) S.P.
Liparita, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley - ($18)
Robert Mondavi, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Coastal, California - ($12) S.P.
Pepi Winery, 1999 "Two Heart Canopy" Sauvignon Blanc, North Coast - ($12) S.P.
Sterling, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, North Coast - ($12) S.P.
Villa Mt. Eden, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Coastal, Central Coast - ($10)
Wente, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Central Coast - ($10)
Spicy Style
The spiciness exhibited by Sauvignons in this category includes such elements as white pepper, anise, clove and cinnamon, which are indicative of terroir, and almond, hazelnut, nutmeg, light toast, toasted marshmallow and vanilla bean, which are imparted by the wine's restrained oak treatment, if any.
Winemaker Mia Kline employs a hands-off approach - and the same steel-drum fermentation and aging technique as Peschon at Araujo - to create a spicy-style Sauvignon Blanc for her Selene label using Carneros fruit from the Hyde Vineyard. "Grapes from this vineyard require almost no manipulations," she explains. "No acid additions, no malolactic and no fining."
Mike Draxton used yet another approach for his spicy 1999 Alexander Valley Sauvignon Blanc. "The grapes were harvested at 22 degrees Brix to retain stronger varietal character," he explains. The fruit was then crushed and pressed into stainless steel fermenters; halfway through fermentation, 10 percent of the pressing was drained into new and used French oak barrels. This portion was left in barrel for six months, then blended back into the stainless steel for bottling. "I think the oak component adds fullness to the palate," Draxton says, "without becoming too pronounced in the aroma or flavors."
Tasting Notes
1. Selene, 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, Hyde Vineyard, Carneros - $24: Complex nose of spicy lemon curd, anise, melon, peach and tangerine accented by notes of jasmine and light toast. Rich and flashy on the palate delivering spicy flavors that echo the nose. (1,800 cases)
2. Simi, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County - $13: Fresh citrus, melon and allspice aromas lead to similar flavors that show complexity and depth. Round and creamy with good, crisp acids and a long finish. (11,000 cases)
3. Robert Mondavi, 1998 Fumé Blanc, To-Kalon Vineyard I Block, Napa Valley - $50: Forward, fragrant aromas of exotic spices, lemony citrus, honey and white flowers. The opulent flavors echo the aromas and are lifted by bright acidity. (455 cases)
Kenwood, 1998 Sauvignon Blanc, Reserve, Sonoma County - $15: Vanilla-tinged nose of spicy peach and citrus, plus a note of jasmine. Elegant and moderately rich with good acidity, serving up generous peach and citrus flavors and a round, creamy finish. (2,910 cases)
Baileyana, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, San Luis Obispo County - $13: Fresh, mildly spicy nose of apple-pear fruit and sweet peas. Crisp and lively in the mouth with similar flavors that remain vibrant through the long finish. (1,975 cases)
Recommended
Beaulieu Vineyard, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley - ($11)
Draxton Cellars, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Alexander Valley - ($14)
Eos, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Paso Robles - ($14)
Eos, 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, Estate, Reserve Fumé Blanc, Paso Robles - ($19)
Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley - ($20) S.P.
Oak-Influenced Style
Many of the wines in this category are patterned after white Graves, and are the product of oak barrel fermentation, secondary malolactic fermentation and lees stirring. Sémillon is usually blended in, as well, and the grapes of both varieties are harvested fully ripe. The best wines of this style are harmonious and fragrant with a rich, creamy texture and complex flavors. Less successful are those that are overwhelmed by the oak treatment - where the winemaker is trying to create a beverage by technique instead of allowing the fruit to speak.
Chalk Hill Winemaker Bill Knuttel admits he is making a Sauvignon Blanc in the style of Chardonnay. "Our winemaking protocol is a combination of New and Old World methods," he explains. "About half of the settled juice is racked directly to barrels for fermentation with natural yeast, while the other half is fermented in tank with cultured yeast to maximize varietal aromas. All of the new wine is aged in oak and stirred biweekly until a native malolactic fermentation is complete, after which the lees are stirred monthly. The result is a luscious, creamy wine with mouth-filling flavors."
A more restrained approach is that adopted by Winemaker Signe Zoller at Meridian Vineyards. "This is a wine that I have to be careful not to over-make," she says of her Sauvignon Blanc, "because I'm starting with fruit that essentially tastes how I want the finished wine to taste. A ripe, just-picked sauvignon blanc grape has the distinctive varietal characters of the wine - ripe melons and minerals."
Sixty percent of the 1999 Meridian Sauvignon Blanc was barrel fermented in mostly French oak. "I then let it rest in the barrel for three months," Zoller continues. "This short stint gave the wine a nuance of toasty aromas and flavors without masking the essence of the varietal. Blending trials with sémillon and chardonnay led me to blend in 18 percent chardonnay to get a luscious richness and texture while retaining the lovely varietal character of the sauvignon blanc. In some years, the sémillon proves a better blender.
Tasting Notes
1. Dry Creek Vineyard, 1999 Reserve Fumé Blanc, Dry Creek Valley - $18: Distinctive, attractive nose of white pepper, smoke, apricot and lemon grass with grassy undertones. Generous on the palate with excellent acidity, offering rich, delicious flavors of lemon tart, white pepper, toasted hazelnuts and vanilla. Fine integration of oak. (4,500 cases)
2. Chateau St. Jean, 1999 Fumé Blanc, La Petite Etoile Vineyard, Russian River Valley - $20: Expressive nose of grapefruit, freshly cut grass and vanilla. A rich citrus entry is followed by tropical fruit and honeydew melon, accented by mineral and grassy notes. (2,900 cases)
3. Gainey, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Limited Selection, Santa Ynez Valley - $22: Pleasant, appealing scents of ripe pear, honeydew melon and fig mingle with a touch of hay and light mint, accented by subtle smoke and toast. Round and fleshy on the palate with complex flavors that echo the nose, especially pear and fig. Blended with 13% sémillon, which imparts elegance and roundness. (2,074 cases) - S.P.
Matanzas Creek, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County - $22: Blended with 11% sémillon, this partially barrel-fermented (63%) effort exhibits toasty, mildly herbaceous aromas of ripe honeydew melon and lemon, plus a hint of vanilla. Vibrant and fruity on the palate, showing layers of citrus, white melon and pear fruit, notes of dried hay and basil with a hint of French oak. (9,800 cases) - S.P.
Caymus, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley - $18: Toasty, spicy nose of ripe peach and citrus, a hint of grass and vanilla overtones. Blended with 10% chardonnay, this medium- to full-bodied rendering offers rich, peachy, lemony, green apple flavors enhanced by a grassy note, along with lots of toasty oak. (17,000 cases) - S.P.
Chateau Souverain, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Alexander Valley - $12: Slightly earthy nose of grapefruit, ripe melon, freshly cut grass and a hint of vanilla. Moderately rich and fleshy, offering tropical fruit, melon, lime, mineral and a bit of toasty oak, along with crisp acidity. (14,500 cases)
Highly Recommended
Freestone, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc (von Strasser Wine Co.), Napa Valley - ($13)
Recommended
Chalk Hill, 1998 Sauvignon Blanc, Estate, Chalk Hill - ($29)
Ferrari-Carano, 1999 Fumé Blanc, Reserve, Sonoma County - ($18) S.P.
Meridian, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, California - ($8)
St. Clement, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley - ($13)
Simi, 1998 Reserve Sendal, Sonoma County - ($20)
Rodney Strong, 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Estate, Charlotte's Home - ($12)
Of all the white wines produced in California, Sauvignon Blanc is the most fascinating for the many faces it displays and the great value it offers the wine lover. No longer poor man's Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc has come into its own thanks to its versatility and the pleasure it brings to sipping and the table. As the varietal grows in popularity, it's not unreasonable to believe that more winemakers will approach the wine with the same enthusiasm currently shown by Sauvignon Blanc's strongest proponents in California.
Based in San Francisco, Contributing Editor Steve Pitcher is vice president of the Vintners Club and president of the Bay Area chapter of the German Wine Society. He can be reached via e-mail at wine2words@aol.com.
The Mendocino Cooperage
The Wine News would like to thank Mendocino Cooperage for providing the oak barrel photographed for this article.
Established in 1993 in Hopland, California, Mendocino Cooperage offers three designations of American oak: Northern (from Minnesota), Ozark (Missouri) and Appalachian (Pennsylvania and West Virginia). It also crafts barrels from French oak sourced from 200-year-old forests in central France -- Allier, Tronçais and Vosges -- as well as from oak grown in Central and Northeastern Hungary. All oak for staves and heading is split (French and Hungarian) or quarter-sawn (American) from select trees, stacked to the cooper's specifications for uniform drying, then seasoned slowly and naturally for a minimum of 24 months.
In 1998, Mendocino Cooperage completed a state-of-the-art, 27,000-square-foot facility in Hopland. The cooperage custom-makes barrels for wineries such as Beringer, Bonterra, Fetzer, Jekel and Meridian.
