Wine Reviews from Wine News
tasters' choice selections
96 Joseph Drouhin, 2003 Grands-Echezeaux
Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru, Burgundy
Bright red cherry hue. Somewhat shy aromas of black cherry, rose petals, dried underbrush and gravel with a note of bacon fat. Intense but not overwrought flavors of black currant, espresso, minerals and mocha. Bushels of cherries resonate in the artfully long close. $207 / 23 imported cases
95 Beaulieu Vineyard, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Georges de Latour Private Reserve, Napa Valley
Purple-black hue. Direct, dusty aromas of mixed berries, mocha and cedar make for a tight, nervy nose. Layered, chalky, youthful flavors of brambly blackberry, tobacco, chocolate and well-meshed wood. Chocolate and dust highlight the smooth finish. $95 / 9,500 cases
94 J. Moreau & Fils, 2002 Vaillons
Chablis Premier Cru, France
Medium yellow hue. Prototypical Chablis aromas of lemon, lime and damp stone have a chalky verve. Racy, clean flavors of lime peel and gravel convey nuance, as opposed to power. Lingering close features notes of lime and chalk. $32 / 1,500 cases
best value selections
88 Nobilo, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough, New Zealand
Pale ivory hue. Forward lime scents with a whiff of tomato leaf. Fresh, lively and packed with citrus flavors and shrill, youthful acidity. Crisp, lengthy close. $12 / 200,000 cases
87 Alice White, 2005 Chardonnay
South Eastern Australia
White gold hue. Fresh aromas of Golden Delicious apple and lemon peel with a hint of butter. Clean flavors of honeydew melon and butterscotch. Sweet finish. $7 / 150,000 imported cases
87 Andrew Peace, 2004 Masterpeace Chardonnay
South Eastern Australia
Gold hue. Honeyed scents of apricot, poached pear and white flowers. Quite ripe flavors of pineapple and beeswax have just enough acidity to keep them in balance. Soft close loaded with fruit. $9 / 5,000 imported cases
publisher's pick
94 Felton Road, 2004 Pinot Noir
Block 5, Central Otago, New Zealand
Reflective purple hue. Fresh scents of plum, cream and graphite. This tightly wound Pinot slowly opens to juicy flavors of plum, cherry and minerals. A slight earthiness, coupled with new oak, linger in the finish. This Pinot is all about fruit and structure, and displays great aging potential. $62 / 98 imported cases
California
Chardonnay
91 Beringer, 2004 Chardonnay
Private Reserve, Napa Valley
Ample honey notes lead to forward aromas of pineapple, white grapefruit, oak char and dusty ash. Thick flavors of mango, peach, vanilla, bee pollen and oak. Creamy close marked by pencil lead. $35
89 Byron, 2003 Chardonnay
Santa Maria Valley
Dusty scents of lime peel, lemon and oak. Sweet, juicy flavors of stone fruit, pineapple and bee pollen. Finishes with a citrusy tang. $25
88 Byron, 2002 Chardonnay
Nielson Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley
Minty fresh aromas of melon, citrus peel and oak. Tight flavors of apricot and apple with an uplifting honey note. Intensely rich close. $35
90 Clos Pegase, 2004 Chardonnay
Mitsuko's Vineyard, Carneros, Napa Valley
Buttery aromas of apricot, white peach, pineapple and pecan. Oily flavors of tropical fruit, honey, lots of butter and a stave of oak. Lingering, toasty finish. $21
86 Frog's Leap, 2004 Chardonnay
Napa Valley
Subtle scents of pear and minerals. Slightly herbal green apple flavors. Short close picks up the apple tartness. $24
90 Girard, 2004 Chardonnay
Russian River Valley
Lean aromas of green apple, melon and dust. Flavors of pineapple, stone fruit and cantaloupe are lusher than suggested by the nose. Clean finish features brown sugar. $20
87 Morgan, 2004 Chardonnay
Double L Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands
Floral aromas of honeydew melon and beeswax. Leanish flavors of apple and minerals. A fleeting suggestion of butterscotch in the finish. $35
87 Morgan, 2004 Chardonnay
Rosella's Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands
Fresh aromas of green apple, mango and honey. Cleansing apple flavors with a hint of butterscotch. Crisp, racy close. $35
90 Robert Mondavi, 2003 Chardonnay
Reserve, Carneros
Integrated aromas of candied pineapple, butter, clove and honey. Rich, focused flavors of apricot, lemon cream, butterscotch and vanilla. Long, honeyed finish. $35
86 Rodney Strong, 2004 Chardonnay
Sonoma County
Mixed aromas of peach, pear and apple. Balanced, juicy pear and apple flavors with tempered acidity. Soft finish. $15
90 Taz, 2004 Chardonnay
Santa Barbara County
Fresh oak and peach scents. Supple and ripe with butterscotch and white peach flavors. Lengthy, creamy close with lingering toasted oak notes. $20
86 Sebastiani, 2004 Chardonnay
Sonoma County
Attractive white peach, vanilla and coconut aromas. Clean, straightforward Chardonnay flavors of peach and sliced apple. Sweet finish. $13
87 Stuhlmuller Vineyards, 2004 Chardonnay
Alexander Valley
Aromas of pineapple and just the right amount of oak. Apple and honey flavors are sprightlier than suggested by the nose. Tangy close. $23
85 Beringer, 2004 Chardonnay
Napa Valley
$16
82 Fusée, 2004 Chardonnay
California
- $6
84 Hayman Hill, 2004 Chardonnay
Reserve Selection, Russian River Valley
- $14
Cabernet & Blends
90 Chateau St. Jean, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Sonoma County
Reserved, well-integrated aromas of date, dried tobacco and smoke. Concentrated flavors of blackberry and graphite are quite earthy. Tight, tooth-coating finish. $27
90 Clos du Bois, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserve, Alexander Valley
Piercing aromas of brambly blackberry, dust and cedar. Citrusy-fresh flavors of blackberry, pencil shavings and vanillin oak. Bright, racy close. $22
91 Clos Pegase, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Unfiltered, Napa Valley
Big, earthy aromas of fig, pencil and dried tobacco. Silky flavors of orange peel, plum and mocha with a vanilla note. Creamy finish is loaded with fruit. $33
88 Dry Creek Vineyard, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Dry Creek Valley
Stewed aromas of dust and wood with the fruit in the background. Flavors of tart blackberry, dusty mocha and earth are friendlier than suggested by the nose. Cedary close. $21
94 Flora Springs, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
25th Anniversary, Napa Valley
Very ripe, exotic aromas of date, blueberry, chocolate and Pedro Ximenez Sherry. Flavors of fig, plum, sweetened coffee and minerals are more subdued than suggested by the nose. A cherry pit raciness marks the finish. $150
91 Flora Springs, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Brambly aromas of orange peel, cherry, cedar and dried leaves. Concentrated flavors of blackberry, pencil lead and dusty stone. Youthful close ends on a fig note. $30
86 Frei Brothers, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserve, Alexander Valley
Shy scents of plum, dust and chocolate. Black fruit and earth flavors are a bit thin. Tart finish. $24
88 Geyser Peak, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserve, Alexander Valley
Warm aromas of root beer, eucalyptus and just-cut lumber. Picks up some in the mouth with flavors of red berries, citrus, cedar, earth and pistachio. Dry, tooth-coating close. $46
92 Geyser Peak, 2002 Meritage
Alexander Valley
Fresh aromas of plum, blueberry, vanilla, pencil and campfire. Silky, fleshy flavors of ripe black fruit and minerals. A lengthy, well-oaked finish. $49
93 Icaria Creek, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Alexander Valley
Reserved aromas of plum, cranberry, cedar, dust and graphite. Stable tannins frame balanced flavors of cherry, mocha and vanillin oak. Bushels of red fruit in the racy close. $38
92 J. Lohr, 2001 Cuvée Pau
Paso Robles
Sweet scents of ripe plum, chocolate and orange rind. Supple and rich with cherry-chocolate flavors and the zing of new oak punctuating the finish. $50
92 Kenwood, 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon
Artist Series, Sonoma County
Subtle aromas of blackberry, orange peel, dried tobacco and black pepper. Gripping flavors of cherry, plum, minerals and bittersweet chocolate. Laser-like, earthy close. $70
88 Louis M. Martini, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserve, Napa Valley
Pleasantly reserved aromas of cola nut, mint and earth. Fresh flavors of plum, tobacco and smoke. Minerally finish. $24
90 Merryvale, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Beckstoffer Vnyds, Vineyard X, Oakville
An initial whiff of coconut yields to serious aromas of black currant, pencil, anise and smoke. Concentrated flavors of black fruit, redwood and spicy cedar. Long, peppery close. $75
92 Merryvale, 2002 Profile
Napa Valley
Forward aromas of stewed plum and maraschino cherry with a pungent, mushroom-like note. Crisp, racy red fruit, cedar and clove flavors. Needs time; fruit is somewhat tight and unforgiving right now. Great potential. $100
91 M. Cosentino, 2002 M. Coz
Napa Valley
Mixed aromas of cherry, espresso and mocha. Creamy black cherry flavors with fine-grain tannins and crisp acidity. Lingering toasted oak and mineral flavors in the finish. $125
90 Miner, 2002 The Oracle
Napa Valley
A ripe bouquet of cherry, resin, mint and pencil. Creamy cherry flavors with mocha and oak accents. Sweet, balanced finish with a lick of mocha. $60
90 Ortman Family, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Damp aromas of blackberry and cedar. A different wine emerges in the mouth with balanced, vibrant flavors of orange peel, blackberry, earth and bittersweet chocolate. More citrus and chocolate in the close. $35
89 Paradise Ridge, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Rockpile Vineyard, Sonoma County
Dusty aromas of cranberry, cedar and char. Juicy, chalky flavors of plum, minerals and semisweet chocolate. Tobacco and earth mark the close. $35
90 Terra Valentine, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley
Cedary aromas of blackberry, citrus and dusty stone. Intensely earthy flavors of plum, coffee grounds and bittersweet chocolate. Tangy, mocha-laced finish. $35
91 J. Lohr, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Carol's Vineyard, Napa Valley
Pungent aromas of cranberry, red meat and smoke. Flavors of cassis, fig, chocolate-covered coconut and vanillin oak make for a lively mouthful. Lots of cherry in the lengthy close. $40
92 Robert Mondavi , 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserve, Napa Valley
A sweet ripeness sneaks into otherwise lean aromas of black cherry, pencil, campfire and cedar. Intense flavors of mixed berries, mocha and oak. Lengthy finish shows a chocolate theme. $125
91 Rubicon Estate, 2002 Cask Cabernet
Rutherford
Warm, loamy aromas of raspberry, red berries, smoke and cigar box. Fresh, raspy flavors of plum, cherry, bittersweet chocolate and mint. Earthy finish concludes on a treacle note. $65
88 Sbragia Family, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Monte Rosso Vineyard, Sonoma Valley
Dusty scents of cranberry, menthol and cedar sweeten up a bit with air. Minerally flavors of tart blackberry, plum and vanilla. Spicy close. $50
91 Sbragia Family, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Rancho Del Oso, Howell Mtn, Napa Valley
Lean, leathery aromas of cherry, fig, pecan, white pepper and tobacco. Inky texture frames significant flavors of date, espresso and tobacco. Sweet, mineral-infused finish. $75
93 Silverado, 2002 Solo Cabernet Sauvignon
Stags Leap District, Napa Valley
Aggressive aromas of cherry, plum, dust, menthol and tobacco with an interesting Sherry note. Sweet, concentrated, earthy flavors of cherry, raisin, mint and oak are delivered by way of a velvety texture. Long, chalky close. $75
92 Silverado , 2002 Limited Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Brambly aromas of plum compote, cedar, brown sugar and pencil. Soft, sweet flavors of raspberry liqueur, mocha, tea, clove and redwood. Lively finish is both creamy and spicy. $100
90 Simi, 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserve, Alexander Valley
Slow-to-open aromas of citrus, damp stone, dust and oak. Well-meshed flavors of cherry, char, pencil and cedar. Orange peel and earth dress up the close. $60
94 Spottswoode, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Estate Vineyard, Napa Valley
Deep aromas of black currant, cherry, violets, slate, mint and vanillin oak with pleasant floral notes. Intense, silky flavors of cherry, plum, semisweet chocolate, tobacco and earth with more developing each minute. Finish oozes blueberry. $110
91 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Cask 23, Napa Valley
Spicy, if somewhat spare aromas of plum, pencil, tobacco and brown sugar. Vibrant flavors of cherry, citrus rind, minerals, semisweet chocolate and tea. Cedar and redwood in the close. $150
90 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Fay, Napa Valley
Slightly pungent and herbal scents of raspberry, citrus and cedar. Soft, woody flavors of tart red fruit, orange and earth possess very good structure. Lingering finish shows cedar notes. $80
89 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
SLV, Napa Valley
Shy aromas of brambly red fruit, damp stone and minerals. Lean flavors of raspberry, citrus and mocha with pleasing vanillin oak notes. Drying close. $110
91 Sterling Vineyards, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserve, Napa Valley
Warm aromas of black cherry, wet gravel and cedar box with lots of earthy notes. Dry flavors of plum, cherry, fruitcake, mocha and tobacco. Soft finish sports redwood. $75
92 ZD Wines, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserve, Napa Valley
Pungent aromas of brambly berries, cherry, chocolate chip and dust. A big mouthful of blackberry syrup, plum, milk chocolate and coffee ground flavors. Rich, chocolaty close. $115
Pinot Noir
90 Arista, 2003 Pinot Noir
Ferrington Vineyard, Anderson Valley
Forward scents of stewed plum, rhubarb, damp stone and oak. Creamy flavors of racy red berry, plum, earth and cedar. Minty finish. $50
90 Arista, 2003 Pinot Noir
Harper's Rest, Russian River Valley
Warm aromas of stewed plum, strawberry, dust and molasses. Well-defined flavors of cherry compote, coffee, tea and vanillin oak. Cherry, mocha and minerals highlight the close. $35
92 Arista, 2003 Pinot Noir
Mononi Vineyard, Russian River Valley
Warm aromas of cranberry, plum, maple and mocha are minty fresh. Bright, chalky flavors of cherry, brambly plum, coffee and oak. Thick, spicy finish. $50
89 Arista, 2003 Pinot Noir
Toboni Vineyard, Russian River Valley
Subtle scents of plum, orange peel, mint and clove. Flavors of blackberry, coffee, cedar and fresh herbs. Youthful close. $50
91 Bernardus, 2003 Pinot Noir
Rosella's Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands
Well-extracted aromas of cherry, plum, menthol, forest floor and vanillin oak. Big, rich, ripe flavors of cherry, blackberry, oak char and molasses. Long finish steeped in sweetened coffee. $50
90 Dutton Goldfield, 2003 Pinot Noir
Dutton Ranch, Russian River Valley
Warm, herbal aromas of boysenberry, cherry, clove and resin. Thick, juicy flavors of raspberry, plum, cedar and coffee. Bold, fruit-driven finish. $35
91 Dutton Goldfield, 2003 Pinot Noir
Devil's Gulch Vineyard, Marin County
Heady aromas of blackberry, plum, oak and cola nut. Youthful flavors of cherry, plum and earth have an almost Zin-like texture. Lingering dustiness. $48
89 Marimar Estate, 2003 Pinot Noir
Don Miguel Vnyd, Earthquake Block, RRV
Sweetly perfumed aromas of cherry, mocha, dried tobacco and lots of earth. Spicy flavors of cranberry, coffee grounds and white pepper. Zesty close. $42
91 Merry Edwards, 2003 Pinot Noir
Windsor Gardens, Russian River Valley
Warm, dusty aromas of cherry, plum, fig, chocolate and espresso. Tooth-coating, gritty flavors of blackberry, coffee and chocolate. Youthful, fruit-laden finish. $57
93 Merry Edwards, 2003 Pinot Noir
Sonoma Coast
Enticing aromas of wild cherry, cranberry and brown sugar with a whiff of bell pepper. Lush flavors of cherry, raspberry and cedar have great balance. Chocolate brightens the finish. $29
88 Morgan, 2004 Pinot Noir
Twelve Clones, Santa Lucia Highlands
Scents of wild cherry, blackberry and roasted coffee bean. Tangy flavors of raspberry, charred oak and menthol. Smoky close. $30
Zinfandel
87 Alderbrook, 2003 Zinfandel
Reserve, Dry Creek Valley
Pungent aromas of cranberry, rhubarb and dried tobacco. Crisp flavors of raspberry and oak spice. Red fruit and redwood notes emerge in the close. $34
90 Dry Creek Vineyard, 2003 Heritage Zinfandel
Sonoma County
Ripe aromas of blackberry jam, cherry, smoke and new oak. Big, zingy flavors of plum, earth, cedar and mocha. Crisp, spicy finish. $15
90 Edizione Pennino, 2003 Zinfandel
Rutherford, Napa Valley
Big aromas of maple, peppermint, fruit cake and walnut jettison the fruit to the background. Youthful flavors of raspberry, smoke, cinnamon and oak char. Toasted coconut emerges in the close. $38
86 Greg Norman, 2003 Zinfandel
Lake County
Musky aromas of rhubarb, stewed fruit and forest floor. Syrupy flavors of boysenberry, plum and ample oak. Tooth-sticking finish. $15
87 Kenwood, 2003 Zinfandel
Reserve, Sonoma County
Jammy aromas of plum, mulberry and black pepper have Petite Sirah-like power. Spicy flavors of wild cherry, tobacco, charcoal and pencil. Sweet close. $20
93 Paradise Ridge, 2003 Zinfandel
Hoenselaars Vineyard, Russian River Valley
Very intense aromas of plum, blueberry, coffee, new oak and thistle. Treacly sweet, multilayered flavors of blackberry, licorice, German chocolate cake, oak and vanilla. Plush, well-evolved finish. $30
91 Rosenblum Cellars, 2003 Zinfandel
Annett's Reserve, Redwood Valley
Smoky aromas of stewed plum, boysenberry syrup, cedar and mint. Silky flavors of chocolate-covered orange peel, blueberry and vanillin oak. Sweet, minerally close. $30
92 Rosenblum Cellars, 2003 Zinfandel
Eagle Point Vineyard, Mendocino County
Huge aromas of blackberry, plum, coconut, bittersweet chocolate, nutmeg and mint make clear that this is a fruit bomb. Polished flavors of blueberry, milk chocolate and coconut. Chocolate-laced finish. $28
91 Rosenblum Cellars, 2003 Zinfandel
Lyons Reserve, Napa Valley
Deftly mixed aromas of blackberry, graphite, maple and coconut. Forward flavors of plum, cherry, treacle and pencil are quite rich. Lingering chocolate sweetness in the close. $40
90 SpenceroRoloson, 2003 Zinfandel
Madder Lake Vineyard, Clear Lake
Dusty aromas of plum, blackberry and mint show the warmth of alcohol. Minerally flavors of ripe blueberry, mocha, vanillin oak and forest floor. Luscious finish features a chocolate cake note. $30
88 Vin Nostro, 2003 Zinfandel
Cellar Selection, Dry Creek Valley
Heady aromas of blackberry, fruit cake, pencil shavings and earth. Flavors of plum, citrus and tobacco. Molasses notes thicken the close. $29
Australia
Whites
86 Banrock Station, 2005 Chardonnay
South Eastern Australia
Sweet aromas of pineapple, pear and fruit cocktail. Flavors of apricot and apple. Continued fruitiness in the sweet close. $7
86 Greg Norman, 2004 Chardonnay
Victoria
Aromas of pineapple and apricot are a bit underripe. Tart flavors of lemon-lime and clove. Peach nectar notes sweeten up the finish. $13
87 Long Flat, 2004 Sauvignon Blanc
Adelaide Hills
Fresh, minty aromas of apple, lemon and slate. Balanced flavors of pear, orange peel and a touch of herbs. Sweet-tart finish. $13
Shiraz
88 Two Hands, 2004 Angels Share Shiraz
McLaren Vale
Warm, dusty scents of blueberry, redwood and mocha with a slight roasted note. Tangy flavors of black cherry, mulberry and espresso. Earthy, peppery close. $25
87 Two Hands, 2004 Bad Impersonator Shiraz
Single Vineyard, Barossa Valley
Minty aromas of red berry, baking spice and bittersweet chocolate. Citrusy acidity enlivens flavors of mixed berries and minerals. Racy close has a metallic bite. $45
90 Two Hands, 2004 Shiraz
Harry & Edward's Garden, Langhorne Creek
Shy aromas of plum, eucalyptus, dust and molasses emerge with airing. Supple, zesty flavors of black cherry, chocolate and pencil. Big finish shows off notes of mocha and stone. $60
90 Two Hands, 2004 Samantha's Garden Shiraz
Clare Valley
Earthy aromas of plum, black cherry, mocha and minerals. Spicy flavors of mixed berries, citrus peel, bittersweet chocolate and dried tobacco. Compact, chalky close. $60
91 Two Hands, 2004 Bella's Garden Shiraz
Barossa Valley
Ripe flavors of blueberry, black raspberry, molasses and vanilla extract with minty overtones. Silky, exotic flavors of plum, fig, moist tobacco and semisweet chocolate. Concentrated finish brims with black fruit. $60
89 Two Hands, 2004 Lily's Garden Shiraz
McLaren Vale
Somewhat restrained aromas of mixed berries, fig, pencil and pine resin. Sweet flavors of black cherry, bittersweet chocolate and cedar. An herbal note emerges in the dry close. $60
90 Two Hands, 2004 Max's Garden Shiraz
Heathcote
Heady aromas of citrus, plum, dried tobacco and maple. Quite earthy flavors of cranberry, cherry, mocha and espresso. Dry, youthful finish marked by dark fruit and earth. $60
91 Two Hands, 2004 Sophie's Garden Shiraz
Padthaway
Floral scents of plum, fig, redwood and dust display appealing restraint. Round, juicy, expressive flavors of plum, blackberry, chocolate and brown sugar. Layered close features chocolate-covered cherry. $60
New Zealand
Sauvignon Blanc
89 Cloudy Bay, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough
Classic Sauvignon aromas of citrus peel, apple and cut grass. Sweetly fruity flavors of pear, lime peel and minerals. Stylish finish. $28
90 Nobilo, 2005 Icon Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough
Pungent at first, followed by lemon drop scents and a briny note. Juicy pineapple flavors with a verdant nuance. This is a stylized Sauvignon that packs more muscle than the regular bottling. $22
90 Matua Valley, 2005 Paretai Sauvignon Blanc
Estate Series, Marlborough
Intense aromas of citrus, chili pepper and cigar ash. Flavors of apple, herbs and minerals are rounder than suggested by the nose. Lip-smacking close. $17
90 Nautilus, 2004 Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough
Herbaceous scents of apple and chili pepper show hints of ripeness in the background. Well-meshed flavors of lemon, minerals and fresh herbs. Juicy finish. $17
87 The Jibe, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough
Aromas of just-sliced honeydew melon and bubblegum. Sweet flavors of fruit cocktail. Picks up intensity in the lime-soaked close. $15
90 Wairau River, 2004 Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough
Clean aromas of grapefruit, asparagus and wet stone. Refreshingly puckering flavors of lime peel, green bean and minerals. Classic chalky close. $19
Pinot Noir 88 Felton Road, 2004 Pinot Noir
Central Otago
Pungent aromas of black pepper, damp stone and licorice leave the fruit in the background. Thick flavors of black fruit, cran-apple and ample black earth. Tart close. $44
91 Felton Road, 2004 Pinot Noir
Block 3, Central Otago
Beautifully reserved aromas of black cherry, forest floor, leather and pencil. Soft, though vibrant flavors of cherry, cranberry, dust and cedar. Rich, creamy finish warmed by menthol notes. $60
88 Kathy Lynskey Wines, 2004 Pinot Noir
Block 36 Reserve, Marlborough
Very earthy aromas of plum, dried leaves and mocha. Lean, earthy flavors of blackberry, graphite and chalk. A shovelful of earth in the finish. $39
87 Nobilo, 2004 Pinot Noir
Marlborough
Warm aromas of plum, black cherry and barnyard. Sweet-tart flavors of blackberry and coffee show a slight stemminess. Youthfully astringent close. $22
France
Chablis
89 Domaine Louis Moreau, 2004 Chablis
Chablis
Ripe aromas of apple and honey with hints of wood spice. Flavors of honeydew melon and slate are quite dry. Racy, lemony finish. $26
94 Domaine Louis Moreau, 2003 Les Clos
Chablis Grand Cru
Honey aromas jump from the glass and lead to buttered apricot and nutmeg notes. Flavors of peach, honey, minerals and mulling spice are rich and layered without being cloying. Huge stone fruit finish manages to remain in control. $80
88 J. Moreau & Fils, 2004 Chablis
Chablis
Subtle, green scents of apple and minerals possess great freshness. Bracing flavors of green apple and damp stone. Tart close. $20
88 Joseph Drouhin, 2004 Chablis
Chablis
A dusting of bee pollen leads to aromas of pear and lime. Clean flavors of sour apple and asparagus. Zesty finish. $20
88 Joseph Drouhin, 2004 Chablis
Domaine de Vaudon, Chablis
Perfumed scents of apple blossom, orange peel and a hint of butterscotch candy. Flavors of green apple, lime and wet stone are a bit thinner than suggested by the nose. Very citrusy close. $23
91 Joseph Drouhin, 2004 Chablis Premier Cru
Chablis Premier Cru
Classic blend of lime, chalk and mineral aromas, all in perfect proportion. Focused flavors of apple and honey show great balance. Lime-infused finish. $29
91 Joseph Drouhin, 2004 Séchers
Chablis Premier Cru
Ripe, tropical aromas of pineapple and butter are nicely grounded by slate notes. Very citrusy flavors of lime and chalk are quite different than suggested by the nose. Fresh, herbal close. $33
92 Joseph Drouhin, 2004 Montmains
Chablis Premier Cru
Lovely aromas of just-sliced apple, orange peel, white flowers and beeswax. Vibrant flavors of lemon and lots of minerals are showcased by the wine's great balance. Wood spices creep into the finish. $33
92 Joseph Drouhin, 2003 Vaudésir
Chablis Grand Cru
Initial oak impressions yield somewhat to aromas of peach, orange honey and sandalwood. Oak currently dominates flavors of apricot, honey and dried tobacco. Long close highlighted by wood spice. $82
Burgundy
90 Joseph Drouhin, 2003 Chorey-Beaune
Chorey-Beaune
Bright cherry and clove aromas with a note of resin. Crisp and edgy with stone fruit flavors and the zing of new oak. Youthful, minty finish. $21
90 Joseph Drouhin, 2003 Santenay
Santenay
Pungent mushroom aromas followed by sweet cherry, redwood and lavender. Soft on the palate with cherry and clove flavors. Crisp, delicate close with lingering red fruit notes. $24
93 Joseph Drouhin, 2003 Côte de Beaune
Côte de Beaune
Uplifting bouquet of cherry, cranberry, cedar and rose water. Extremely friendly and ripe with silky tannins and a combination of cherry and strawberry flavors. An elegant, charming wine with great length. $28
93 Joseph Drouhin, 2003 Gevrey-Chambertin
Gevrey-Chambertin
Pungent garden aromas with an under scent of black cherry. Hefty and full with vibrant clove accents laced throughout the red fruit flavors. A charred oak nuance punctuates the extended finish. $41
95 Joseph Drouhin, 2003 Volnay
Volnay
Mixed aromas of black earth, rhubarb, cranberry and pencil. Layers of supple cherry fruit with well-meshed tannins and acids. This is a stylish, rewarding wine that impressed from the outset and kept improving in the glass. $42
92 Joseph Drouhin, 2003 Aloxe-Corton
Aloxe-Corton
Delicately perfumed scents of strawberry, violets and a hint of earth. Balanced flavors of red cherry, oak spice and flowers are juicy without being cloying. Tannins show up in the otherwise ripe close. $43
94 Joseph Drouhin, 2003 Vosne-Romanée
Vosne-Romanée
Warm, subtle aromas of plum, red currant, flowers and earth. Round, silky flavors of cherry, pencil and cedar sport woody, though unobtrusive, tannins. Tightens up a bit in the finish. $55
95 Joseph Drouhin, 2003 Chambolle-Musigny
Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru
Somewhat shy aromas of cherry, damp stone, cedar and smoke sweeten with air. Silky flavors of dried cherry, strawberry, tobacco and cedar are deep and approachable despite the wine's youth. Lots of fruit and oak spice in the finish. $70
95 Joseph Drouhin, 2003 Griotte-Chambertin
Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru
Bushels of cherry and strawberry aromas well grounded by cedar, tobacco, black pepper and a red meat note. Juicy flavors of cherry, rose petals and forest floor lack none of the New World's ripeness but share the exquisite balance Pinot can offer when conjured in Burgundy. Luscious close features strawberry preserves. $183
95 Joseph Drouhin, 2003 Chambolle-Musigny
Chambolle-Musigny Amoureuses Premier Cru
Reserved aromas of cherry, cedar and leather promise to blossom in time. Smooth flavors of black fruit, black pepper and red meat are framed by a citrusy acidity and need coaxing to emerge; a brilliant, if currently shy package. Tangy, tooth-coating finish reflects the wine's heft. $207
Tutored Tastings
Chappellet
Editor-at-Large David A. Beaulieu reviewed the wines that follow on October 8 at Walt Disney World in Orlando as part of the 10th annual Epcot International Food & Wine Festival. The tasting was led by the winery's National Sales Manager Cyril Chappellet and Fred Dame, M.S., President of the Court of Master Sommeliers. The wines were not tasted blind. 87 Chappellet, 1982 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Showing some browning, a subdued garnet center strikes the eye. Aromas of warm cocoa and cassis with ripe Cabernet fruit greet the nose. In the mouth, subtle fruit notes are challenged by dusty tannins. Green olive appears in the tannic finish. $35
87 Chappellet, 1984 Cabernet Sauvignon
"Signature," Napa Valley
Dusty rose center fades to a thin edge. Prominent Cabernet and coffee nose. Mature flavors of mint, olive and a touch of cherry. Tart, angular finish. $50
88 Chappellet, 1986 Cabernet Sauvignon
"Signature," Napa Valley
Light garnet hue. Cedar, plum and tobacco leaf nose. Dark cherry and cranberry flavors peek from behind bold tannins that hold forth through to the crisp finish. (Poured from magnum.) $60
91 Chappellet, 1987 Cabernet Sauvignon
"Signature," Napa Valley
Blue-garnet center leads to a rose edge. This mature wine displays a broad palate of ripe blackberry fruit and toasty oak with cedar notes and well-integrated ripe tannins. Nicely balanced finish. $200
87 Chappellet, 1989 Cabernet Sauvignon
"Signature," Napa Valley
Medium garnet hue. Tight nose slowly yields notes of black cherry, vanilla and coffee bean. Light flavors, coupled with firm acidity, reflect the aroma profile. Medium-long and angular close. $150
92 Chappellet, 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon
"Signature," Napa Valley
Reflective garnet color all the way to the edge. Rich aromas of ripe cherry and spicy new oak. Cherry-berry flavors meld with smooth tannins and ample acidity. Ripe fruit and cocoa persist in the finish. $125
96 Chappellet, 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon
"Signature," Napa Valley
Shimmering blue-purple center with a ruby edge. Intense, vibrant aromas of ripe black cherry, dark chocolate and clove. Explosive, concentrated flavors of black currant and spicy oak with a hint of green olive. A rich, well-balanced finish. $125
89 Chappellet, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon
"Signature," Napa Valley
Dusty rose hue. Spicy varietal nose showcases black cherry. Generous ripe cherry and subtle oak nuances blend well with tangy cabernet fruit flavors. This medium-bodied wine finishes with moderate acidity and surprisingly spiky tannins. $100
95 Chappellet, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Pritchard Hill Estate Vineyard, Napa Valley
Almost opaque blue-purple center. Quintessential aromas of cherry, cassis and green olive define the nose. Deeply concentrated flavors of blackberry, mint and spicy oak. Long, generous finish combines powerful fruit notes with ripe tannins. $120
92 Chappellet, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
"Signature," Napa Valley
Vibrant blue-rose color. Sweet aromas of mashed berry and vanillin oak set the stage for a parade of silky, soft and perfectly balanced flavors of red currant, plum and a hint of nutmeg. Quite long, clean finish with well-integrated ripe tannins. $44
Wolf Blass
BuyLine panelists John Stroker, Todd Wernstrom and Abe Horowitz reviewed the wines that follow on October 17 at The Capital Grille in Miami. The tasting was led by chief winemaker Chris Hatcher; the wines were served with food and were not tasted blind. 87 Wolf Blass, 2005 Gold Label Riesling
Claire Valley-Eden Valley
Fresh scents of lemon, mineral and white peach. Vibrant acidity and juicy flavors of lemon and white grapefruit. A touch of mineral in the lime-driven close. $14
88 Wolf Blass, 2004 Gold Label Chardonnay
Adelaide Hills
Pungent scents of charred oak, smoke and slate. Crisp acidity and clean flavors of lemon and white peach with secondary nuances of smoke and minerals. Hints of cream in the lemony finish. $21
89 Wolf Blass, 2002 Gold Label Cabernet Sauvignon
Coonawarra
Intense aromas of plum and black cherry with secondary nuances of white pepper, leather and thistle. Firm tannins and generous acidity support racy flavors of wild cherry and cranberry. Tobacco and tea frame the elegant close. $24
90 Wolf Blass, 2002 Gold Label Shiraz
Barosssa
Intense aromas of plum and chocolate with undertones of tar and mocha. Velvety tannins and ripe black cherry flavors. Creamy cherry cola notes in the finish. $25
92 Wolf Blass, 2003 Grey Label Cabernet Sauvignon
Langhorne Creek
Enticing aromas of cream and black cherry with a wisp of mint. Velvety tannins and luscious cherry pie and blackberry flavors. Hints of vanilla and oak surface in the lingering close. $32
93 Wolf Blass, 2001 Black Label Cab-Shiraz
McLaren Vale, Barossa, Adelaide
Appealing scents of plum, mocha and vanilla with notes of toasted oak and iodine. Creamy flavors of raspberry and cherry. Lingering red fruit impressions in the plush finish. $70
95 Wolf Blass, 2002 Platinum Label Shiraz
Barossa
Brimming with exotic scents of plum and blackberry with nuances of white pepper and mocha. Perfectly balanced palate combines full, refined tannins, luscious fruit flavors and creamy acidity. Ripe, juicy flavors of blackberry and plum with hints of rum cake and menthol. Layers of mocha, brown sugar and raspberry liqueur in the eternal close. $72
About the BuyLine Panel: More than 100 wines are reviewed in every issue of Wine News. All wines are tasted double-blind and each entry is evaluated and scored based upon individual merit. Wines that score above 70 points are recommended in the BuyLine. Tasting and interpreting wine is a purely subjective exercise; all scores and accompanying tasting notes represent the collective opinions of our panel.
Wine Samples: Send samples for review with retail price affixed to:
Wine News BuyLine Tasting Panel
1501 Venera Avenue, Suite 320
Coral Gables, FL 33146
Telephone: 305.740.7170
The Panel: Maurice Adams, specialty food and wine merchant; Lyn Farmer, senior staff columnist; Abraham Horowitz, BuyLine panelist; Tom E. Smith, publisher; John Stroker, BuyLine panelist; Fred Tasker, Miami Herald wine critic; Todd M. Wernstrom, executive editor.
Scoring: Tasting notes reflect the panel's collective impressions; scores are averaged and represent the panel's mean. Wines possessing certain criteria will be singled out for special recognition:
Taster's Choice: Wines which display outstanding quality, character and potential.
Best Value Wines of exceptional quality which sell at a moderate price.
Stemware: Riedel Ouverture tasting glasses.
Pricing: Prices vary from state to state. Retail prices listed are approximate.
