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Taster's Choice: 94 The Terraces, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Vibrant inky-black hue with a ruby rim. Jammy, sweet nose filled with black currant, blueberry, plum, brown sugar, black pepper and coconut. Chewy flavors of sweet blueberry, blackberry, pecan, coffee bean and vanilla with a healthy dose of combed tannins. Long, creamy finish resonating with lusty black fruit. $60 / 238 cases 94 Barossa Valley Estate, 1999 E&E "Black Pepper" Barossa Valley, Australia Black hue with a garnet rim. Well-balanced, complex aromas of blackberry, black cherry, chocolate, orange peel, vanilla, coconut and exotic hints of rum cake, clove and soy sauce. Huge, ripe flavors of blackberry, blueberry, vanillin oak and a touch of fino sherry. Velvety, evolved close shows ripe fruit and mocha. $85 93 Chateau St. Jean, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Cinq Cépages, Sonoma County Black hue with a garnet rim. Well-integrated nose emitting opulent aromas of blackberry, plum, cedar, mint, dust and the warmth of alcohol. Sweet fruit flavors of blackberry, plum and blueberry with balancing notes of chocolate, coffee and cedar. Minty chocolate accents the close. $70 Best Value: 88 Allan Scott, 2002 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand Pale gold-silver hue. Clean, racy aromas of sweet lime, lemon zest, green pea and herbs. Very good balance and fresh acidity showcase varietal flavors of gooseberry, melon and grass. A green note in the close. $11 / 25,000 cases 88 McWilliam's Hanwood Estate, 2001 Shiraz South Eastern Australia Deep garnet hue. Complex aromas of plum, black cherry, cigar box, espresso and a whiff of pine. Tangy, smoky flavors of plum, cherry, black pepper and tobacco with a vanilla flourish. Sweet, peppery finish resonates with fruit. $11 87 Wolf Blass, 2001 Chardonnay Presidents Selection, South Australia Medium gold hue. Ripe, fresh scents of peach, apple, toasty oak and a floral hint. Crisp, spicy flavors of lemon pie, pineapple and toasted oak. Creamy finish highlighted by butter and wet stone. $15 Publisher's Pick 93 Bertani, 1972 Amarone Valpolicella Classico Superiore Reflective amber hue. A heady bouquet of citrus, nutmeg and maple. Mature and lush with creamy, Port-like flavors; very oily in terms of weight and texture. The finish exudes a defined richness and a lingering sweetness. $175 / 7,204 cases - TES More Scores California Chardonnay 88 Alderbrook, 2000 Chardonnay Dry Creek Valley Bright gold hue. Ripe, buttery aromas of pear, mango, banana and charred oak. Creamy flavors of peach, banana, toasted oak and white pepper. Lingering finish features caramel. $20 87 Arrowood, 2000 Chardonnay Réserve Spéciale, Sonoma County Medium yellow-straw hue. Lean nose of grapefruit, apple and sauvignon-like grassiness. Stone fruit flavors dominate with nuances of new oak and butterscotch. Lemon zest and pear in the close. $42 87 Beaucanon, 1999 Chardonnay Selection Réservé, Napa Valley Deep gold hue. Rich scents of butterscotch and honey with secondary aromas of pear, lychee and vanillin oak. Ripe, sweet flavors of peach, pineapple, pecan and honey. Lingering close shows brown sugar. $25 88 Byron, 1999 Chardonnay Nielson Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley Deep gold hue. Rich aromas of pineapple, almond, butter and pumpkin spice. Clean, racy flavors of ripe pear, peach, oak and an interesting sherry note. Lemon zest marks the close. $40 90 Chateau Potelle, 1999 Chardonnay VGS, Natural Yeast, Unfiltered, Napa Valley Bright gold hue. Burgundy-like aromas of apple, butter, smoky oak and a hint of cinnamon. Sweet, oily-textured flavors of peach, pineapple, banana, white pepper and bacon fat. Long, toasty finish. $39 89 Gary Farrell, 2000 Chardonnay Starr Ridge Vineyards, Russian River Valley Medium gold hue. Fragrant aromas of pear, apple and lemon with whiffs of lemon grass and wet stone. Full-bodied with ample flavors of red apple, pear, biscuit, black pepper and butterscotch. Chewy close. $34 88 Gloria Ferrer, 2000 Chardonnay Carneros Burnished gold hue. Complex nose of peach, apricot, honey, mixed grains and mineral. Nectar-like mouth- feel with flavors of lemon, ripe peach, clove and a hint of smoke. Juicy citrus frames the racy finish. $20 90 Joseph Phelps, 2000 Ovation Chardonnay Napa Valley Medium gold hue. Buttery nose of pineapple, apricot and toasty oak with a hint of mineral. Full-bodied, lively flavors of ripe red apple, citrus, butterscotch, clove and flint. Tropical fruit marks the close. $44 85 Torres Estate, 2000 Dobles Lias Chardonnay Don Miguel Vineyard, Russian River Valley Medium gold hue. Shy, spicy scents of apple, clove, peppermint and earth. Lean, racy flavors of citrus, pineapple and oak that carry through the finish. $40 91 Mer Soleil, 2000 Chardonnay Barrel Fermented, Central Coast Burnished gold hue. Ripe, rich aromas of apple, pineapple, buttered rum, oak and mixed grains. Bright acidity allows unctuous flavors of lemon drop, mango, bacon fat, butterscotch and charred oak to remain fresh. Lush, buttery finish. $42 86 Stags' Leap Winery, 2001 Chardonnay Napa Valley Medium straw hue. Rich aromas of tropical and citrus fruit with added scents of butter and mineral. Ripe fruit in the mouth with hints of butterscotch and oak. A touch of sweetness marks the close. $22 Cabernet & Blends 93 Altamura, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Dense, nearly black hue with a garnet rim. Fresh, jammy, fragrant nose loaded with stewed plum, blueberry, black licorice, coconut and hints of mocha, smoke and cedar. Velvety mouth-feel showcases warm flavors of black cherry, chocolate, tobacco, coffee and redwood. Lengthy, menthol-laced finish. $60 90 Atlas Peak, 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Consenso Vineyard, Atlas Peak, Napa Valley Unfiltered black hue. Sweet aromas of blueberry, strawberry and mocha balanced by cigar box, toasted peppercorn and Worcestershire sauce. Intensely earthy flavors of black cherry, prune, tobacco, loam, coffee and vanillin oak. A kiss of mocha in the finish. $30 89 Beaucanon, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Selection Réservé, Napa Valley Inky hue with a garnet tint. Brooding aromas of stewed fruit, boysenberry, tobacco, smoke and tea. Chalky texture with Bordeaux-like flavors of cranberry, citrus peel, cedar and dust. Hay and tobacco in the youthful close. $58 90 Cafaro, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Garnet hue. Subtle, complex aromas of cranberry, orange zest, coffee, cedar, clove and smoke. Racy flavors of tart red berry, orange peel, chocolate, vanillin oak and dried tobacco. Mocha and sweet tea accent the finish. $40 90 Cain Vineyard & Winery, 1999 Cain Five Napa Valley Dense purple hue. Earthy, meaty aromas of black cherry, cedar, barnyard, eucalyptus and roasted coffee bean. Chalky mouth-feel belies ample acidity and youthful flavors of brambly blackberry, tobacco, charred oak and cedar. A roasted, dry close. $85 93 Caymus Vineyards, 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon Special Selection, Napa Valley Opaque purple-black hue with a ruby rim. Extracted, well-integrated grapy aromas of blackberry, chocolate, tobacco, cedar and licorice. Vibrant acidity with balanced flavors of black plum, chocolate-cherry, earth and molasses. Tight, youthful, coffee-tinged finish. $136 91 Cosentino Winery, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Napa Valley Unfiltered crimson hue. Claret-like scents of plum, sour cherry, citrus peel, cedar, tobacco and forest floor. Red fruit flavors of cherry and cranberry with nuances of moist earth, tea, leather and clove. Earth and smoke mark the finish. $80 88 Dry Creek Vnyd., 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Endeavour, Dry Creek Valley Deep crimson hue. Friendly aromas of cherry pie, cassis, shredded coconut, caramel and mint. Flavors of ripe red cherry, drying cedar, forest floor and hints of cinnamon and maple. New oak dominates the finish. $50 90 Duckhorn, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Monitor Ledge Vineyard, Napa Valley Black-purple hue. Intriguing floral scents yield to aromas of jammy black cherry, black licorice, Worcestershire sauce, mint and a touch of dried tobacco. Extracted, ripe fruit in the mouth with red cherry, raspberry, blueberry and balancing flavors of oak, earth and mocha. Dry close marked by black pepper. $90 90 Duckhorn, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Patzimaro Vineyard, Napa Valley Blue-black hue. Heady, warm aromas of brambly blackberry, black cherry, charred oak, earth, vanilla and a hint of coconut. Rich, palate-coating flavors of plum, sweet cherry, smoke, chocolate and lots of oak. Youthful, lingering close accented by chocolate. $90 92 Duckhorn, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Purple-black hue. Spicy, forward aromas of black cherry, strawberry, evergreen, mocha, coconut and earth. Sweet, ripe flavors of blackberry, black cherry, cigar box, chocolate and tea laced with lively acidity. Very long close features maple, tea and clove. $80 92 Etude, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Inky black hue. Complex nose of strawberry, cherry, black olive, maple, new oak and cinnamon. Vibrant flavors of mixed berry, black cherry, cedar, clove and chocolate. A touch of sweetness softens the peppery finish. $80 92 Fife Vineyards, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Spring Mountain, Napa Valley Brooding black hue. Opulent bouquet of brambly blackberry, black cherry, evergreen, smoke, mocha and brown sugar. Forward in the mouth with flavors of black currant, black cherry, coffee, sweet oak and tar. Earth, oak and chocolate mark the lengthy finish. $50 91 Kathryn Hall Vnyds., 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Sacrashe Vineyard, Rutherford/Napa Valley Black-crimson hue. Smoky, earthy, gamy aromas of red berry, new oak, tar and coffee. Big, mouth-puckering flavors of black currant, tobacco, tea and earth with an herbaceous accent. Youthful, dry, tart finish. $50 89 Kenwood, 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Artist Series, Sonoma County Unfiltered garnet hue. Delicate, floral scents of wild cherry, strawberry, mocha and a touch of cedar. Full mouth-feel with flavors of blueberry, red fruit, mocha, coffee, earth and cedar. Youthful, peppery close. $75 92 Louis M. Martini, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Monte Rosso Vineyard, Sonoma Valley Purple-garnet hue. Vibrant aromas of black cherry, plum, vanilla, brown spice and earth. Creamy, well-balanced flavors of ripe black cherry, chocolate, cinnamon and vanillin oak bolstered by tart raspberry acidity. Warm, lingering close shows alcohol and chocolate notes. $50 91 Marston Family, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain, Napa Valley Blue-black hue with a garnet rim. Spicy scents of black plum, blackberry, maple, new oak, cinnamon and mint. Tight, youthful flavors of black currant, black cherry, chocolate, tobacco and toasted oak. Youthful finish rife with promise. $60 92 Nickel & Nickel, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Tench Vineyard, Napa Valley Black-garnet hue. Clean, well-defined aromas of plum, cassis, black licorice, evergreen and tobacco. Brambly fruit flavors of plum, blackberry and blueberry imbued with hints of cedar, coffee bean and powdered cocoa. Rich close marked by black fruit and tobacco. $65 92 Nickel & Nickel, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon John C. Sullenger Vineyard, Napa Valley Dense, purple hue with a garnet rim. Aromas of black cherry, blueberry, forest floor and menthol. Silky texture adds nuance to flavors of blackberry, coconut, chocolate, black pepper and coffee. Lingering, youthful close shows smoke and chocolate. $75 92 Nickel & Nickel, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Dragon Fly Vineyard, Napa Valley Black hue with a bright purple rim. Bordeaux-like aromas of red fruit, dried tobacco, cedar and mint display a floral nuance. Well-balanced with jammy flavors of blackberry, black cherry, cassis, citrus peel, earth and a hint of vanillin oak. Long finish with generous red fruit notes. $90 91 Nickel & Nickel, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Stelling Vineyard Dense garnet hue. Aromas of plum, cherry and licorice mingle with woodsy scents of cedar, oak, dried tobacco and smoke. Creamy, forward flavors of strawberry jam, raspberry, orange peel, coffee bean, tea and sweet tobacco. Cherry marks the sweet close. $125 89 Quintessa, 1999 Red Wine Napa Valley Deep garnet hue. Extracted aromas of blackberry, stewed plum, coffee bean and powdered chocolate. Soft, nuanced flavors of plum, cherry, black currant, redwood and hints of vanilla, brown sugar and pepper. Firm finish shows sweet cherry. $110 91 Ristow Estate, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Quinta de Pedras Vineyard, Napa Valley Purple-black hue. Aromas of black cherry, coconut, tobacco, dust and evergreen. Bold and spicy in the mouth with flavors of blueberry, tart black cherry, black pepper, mint and cedar. Coffee bean punctuates the finish. $60 91 Robert Craig, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain, Napa Valley Dense purple-black hue. Jammy, extracted aromas of boysenberry, black plum, tar, cedar and racy scents of espresso and mocha. Continued richness in the mouth with chewy flavors of blackberry, plum, black pepper and cedar. Dry, youthful close. $48 92 Shafer, 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select, Stags Leap District Dense purple-black hue. Roasted, gamy aromas of blackberry, blueberry, coffee, new oak, brown sugar and eucalyptus. Rich, ripe flavors of plum, black cherry, black pepper, toasty oak, mocha and licorice. Opulent black fruit marks the long finish. $150 93 Trefethen, 1998 H¯alo, Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Black-garnet hue. Well-balanced nose of plum, raspberry and licorice with complementary scents of moist tobacco, menthol, coconut and cedar. Ripe, intense flavors of black currant, blueberry, black cherry, dark chocolate, black pepper and hints of anise and vanillin oak. Lingering close features licorice and menthol. $125 Merlot 89 Alexander Valley Vineyards, 2000 Merlot Alexander Valley Crimson hue. Spicy, extracted aromas of blackberry syrup, vanillin oak, coconut, coffee, cinnamon and earth. Ripe, racy flavors of black plum, blackberry, sweet oak and an intriguing fino sherry note. Bitter chocolate in the long, smooth close. $20 87 Arrowood, 1999 Merlot Unfined & Unfiltered, Sonoma County Medium garnet hue. Shy scents of blackberry, eucalyptus, cedar and wisps of chocolate and bell pepper. Softly sweet flavors of black cherry, black plum and chocolate with balancing black pepper. Warm close resonates with chocolate. $42 88 Arrowood Grand Archer, 2000 Merlot Sonoma County Deep garnet hue. Nicely balanced aromas of blackberry, plum, black pepper, coffee and cedar. Youthful but well-evolved flavors of plum, cherry, earth, clove and coffee. Dry, tart finish. $20 84 Bargetto, 1999 Merlot Reserve, Santa Cruz Mountains Purple hue with a garnet rim. Cranberry and black pepper scents fight through the powerful bell pepper aroma. Lean and green with some pleasant flavors of tart red fruit and black pepper. Dry close. $30 91 Beaucanon, 1999 Merlot Selection Réservé, Napa Valley Purple-black hue. Warmth of alcohol yields to rich aromas of black currant, smoke and coconut with orange blossom and Madeira nuances. Round, forward flavors of sweet black plum, orange peel, bitter chocolate, cedar and a hint of tobacco. Long close features chocolate and cedar. $47 86 Cafaro, 1999 Merlot Napa Valley Crimson hue. Lean, Bordeaux-like aromas of cedar, smoke, leather and hints of citrus peel and iodine. Tart, lively flavors of strawberry, citrus peel and chocolate with intriguing clove and herbal notes. A touch of mocha in the dry finish. $37 89 Chateau St. Jean, 2000 Merlot Sonoma County Purple-black hue. Shy nose features scents of red berry, mocha, forest floor and nuts. Creamy, forward flavors of stewed fruit, black cherry, coconut, espresso and hints of tobacco and cedar. Lingering close spiked with black pepper. $25 92 Duckhorn, 2000 Merlot Napa Valley Inky, nearly black hue. Opulent nose with scents of blackberry, black plum, cedar, coffee and earth. Creamy, soft flavors of plum, vanillin oak, roasted coffee bean, tar and tea kept lively by ample acidity. Chewy, chocolate-laced finish. $46 89 Frog's Leap, 2000 Merlot Napa Valley Black hue with a garnet tint. Interesting, complex aromas of black fruit, smoke, tobacco, coffee and a hint of candied fruit. Well-balanced flavors of plum, smoke, generous oak and coffee with a chalky mouth-feel. Long, earthy close. $30 90 Kendall-Jackson, 1999 Merlot Great Estates, Sonoma County Black-purple hue. Earthy, rich aromas of black cherry, plum, black pepper and a spicy cedar note. Concentrated, tangy and ripe with flavors of black cherry, roasted coffee bean, oak, chocolate and a hint of cinnamon. Powdered chocolate in the long finish. $35 89 Lolonis, 1999 Merlot Private Reserve, Redwood Valley Purple-garnet hue. Warm, heady aromas of red berry, citrus peel and blackberry with hints of red meat and caramel. Crisp acidity enlivens ripe flavors of black cherry, brambly blackberry, coffee and a touch of vanillin oak. Mocha note in the close. $30 92 Shafer, 2000 Merlot Napa Valley Deep garnet hue. Perfumed, rich nose full of blackberry, blueberry, coffee, coconut and earth. Excellent balance and a creamy mouth-feel showcase ripe flavors of black currant, blueberry, caramel, tar, black coffee and mocha. Lingering close marked by bitter chocolate, coffee and spiced fruit. $39 Pinot Noir 90 Cuvaison, 2000 Pinot Noir Estate Selection, Carneros Purple hue. Forward aromas of strawberry and plum with nuances of tobacco, tea, licorice and earth. Initial burst of sweet cherry followed by flavors of spice, oak and chocolate. Lively close marked by roasted fruit. $42 91 Dutton Goldfield, 2000 Pinot Noir Dutton Ranch/Freestone Vnyd., Russian River Garnet hue. Complex aromas of plum, cherry, cedar, coconut, tar and flowers. Viscous mouth-feel loaded with rich flavors of blackberry, plum, black coffee and bacon fat. Dry close shows a green tea note. $55 89 Fetzer Vineyards, 2000 Pinot Noir, Reserve Bien Nacido Vnyd., Santa Maria Valley Deep garnet hue. Herbaceous, woody scents of rhubarb, cranberry, smoke, forest floor and clove. Tangy, ripe flavors of raspberry, cranberry, cedar and tar. Lingering, smoky close. $40 89 Gary Farrell, 2000 Pinot Noir Olivet Lane Vineyards, Russian River Valley Bright garnet hue. Classic pinot aromas of briary strawberry, cedar, bacon fat and mint. Tartly dry flavors of red cherry, strawberry, tobacco and oak. Brambly finish shows spicy fruit. $38 91 Gary Farrell, 2000 Pinot Noir Rochioli-Allen Vnyd., Russian River Valley Deep garnet hue. Heady aromas of plum, stewed fruit, cherry, creamed coffee, toasted oak and dust. Racy acidity frames ripe flavors of cherry, strawberry, coffee, earth and smoke. Youthful close marked by an earthy, tea-like character. $60 90 Merry Edwards, 2000 Pinot Noir Windsor Gardens, Russian River Valley Deep garnet hue. Delicate aromas of black cherry, blackberry, clove, nutmeg and walnut. More vibrant flavors of charred fruit, blueberry, earth, new oak and mixed nuts. Citrus and coffee notes mark the finish. $54 89 Merry Edwards, 2000 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Purple-garnet hue. Mixed fruit and earth aromas of blueberry, plum, smoke and tar. Lean flavors of black cherry, briar, smoke and mint. Sweet, oaky close. $32 90 Merry Edwards, 2000 Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch, Russian River Valley Inky black hue. Big, smoky nose loaded with black fruit, coconut, pecan, earth and roasted meat scents. Well-integrated flavors of plum, black cherry, mocha, oak and tobacco with creamy texture and lively acidity. Black cherry and forest floor mark the close. $49 88 Merry Edwards, 2000 Pinot Noir Meredith Estate, Sonoma Coast Deep crimson hue. Stewed aromas of plum and cranberry with hints of coffee, bacon fat and anise. Cherry nuance yields to flavors of citrus peel, cedar, leather and vanilla. Dry finish shows a tea note. $45 90 Robert Mondavi Winery, 2000 Pinot Noir Unfiltered Reserve, Napa Valley Garnet hue. Spicy, lively scents of blueberry, red berry, smoke, vanillin oak and the warmth of alcohol. Soft, rich flavors of blackberry, blueberry, mocha, tea and smoke. Close features citrus and mocha. $50 89 Sanford, 2000 Pinot Noir Sanford & Benedict Vineyard, Santa Barbara Medium garnet hue. Old World aromas of cranberry, tobacco, cedar, violet and nuts. Rustic, lean flavors of cherry, citrus peel, smoked meat, tea and briar. Brambly close shows lots of spicy cedar. $50 93 Sanford, 2000 Pinot Noir La Rinconada Vineyard, Santa Rita Hills Black-garnet hue. Powerful scents of plum, blackberry, coconut, clove and coffee with a pretty rose petal nuance. Youthful, gamy flavors of plum, sweet tobacco, earth, black pepper, smoke and mocha. Smoke and tar power the finish. $60 Zinfandel 90 Gary Farrell, 2000 Zinfandel Bradford Mountain, Dry Creek Valley Black hue with a purple rim. Fragrant aromas of blackberry, blueberry, mint, smoke and violet. Rich flavors of black cherry, blackberry, smoked meat, mint and a hint of orange peel. Lingering close. $36 86 Gary Farrell, 2000 Zinfandel Ricci Vineyard, Russian River Valley Deep crimson hue with a purple rim. Forward aromas of boysenberry, raspberry, cherry and coffee. Sweet-tart flavors of cherry, raspberry, cedar and a hint of black pepper. Tart red fruit in the close. $27 87 Kenwood, 2000 Zinfandel Jack London Vineyard, Sonoma Valley Deep garnet hue with a purple rim. Aromas of black cherry and strawberry mix with scents of forest floor and oak. Tart red fruit flavors are followed by smoke, tobacco and redwood. Dry, earthy close. $20 86 Perry Creek, 2000 Cellar Select Zinfandel Spanish Creek Ranch, El Dorado Crimson hue. Primary aromas of black cherry and leather with hints of rhubarb, oak and earth. Lots of cherry lightens flavors of mocha, forest floor and cedar. Crisp, dry finish. $24 89 Stephen Ross, 2000 Zinfandel Dante Dusi Vineyard, Paso Robles Deep ruby hue. Aromas of boysenberry, cherry, dried tobacco, mocha and cedar. Tangy acidity enlivens extracted flavors of blackberry, black cherry, chocolate, anise and cedar. Clean, sweet close. $22 91 White Oak Vineyards, 2000 Zinfandel Alexander Valley Inky black hue. Extracted scents of brambly berry, black tea, eucalyptus and whiffs of coconut and mocha. Full, chalky flavors mirror the nose with notes of sweet tobacco and brown spice. Long finish. $24 Australia Chardonnay 85 Chateau Reynella, 2001 Chardonnay McLaren Vale Bright gold hue. Clean, floral scents of lime, lemon zest, flint and honeysuckle. Tangy, tart flavors of lemon, stone fruit, oak and a hint of crème brûlée. Lingering close shows a bit of sweetness. $15 86 Deakin Estate, 2001 Chardonnay Victoria Medium gold hue. Bold new oak accents aromas of spiced apple, pineapple and lemon pie. Stone fruit flavors dominate with added nuances of butter and oak. Butterscotch in the finish. $8 95 Giaconda, 2000 Chardonnay Victoria Medium straw hue. Distinctive, complex aromas of hazelnut, citrus and peach supported by hints of mineral, petrol and a seductive helping of oak. Agile in the mouth with medium acidity and flavors of crisp lemon, white fruit, hazelnut and a haunting floral quality. Great balance and structure with a long, impressive finish. Dazzling. $80 - LF 84 Gnangara, 2002 Chardonnay Unwooded, Western Australia Pale straw hue. Clean, if non-varietal, scents of lime, green apple, chalk and wet grass. Zingy flavors of grapefruit, green apple and mineral. Crisp finish. $11 86 Hardys Tintara, 2001 Chardonnay South Australia Pale straw hue. Bright nose of banana, pineapple and butter pecan. Crisp acidity frames ripe flavors of red apple, peach and a touch of grassiness. Caramel notes in the close. $15 85 Hope, 2001 Chardonnay Hunter Valley Medium yellow-gold hue. Complex tropical notes of mango and pineapple with added scents of charred oak and clove. Very soft flavors of lemon, caramel and butterscotch. Smoky butterscotch resonates in the finish. $8 85 Yalumba, 2002 Chardonnay South Australia Light yellow-gold hue. Mixed scents of tropical and stone fruit with a whiff of chalk. Bigger than indicated by the nose with an oily texture and flavors of red apple, lemon and bacon fat. Lemon and butter harmonize in the close. $10 Other Whites 87 Brookland Valley, 2002 Semillon-Sauvignon Verse 1, Margaret River Pale silver hue. Floral aromas of pear, ripe apple and honeysuckle. Both grapes weigh in with soft flavors of citrus and cut grass. Crisp, citrusy close. $16 93 Giaconda, 2001 Aeolia Victoria, (100% Rousanne) Medium yellow-gold hue. Unctuous aromas of melon, candle wax, honey and butterscotch. Complex and richly flavored with white flowers and spice notes blossoming alongside peach and apricot. Very long, nuanced finish with fine acidity. $75 - LF 89 Giaconda, 2001 Nantua "Les Deux" Victoria, (85% Chardonnay, 15% Rousanne) Pale straw hue. Floral aromas of peach and apricot with a wisp of mineral. Nicely balanced with medium-intense flavors of stone fruit, minerals and an engaging rousanne floral quality. Medium length; already quite well developed. $45 - LF Shiraz 91 Barossa Valley Estate, 1999 Ebenezer Shiraz Barossa Valley Black hue with a garnet rim. Sweet, jammy aromas of plum, blackberry, mocha and coconut with hints of maple, cedar and coffee bean. Just as extracted in the mouth with flavors of mixed berry, ripe plum, molasses and nuances of fino sherry and citrus peel. Creamy close marked by chocolate and oak. $30 90 Hardys, 1999 Eileen Hardy Shiraz South Australia Black hue with a purple rim. Earthy, rich nose brimming with aromas of plum, cassis, espresso, cedar and bacon fat. Racy acidity frames smoky flavors of black cherry, blueberry, leather, tar and black coffee. Rugged close shows pine and pepper. $85 92 Katnook Estate, 1999 Prodigy Shiraz Coonawarra Black hue with an orange rim. Robust, Rhône-like aromas of black plum, cherry, smoke, pencil lead, bacon fat and forest floor. Tart red fruit flavors yield to plum, chocolate, vanillin oak, black pepper and cigar box. Lingering mocha note in the finish. $50 86 Oxford Landing, 2001 Shiraz South Australia Dense purple hue. Floral-accented aromas of cherry, plum, bramble and earth. Vibrant acidity freshens very ripe flavors of rhubarb, plum, sweet oak and pencil lead. Lingering close shows cranberry. $9 86 Starve Dog Lane, 1999 Shiraz Adelaide Hills Purple-black hue. Intense aromas of brambly blackberry, salami and eucalyptus. More restrained in the mouth with racy raspberry, dust and cedar flavors framed by lively acidity. Dry close. $23 86 UBet, 2001 Shiraz South Eastern Australia Deep garnet hue. Sweet aromas of blackberry, smoke, vanillin oak and cedar. Flavors of plum, blackberry, coffee and pecan are soft in spite of racy acidity. Clean, sweet close marked by blackberry. $10 86 Yalumba, 2001 Shiraz South Australia Inky black hue. Jammy aromas of stewed fruit, blue-berry, cedar and smoke. Rhubarb-cherry flavors with coffee, vanilla and spice. Coffee note marks the close. $10 85 Yellow Tail, 2002 Shiraz South Eastern Australia Purple hue. Grapy, plummy aromas with hints of vanilla and earth. Clean, sweet flavors of blackberry boysenberry and vanillin oak. Sweet, friendly close. $6 New Zealand Chardonnay 88 Brancott Vineyards, 1999 Chardonnay Reserve, Gisborne Burnished straw hue. Bright aromas of orange peel and lemon drop with buttery highlights. Crisp flavors of grapefruit and ripe peach. Lengthy finish enhanced by vanilla and butterscotch notes. $18 86 Spy Valley, 2001 Chardonnay Marlborough Medium yellow hue. Earthy, buttery aromas of pineapple, banana and bacon fat with a nice touch of oak. Rich, sweet flavors of tropical fruit, butterscotch and vanillin oak. More sweetness in the close. $14 Sauvignon Blanc 89 Brancott Vineyards, 2002 Sauvignon Blanc Reserve, Marlborough Pale straw hue. Complex aromas of peach, lemon, pecan and biscuit with herbal undertones. Mouth-coating flavors of apple, pineapple and spicy grapefruit. Ripe close shows a hint of sweetness. $18 87 Nautilus, 2002 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Pale gold hue. Flinty nose of lime, grapefruit and grass. Soft flavors of lemon-lime, pineapple and hints of melon and pepper. Lots of citrus in the finish. $17 86 Palliser Estate, 2002 Sauvignon Blanc Martinborough Pale yellow-green hue. Pungently green aromas of citrus, fresh cut grass and a touch of bell pepper. Similar flavors with added hints of melon and straw. A bit of sweetness in the pleasant close. $17 86 Twin Islands, 2002 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Light gold-green hue. Aromas of lime, melon, and grapefruit with a wisp of flint. Juicy green apple and lemon flavors laced with citrus peel. Tangy close. $12 Pinot Noir 87 Brancott Vineyards, 2000 Pinot Noir Reserve, Marlborough Medium garnet hue. Perfumed nose of black cherry, cinnamon, smoke and cedar. Tart, crisp, well-balanced flavors feature cranberry, red cherry, charred oak and spice. Lots of cedar in the finish. $21 92 Lynskey's Wairau Peaks, 2001 Pinot Noir Marlborough Black-garnet hue. Ripe nose packed with aromas of sweet blackberry, black cherry, forest floor, chocolate, evergreen and exotic hints of ginger and smoke. Opulent, palate-coating flavors of black cherry, plum, mocha, charred oak and moist earth. Crisp, powerful close marked by clove and black pepper. $33 90 Nautilus, 2001 Pinot Noir Marlborough Deep garnet hue. Integrated nose of black cherry, strawberry, smoke, bacon fat, oak and hints of barnyard, leather and vanilla. Lively acidity freshens sweet flavors of blackberry, black cherry, cedar, earth and an intriguing red meat nuance. Spicy close. $20 87 Palliser Estate, 2000 Pinot Noir Martinborough Black-garnet hue. Cherry and chocolate aromas show nuances of licorice, earth and tobacco. Peppery red fruit and cedar flavors yield to big tannins and obvious alcohol. Spiced red fruit in the close. $25 90 Pencarrow, 2001 Pinot Noir Martinborough (Palliser Estate) Purple-black hue. Earthy, rich aromas of brambly black cherry, chocolate, smoke and bacon fat. Intense, nicely extracted flavors of blackberry, black cherry, leather, mocha and cedar. Lingering close. $20 86 Twin Islands, 2001 Pinot Noir Marlborough Light garnet hue. Peppery aromas of strawberry, plum and smoke. Forest floor and cedar accent flavors of ripe cherry and rose petal. Red fruit highlights the finish. $13 Bertani Amarone The wines that follow were reviewed by Publisher Tom E. Smith on October 19 at Walt Disney World's 7th Annual Epcot International Food & Wine Festival. The vertical tasting was presented by Burton Anderson, author and Italian wine expert. The prices are approximate; wines marked N/A are not presently available at retail. 88 Bertani, 1995 Amarone Valpolicella Classico Superiore Youthful garnet hue with a rusty rim. Mixed aromas of orange peel, caramel and bacon fat. Vibrant and acidic imparting distinct flavors of mocha, red fruit and a pinch of brown sugar. Racy, alcoholic finish. $75 90 Bertani, 1993 Amarone Valpolicella Classico Superiore Healthy, feathered ruby hue. Evolved aromas of maraschino cherry and chocolate. A focused wine with a core of cherry fruit. Spicy and dry with a chocolate nuance marking the finish. N/A 95 Bertani, 1990 Amarone Valpolicella Classico Superiore The only wine poured from magnum. Vibrant ruby hue. Black cherry aromas laced with clove, maple and mocha. Layers of balanced red and black fruit, crisp acidity and peppery tannins ensuring a long life. N/A 92 Bertani, 1985 Amarone Valpolicella Classico Superiore Rusty hue with a glint of orange at the rim. Roasted coffee bean scents with hints of cherry, orange peel and a whiff of iodine. Juicy and peppery with notes of cooked cherry and pecan. Youthful acidity gives way to citrus-like accents in the finish. N/A 88 Bertani, 1980 Amarone Valpolicella Classico Superiore Aged amber hue. Heady nose of alcohol, cream sherry and glove leather. Mature flavors emitting licorice, nutmeg and dried fruit notes. A hallmark lick of crisp acidity in the finish. $115 92 Bertani, 1976 Amarone Valpolicella Classico Superiore Burnished bourbon hue. Port-like aromas with notes of brown sugar and clove. Aged flavors on the brink of oxidation, but viscous with the sweetness of a fine oloroso sherry. Stylish and full of flavor. N/A 91 Bertani, 1968 Amarone Valpolicella Classico Superiore Brickish hue with an aged rusty-orange rim. Pungent aromas of maple and orange-rind. Viscous palate-feel emitting flavors of pecan, sherry and clove. Fully mature with a tempered, soft, sweet finish. $265 87 Bertani, 1962 Amarone Valpolicella Classico Superiore Mature, gold-amber hue. Heady scents of alcohol and brown sugar. Very soft, shedding its fruit and taking on sherry, nutmeg and mineral-like flavors. Dry, spicy and alcoholic; reminiscent of a fine Madeira. $299
Wine Samples: Send samples for review with retail price affixed to:
The Panel: Maurice Adams, specialty food and wine merchant; Lyn Farmer, senior staff columnist; Abraham Horowitz, BuyLine panelist; Amy Shipley, associate editor; Tom E. Smith, publisher; John Stroker, BuyLine panelist; Fred Tasker, Miami Herald wine critic; Todd M. Wernstrom, executive editor; Jeffrey Wolfe, wine merchant. Scoring: Tasting notes reflect the panel's collective impressions; scores are averaged and represent the panel's mean. Wines possessing certain criteria will be singled out for special recognition: Taster's Choice: Wines which display outstanding quality, character and potential. Best Value Wines of exceptional quality which sell at a moderate price.
Stemware: Riedel Ouverture tasting glasses.
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