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![]() The right sparkling wine can handle the aggressive, citrus-chili flavors that are the backbone of many ceviches. Photo: Mary McCulley |
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Despite a corresponding core ingredient of fresh, raw fish or shellfish, sushi and ceviche might initially seem to have very little in common. One delicacy has its origin in Japan; the other, stemming from the word cebiche, meaning "fish stew," arises in a number of interpretations from various Latin American and Caribbean countries. The first is most often meticulously composed á la minute by ngiri (piece) or maki (roll), while the latter is mixed willy-nilly by the batch, sometimes even while the fishing boat is still at sea. Sushi and ceviche share more than their simplest definition, however. The two preparations are inherently ideal for cocktail parties or holiday gatherings. With the right mise en place and a little practice, restaurant-worthy sushi and ceviche are easily reproduced by home chefs or, as an alternative, catered from a popular eatery and creatively replated as appetizing hors d'oeuvres. And while the preserving notes of rice vinegar and sugar in sushi rice and citrus juices and chili peppers in ceviche pose potential roadblocks to wine drinkers, these sweet, tart and occasionally piquant notes can meet their ultimate matches in crisp, palate-cleansing sparkling wines. Many contemporary chefs have long recognized the similarities between sushi and ceviche, hailing their unilateral, Atkins-era dietary appeal. In The Great Ceviche Book, Cuban-American author Douglas Rodriguez, the chef/restaurateur credited with launching the Nuevo Latino movement, first at Miami's Yuca and later at New York's Patria, quips, "Ceviche has the same health-conscious allure of sushi...I suspect it won't be too long before consumers start seeing containers of ceviche right next to the lines of California rolls in their grocer's refrigerated cases." Though sushi, in its strictest interpretation, lies atop a double finger's length of doctored rice or is wrapped with the grains, and traditional ceviche might be garnished with choclo (large kernels of boiled corn), maize cancha (toasty corn nuts) or a dice of sweet potatoes, "the protein itself is the star," says Rodriguez, now chef-owner of OLA in New York and Miami (along with Asia de Cuba in Philadelphia and Deseo in Scottsdale, Arizona). "[Sushi and ceviche] are single ingredient-driven dishes. They're Zen. The other ingredients exist to enhance the flavor of that one main thing." Keeping harmony and minimalism in mind, Chef Rodriguez effectively culls elements of each to create a crossover specialty. "Ceviches can be too overpowering. They benefit from the Asian mentality of balance," he elaborates. As a result, The Great Ceviche Book includes recipes for Eastern-influenced versions such as "Japanese salmon with wasabi and shiso." Likewise, Guillermo Pernot, the self-taught chef-owner of ¡Pasion! in Philadelphia, has deliberately channeled his ceviche recipes through a Japanese sensibility. In his book, ¡Ceviche! (with co-author Aliza Green), the Argentine native credits Chef Nobu Matsuhisa for inspiring him. "His dishes gave me a benchmark by which to judge the ceviches I would eventually create. From him I learned to use only the finest quality -- and very expensive -- sushi-grade fish and seafood, and to marinate the product very lightly, rather than curing it for days in the Peruvian style," Pernot writes. "Now I think it's funny that Japanese sushi chefs like Nobu, and Taka [Eji Takase] of SushiSamba in New York, have started to bring Latin American flavors into their sushi. At the same time, I have been incorporating both sushi standards of quality and Asian flavors into my ceviche." Thus his tendency to garnish salmon ceviche, kindred in appearance to sashimi, with a swirl of five different Japanese seaweeds spiked with minced jalapeños, soy sauce, roasted sesame oil, miso and red chili paste. On the flip side, professionals such as Chef Matsuhisa root recipes in Asian cuisine and look to Latin territory for influence. Prior to opening the instantaneously successful Matsuhisa in Los Angeles in 1987, Chef Matsuhisa ran a sushi bar in Peru for three years, where he "was exposed to Peruvian chiles and spices in daily life in Peru," he says. "When I moved to L.A., I started experimenting, trying to recreate the flavors I'd tasted in Peru in my own cooking." Today his inimitable but influential style is renown, as are the dishes he serves in his eponymous Nobu and Matsuhisa restaurants, such as yellowtail sashimi heightened by jalapeños or his tiradito, white fish marinated in yuzu (a sour Japanese citrus fruit) juice and rocoto (Peruvian red chili paste). Tiraditos, in fact, may be the most specific examples of "where Japan meets Peru," notes Sean Bernal, executive chef of Pescado in Coral Gables, Florida. Literally, tirado means "to throw;" in this case, it refers to the "throwing" of a zesty and tangy leche de tigre (literally, tiger's milk), or marinade, over ditos, or small bites, of sashimi. Chef Bernal learned the basics of Latin-Asian fusion during his tenure as sous chef at nearby Baleen, where he was "the only Puerto Rican chef to roll sushi," and as executive chef at neighboring Tambo, a Peruvian-Japanese restaurant that serves "Nikkei" (which refers to a generation of non-native Japanese) cuisine. "In the Caribbean and Latin America, there is a large influx of Chinese and Japanese immigrants," Chef Bernal explains. "They lent us their techniques and ingredients." In preparation for his erstwhile role at Tambo, Chef Bernal spent time in Peru "with a bunch of guys making ceviche." When he returned, he refined his first-hand experiences with a religious zeal: "No sleeping, no TV, no going out. I was bound to the idea of mastering ceviche." His dedication has been borne out in such dishes as grouper tiradito, a succulent portion of ultrafresh sashimi flash-marinated with aji amarillo (a Peruvian chili pepper), lime juice, scallions and cilantro, and garnished with both tender, starchy choclo and crunchy maize cancha. Chef Rodriguez also cites Peru as a country with an Asian regard. "Their philosophy is different," he says. "It's Eastern. Peruvian cooks look not only at how fresh the fish is, but where it came from, what it might have eaten, what the current of water was like. They won't buy from a guy who they think fishes too far north, for instance." Similarly, the menu at the highly regarded SushiSamba in New York, which combines Brazilian and Peruvian sensibilities with Japanese flair, highlights a unique mix of geographic point-specific, authentic ingredients. The concept is working: Culturally barrier-breaking items, such as beef tenderloin tiradito marinated in yuzu and mango juices or tuna sashimi ceviche garnished with onions and peppers, are winning over so many epicures that the restaurant has opened outposts in Miami and Chicago, called SushiSambaDromo and SushiSambaRio, respectively. But when it comes to pairing wines with such unorthodox reinventions, Paul Tanguay, corporate beverage director for the budding chain, says his New York and Chicago customers have a harder time seeing a sparkler as a wine that can accompany a meal. "They think of it as a celebratory thing. I'd love to see them choose a sec, or something sweeter than a brut, to go with their sushi." (He has better sales in Miami, a largely Hispanic, seaport city that embodies the union of ceviche styling, sushi-grade materials and mood-lifting sparkling wine.) Tanguay advises examining the dish before ordering the bubbly. If the sushi influences seem dominating, "a rosé would also offer more structure," he says. If lime-driven, ceviche-type flavors are more apparent, "go drier than brut." High-acid bubblies, such as Freixenet's 1999 Brut Nature, a Spanish cava just introduced in the U.S. market, or Roederer Estate's Anderson Valley NV Brut, can be especially companionable. Diners might even choose to wait for the dish to arrive prior to picking out a certain blanc de blancs, if only because most ceviches are offered as appetizers. At Azie in San Francisco, executive chef John Beardsley employs chilies and cilantro to perfume the restaurant's signature starter of hokkaido scallop ceviche, which he describes as "a classic South American thing, but the scallops are sliced like sashimi rather than diced or whole. The marinade includes lemon grass and fish sauce; the ingredients are more Asian but the technique of the dish -- the scallops being cooked by acid -- remains the same." Scallops, Chef Beardsley notes, are a particular favorite among those who experiment with this brand of fusion. "The texture stays a lot better," he says. "Other fishes fall apart, get cottony and crumbly, but the acids keep the scallops together and kind of firms them up." This quality allows chefs like Ming Tsai, owner of Blue Ginger, television personality and author of the recently released cookbook Simply Ming, to arrange sections of sea scallops, sliced into quarter-inch disks and "cooked" in an herb-infused, lime dipping sauce loosely based on the traditional Thai condiment cha-gio, with parings of analogously lush mango. Chef Rodriguez adds a caveat: Sea scallops, or conchitas, tend to cure so quickly that he doctors his signature, lime juice-heavy recipe with lower-acid citrus fruits such as Valencia orange or grapefruit to slow down the process and allow the shellfish more time to absorb the sun-sweetened flavors. And Chef Bernal makes parallel observations about the importance of matching the marinade to the type of fish or shellfish. For instance, he says, "Shrimp can't cure in lime - they turn into mushy masses of iodine. You have to blanch them first, then add them to the leche de tigre." Accents and accompaniments are just as easily imported from sushi to ceviche and vice-versa. Crisp, clean cucumber, one of the recognizable components of the likeable California roll, is borrowed for Chef Pernot's oyster ceviche; in another recipe utilizing red snapper, Chef Pernot employs buttery avocado and wasabi-flavored tobiko (flying fish roe), two other texturally significant maki ingredients. He then finishes the fish with freshly grated daikon radish. Had the latter dish been forthcoming from a sushi bar, a diner would have no idea that, technically, Chef Pernot labels it ceviche. Regardless, it may be the ease in which sushi and ceviche lend themselves to pass-around platters, buffet tables or French service that is their most common trait. Firmly packed and cleanly sliced, ngiri and maki are the epitome of finger food. Here is where sushi can most draw influence and incorporate elements from ceviche. For instance, instead of wrapping lenguado, or sole, with seaweed for ¡Pasion!'s oft-requested handroll, Chef Pernot layers the delicate white fish with whole-leaf cilantro. And rather than serving the familiar beige-pink leaves of ginger to help the palate recover its pluck, he offers pickled green mango, a condiment that is given a boost from lime, garlic and habanero chili peppers. Presented in the form of a sushi roll, ceviche can be decoratively set out and picked up. But in its purest form, ceviche and its Asian counterparts pose more of an obstacle. Chef Rodriguez supplies several ideas along this vein: Frosted martini glasses or chilled spoons are two methods of serving individual portions of ceviche; alternatively, scallop or oyster shells make convenient vessels. Perhaps most preferable, edible bases, such as lettuce cups or the won ton chips that Lorena Garcia, Venezuelan native and chef-proprietor of Food Café in Miami, serves with her Asian-influenced, soy-lemon tuna ceviche, tempt party-goers who already have five digits curled around a flute of something crisp and bubbly - perhaps, an edgy Gloria Ferrer NV Blanc de Blancs, with its ceviche-friendly citrus, chalk and clean, minerally flavors. Each can readily quench potential fires from chili peppers and wasabi alike, and handle both lime and ginger assiduously. Just be sure to chill enough bubbly beforehand for enthusiastic guests, who will no doubt require many glassfuls in order to settle the potential arguments over which came first, the sushi or the ceviche. Features Editor Jen L. Karetnick also covers the restaurant scene for Miami New Times and reviews restaurants for New Times Broward/Palm Beach. Global Partners With their ability to bridge continental and hemispheric divides, sushi and ceviche are well suited to help us focus on that which truly matters during the holidays: friends and family. And regardless of whether you light candles, hang ornaments or wish for peace on earth some other way, there are a host of sparkling wines available to complement the diverse flavors and textures of both cuisines. Of course, the unrivaled bubblies of Champagne are an obvious choice, as are domestic sparklers from California and Washington, but effervescent wines are made in every corner of the globe. Most that turn up in restaurants and fine wine stores are made in the méthode traditionelle, or méthode champenoise in deference to the primacy of Champagne's impact on the process. The following countries produce suitably crisp, moderately priced sparklers: Australia: Greg Norman Estates offers a lively, green appley sparkler made from chardonnay and pinot noir, but there are no rules Down Under. In addition to the three classic Champagne grapes, others, such as chenin blanc, riesling and sémillon, are often used as well. Italy: Most usually think of the frivolous Asti Spumante in regard to Italian bubbles, but the country has two very serious sparkling zones as well: Franciacorta Spumante, found in Lombardy, tends toward steely, minerally, flinty aromas and flavors and can be mistaken for Champagne in blind tastings. Ca' del Bosco is thought to be the leading producer. Its 1998 Dosage Zero is even crisper than usual; the Brut is the epitome of the appellation. A bit farther east is the Prosecco area of the Veneto. The wines from the two primary towns are softer and creamier than Franciacorta and typically show apple and peach flavors. Zardetto's is hard to beat. Spain: Cava is one of the world's most recognizable bubbly names, and refers to a huge appellation spread out, mostly, in Catalonia. The typical flavor profile ranges from red apple to tropical fruit. A few easy-to-find examples include Paul Cheneau Brut Blanc de Blancs with its conversation-inspiring bottle; the regally appointed Segura Viudas Brut Reserva Heredad; Freixenet's ubiquitous Cordon Negro Brut or its softly red fruited Brut de Noirs. - TMW Honing your Technique If copasetic ingredients are the heart of the sushi-ceviche alliance, technique and tools are the lungs that breathe life into the overlap. Both types of dishes, which generally feature fish and shellfish (once in a while, meat or a vegetable substitutes as the main ingredient), require ice-cold raw materials, ultrasharp knives and no-nonsense hands. Partially freezing fillets and shellfish in plastic wrap for a half-hour or so will effectively kill any parasites and will also firm up the cutting surfaces. A sneeringly thin blade - Japanese sushi chefs sharpen only one side for extra leverage - will allow for delicate slices with beautiful lines. - JLK Saigon Scallop & Octopus Ceviche By Jen L. Karetnick
Serves 4 Scallop and Mango Ceviche From Simply Ming by Ming Tsai and Arthur Boehm
Arrange greens on chilled plates. Top each portion with 3 scallop slices, half the shallot and all the mango. Top with remaining scallop slices and shallot. Pour over the lime juice. Sprinkle with the peppercorns, crushing them with your fingers as you do so. Serves 4 For the Thai Lime Dipping Sauce:
Makes about 5 cups Lenguado Handroll From ¡Ceviche! by Guillermo Pernot with Aliza Green
Remove flounder from the marinade and place on a clean work surface, with the outer side down. Cut each fillet into a 4" length, discarding trimmings. Cover the exposed side of the fish with cilantro leaves. Over the cilantro, on one short end of each of the flounder pieces, place 1/4 of the avocado, cucumber, tomato and chives. Roll each fillet up as tightly as possible around the vegetables. Cover and refrigerate briefly to firm the rolls. Using a sharp knife, slice each roll crosswise into 2 pieces, and tie to secure with a chive. Place the rolls on a tray covered with plastic wrap or wax paper, cover with a dampened paper towel and refrigerate until ready to serve. In a small bowl, mix the wasabi and chili with enough water to make a thick, stiff paste. Form the paste into four marble-size balls and reserve. To serve, place 2 pieces of each on 4 small plates. Garnish with the wasabi paste and a small mound of Green Mango Escabeche, and serve with a small bowl of soy sauce for dipping. Serves 4 For the Green Mango Escabeche:
Whisk together the remaining ingredients and toss with the mango. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, up to 2 days. Just before serving, drain the excess liquid from the mango and toss with the cilantro. Makes 11/2 cups Red Snapper Ceviche with Avocado Mash From ¡Ceviche! by Guillermo Pernot with Aliza Green
Shred or julienne daikon, or cut into thin curls with a Benriner cutter, and place in a bowl of cold water. Just before serving, cut avocado in half lengthwise. Twist the halves in opposite directions until one side pops off. Remove the pit; then use a spoon to scoop out the flesh. Place the avocado in a small bowl, add the remaining lime juice and salt, and mash with a fork. To serve, roll up fish loosely and arrange the rolls in 4 chilled, open-necked stem glasses or ceramic bowls. Drizzle with the Tobiko Wasabi Vinaigrette. Scoop a rounded teaspoon of avocado mash. Use a second teaspoon to form it into an egg shape, and place on top of 1 roll of fish. Continue with each roll. Place 1 red pepper diamond on top of the avocado egg and surround with about 1/4 teaspoon of tobiko caviar. Drain the shredded daikon, and garnish each serving with a small mound. Serves 4 For the Tobiko Wasabi Vinaigrette:
Makes 1/2 cup Grouper Tiradito From Chef Sean Bernal of Pescado
Spoon lime juice mix onto fish and garnish with scallion, choclo and cancha. Serves 2 as an appetizer Japanese Salmon with Wasabi and Shiso From The Great Ceviche Book by Douglas Rodriguez
Serves 6 Tuna Sashimi Ceviche Courtesy of SushiSamba
In a separate, non-reactive bowl, prepare the fish and vegetables by tossing the tuna with yellow pepper, red onion, cherry tomato, celery and jalapeño. Add citrus and oil emulsion to the fish and vegetables and toss. Plate ceviche and drizzle with chive oil. Serves one Gingered Toro Tuna with Soy and Sesame From The Great Ceviche Book by Douglas Rodriguez
Once frozen, remove the tuna from the freezer and slice it crosswise very thinly. In a nonreactive bowl, blend the marinade ingredients together. Add the tuna and gently toss. Serve immediately. Serves 6 Pickled Jalapeños From The Great Ceviche Book by Douglas Rodriguez (Ten Speed Press)
Stored in a glass container with a tight-fitting lid, jalapeños will keep for about a month in the refrigerator. Makes about 21/2 cups. Oyster Ceviche Horseradish and English Cucumber Salad from Ceviche! by Guillermo Pernot with Aliza Green
Combine the cucumber with the horseradish and remaining salt and pepper. To serve, arrange 4 oysters on each of 4 chilled serving plates. Spoon about 1/2 teaspoon of the beet mixture on one end of each oyster. Spoon about 1/2 teaspoon of the cucumber mixture on the other end of the oyster. Serve immediately with the crackers on a separate plate so that they stay crisp. Serves 4 Slow-Roasted Beets from Ceviche! by Guillermo Pernot with Aliza Green
Note: When cutting off the beet tops, be sure to leave on about 1/2" of stalk. If you cut into the flesh of the beet itself, it will bleed. Beef Tenderloin Tiradito Courtesy of SushiSamba
Cook the tenderloin tataki-style by searing it briefly in hot oil from all sides to brown it. Slice the tenderloin very thinly on a meat slicer. Combine the squash, carrots, greens, sprouts and edamame. Place 4 slices of the tenderloin on the left side of the plate, slightly overlapping. On the right side of the plate, place some of the dressing and top with the salad. Makes 4-5 servings "Simply Ming, by Ming Tsai and Arthur Boehm. Used with permission of Clarkson Potter/Publishers." "Used with permission from ¡Ceviche!, © 2001 by Guillermo Pernot with Aliza Green, Photographs © 2001 by Steve Legato, published by Running Press Book Publishers, Philadelphia and London. To order, call (800) 345-5359." "Reprinted with permission from The Great Ceviche Book by Douglas Rodriguez (with Laura Zimmerman). Photography by Christopher Hirsheimer. © Ten Speed Press." |
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