In the Côte d’Or, the typically diminutive size of the most important villages belies the magnificence of the resulting wines from their vineyards, in this case, Meursault.
PHOTO: COURTESY OF THE BIVB
Decanting the boutique domainsof the Côte d'OrText & Photographs by Kerin O'KeefeAlthough the film Sideways cannot totally explain America's newfound love affair with Pinot Noir, it did give both the wine and the grape an unprecedented Hollywood endorsement that subsequently sent sales and plantings soaring in the United States soon after its 2005 release. This heightened interest in Pinot Noir, made from one of the world's most temperamental and difficult grapes, has also revived American interest in wines from Burgundy, the undisputed kingdom of Pinot Noir and the grape's original home.
That the film's release and subsequent rave reviews coincided with intense media hype over Burgundy's celebrated 2005 harvest, hailed as one of the greatest vintages in recent memory (and now widely available stateside), further fueled excitement. The 2005s are fantastic, right down to the villages level, making the latter no-brainer bargains, despite the weakened dollar. The grand and premier cru bottlings from the vintage are some of the most cellar-worthy wines ever produced from the region and have stirred a global buying frenzy among collectors. According to the BIVB, the Burgundy Wine Council, not only is demand soaring in the States, the No. 2 market for the region's wines behind the United Kingdom, but globally 2007 exports are up 34 percent over 2005 levels.
Apart from the obvious benefits of a hit movie and a stellar vintage, coupled with the anticipation of the soon-to-be-released 2006s that are starting to show classic finesse and expressiveness, the re-awakened appreciation for Burgundy is, above all, a direct result of improved quality across the region. In addition to a new generation of ambitious winemakers who have the advantage of better knowledge in the vineyard and the cellar, Burgundy has noticeably benefited from the effects of global warming. Recent studies, including one released in 2006 by the University of Southern Oregon, demonstrate that average temperatures in Burgundy have risen two degrees Fahrenheit in the last 50 years and that spring frosts are less frequent. According to most producers, the higher average temperatures mean that ripening has become more consistent and, many winemakers say, as a result of the warmer climate, they have not had to resort to chaptalization, the addition of sugar to increase alcohol content, in the last few years.
Because pinot noir is uncommonly site sensitive, and therefore not suited to mass production, it is little wonder that Burgundy's boutique grower-producers are suddenly in the spotlight. The majority share a collective determination to exalt the region's famed terroirs through scrupulous, yet natural, methods in both the cellar and vineyard. These revitalized domaines are winning back savvy connoisseurs, as well as seducing new consumers who are eager to discover Pinots from some of the world's most celebrated appellations. Burgundy's Chardonnays, considered by many to be the greatest dry white wines on earth, are also benefiting from the renewed interest in the region.
Even if across-the-board quality is steadier than ever, discovering the best wines in Burgundy remains a daunting task, specifically in the Côte d'Or, the heart of Burgundy winemaking and the département most wine lovers readily associate with the region. Individual holdings of domaines and large houses are small and intensely fragmented due to archaic Napoleonic inheritance laws, and result in a multitude of hyphenated labels reflecting village and vineyard names. To complicate things even more, producers with less than 20 acres often make nearly as many wines from tiny parcels dispersed among various villages and have seemingly infinite portfolios. Buying from a reliable producer, however, is still the best guarantee.
Fortunately for enophiles, there are more serious-minded producers than ever making wine along Burgundy's Golden Slope, which is made up of two distinct areas: the Côte de Nuits in the north and the Côte de Beaune in the south. Of Burgundy's 4,600 domaines, 1,500 are located along this 30-mile-long strip of land. And the majority of Burgundy's 113 négociants (the large firms that buy grapes and/or wine from smaller growers and bottle them under their own name, sometimes in conjunction with their private domaine bottlings if the négociant happens to own vineyards) are also found in the Côte d'Or.
The Côte de Nuits is famed for its complex red wines of impressive structure, while the Côte de Beaune is known for more sumptuously structured reds and its regal, age-worthy whites. Because both areas have predominantly east and southeast facing slopes, local winegrowers note that the main difference lies in the soils. While both are chiefly composed of limestone and clay, the Côte de Nuits is dominated by limestone, while the Côte de Beaune has more clay and calcareous soils.
How much bedrock lies beneath the vines, and at what depth, also proves crucial to a wine's identity, as does a seemingly infinite amount of other variables. For example, one row of vines can separate a grand cru from a premier cru or a villages or regional wine. These unaccountable and innumerable differences are what make Burgundy so fascinating as well as bewildering.
Among a plethora of mind-numbing Burgundy statistics, two best illustrate the Côte d'Or's lofty status: of Burgundy's 33 grands crus, 32 blanket the Golden Slope (the other is in Chablis); equally telling, the majority of Burgundy's 570 registered climats, or important vineyard names, are sited here, underscoring an obsessive attachment to terroir.
Shockingly, despite this strong tradition of expressing a wine's individuality, much of Burgundy's famed terroir had been victimized by aggressive cellar practices, and even more significantly, by abrasive vineyard applications. While many other highly lauded Old World appellations had also been jeopardized by similarly intrusive tactics, the consequences in Burgundy, and particularly in the Côte d'Or, where even subtle differences between soil and, hence, wine, are fundamental to the region's overall identity, were potentially devastating.
"Back in the 1980s and part of the 1990s, growers in Burgundy, as in much of Europe during that time, were convinced that herbicides were crucial to attaining quality. It also proved more convenient for small, family-run domaines, always short on labor, to spray just a few treatments once a year as opposed to periodic ploughing in order to turn the soil," observes Jean-Marie Fourrier, one of today's top names from the famed Côte de Nuits village of Gevrey-Chambertin. Fourrier took over the once-revered winery, which had fallen out of fashion with certain international critics, from his father in 1994 when he was only 23 years old. Since then, the domaine's quality and reputation have surged under the young winemaker's stewardship.
"One of the first things I did was stop using herbicides because they were making our soil barren," Fourrier recalls. "And it can be no coincidence that problems with fermentation, which all winemakers had been experiencing, began at the same time growers started relying on weed killers in the vineyards. These chemicals effectively killed off the natural yeasts that are found in the soils and that spontaneously land on grape skins as a result of turning the earth, therefore making it necessary to use selected yeasts to begin alcoholic fermentation," he explains. "As soon as I stopped using herbicides and began ploughing, I've had virtually no problems with fermentation and only let natural yeasts do their work. And using these chemicals in the vineyards undoubtedly compromised the expression of terroir," continues the impassioned winemaker.
Fourrier, who also shuns chemical fertilizers and only uses treatments to combat fungus and parasites when absolutely necessary, owns 22 acres of vines that average between 50 and 90 years of age. Spread out over 70 parcels, the domaine's holdings are in some of the most heralded vineyards in the Côte de Nuits, including a slice of the rare Griottes-Chambertin Grand Cru and the illustrious Clos Saint-Jacques Premier Cru.
In the cellar, Fourrier, who gained experience by working with the iconic Henri Jayer and at Domaine Drouhin in Oregon before taking over his family's estate, is decidedly a passionate non-interventionist: "I basically start with only the absolute best grapes and do little else," he says. Or as little as possible. Fourrier carries out a cold soak for about four days before fermentation to gently extract color, bouquet and polyphenols; after fermentation the wines go into traditional 228-liter Burgundy barriques (known as pièces). To maintain the integrity of the estate's wines, all cuvées are aged in only 20 percent new oak with the balance in perfectly maintained, used barrels that are up to ten years old.
"Pinot noir is more delicate than say, cabernet sauvignon, and does not have the structure to withstand all new wood, which would overwhelm the wines," he declares. Once in barrel, the wines stay put until just before bottling, when they are racked to preserve CO2, which acts as a natural barrier against oxidation, thereby allowing Fourrier to greatly limit the use of sulfites.
A recent scandal over oxidation detected in some of Burgundy's famed whites from the 1996 to 1998 vintages (which should be in their prime) has spurred Fourrier to take a dramatic precaution. "A recent investigation by a local laboratory in Beaune so far confirms what we have long suspected: that lower-quality corks made from younger tree bark have allowed air to pass through and prematurely age the wine. Starting from the 2005 vintage, I individually coat each bottle top of my wines with a natural wax to discourage this passage of air," he elaborates. His care and attention have paid off handsomely; these days, Fourrier's grand and premier cru offerings are renowned for their pure fruit, creamy texture, minerality and supple tannins, while his fabulous villages wines often possess the impressive structure and finesse of many premiers crus.
Fourrier is not alone in his consummate dedication to quality winemaking. The young trailblazer is part of a growing group of environmentally sensitive viticulturists who shun the inhospitable vineyard tactics that, for a time, were widely practiced. "We embrace the 'lutte raisonée' idea of agriculture," says Chantal Tortochot, who, in 1993, left a career as a finance officer for a large petrol company to study enology. She has run the eponymous family firm since the late 1990s when her father handed her the reins. "This means that we only use treatments in reaction to a specific problem, when and if something occurs, but we don't bombard the vineyards constantly as prevention," explains Tortochot, whose 20 acres are mostly in the Côte de Nuits village of Gevrey-Chambertin with one holding in nearby Morey-Saint-Denis. "In 2003, we began a move towards organic viticulture, and are conducting studies in a test vineyard where we try to utilize only chemical-free products in order to protect the natural eco-system. The resulting soil will be more natural and more representative of the vineyard's unique soil type," she emphasizes.
The domaine's holdings include some of the most sought-after grand and premier cru sites, such as Charmes-Chambertin, Lavaux Saint-Jacques and a small but valuable parcel in Clos de Vougeot. "The soil in Gevrey-Chambertin is, overall, a mixture of chalk and clay, and very arid and thin; perfect for pinot noir. It is what gives the wines from here their complexity and ample aromas," Tortochot says. She is select with new wood, and utilizes 100 percent for her grands crus, 50 percent for the premiers crus and 25 percent for the villages wines. "We prefer medium toast so that the wood doesn't dominate the wine," she notes. Full-bodied and refined wines are the result, and while wood is evident in the young grands crus, none are overwhelmed, and toasty sensations enhance the premiers crus, proving that there is no golden rule for the use of new oak. Instead, the choice of wood aging depends on the particular provenance and merits of specific wines, but the main goal is always to help achieve the right balance.
Attaining a perfect balance of rich fruit, depth and structure coupled with refined tannins from pinot noir is a challenge that Hubert Lignier from the village of Morey-Saint-Denis has mastered beautifully for decades. In his home village, Lignier owns valuable tracts of vines from which he makes a powerful and complex Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, as well as a succulent La Riotte Premier Cru. The balance of the domaine's holdings are spread out between the villages of Gevrey-Chambertin and Chambolle-Musigny. From his vineyards in the former, Lignier crafts, among other wines, an exquisite Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru that is both silky and floral; from Chambolle-Musigny, his elegant and expressive Les Baudes Premier Cru is a must-have for Pinotphiles. He also makes an exceptional and dense Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru Vieilles Vignes from vines between 50 and 70 years old.
Like many of today's foremost estates, Domaine Lignier also treats the vines only if absolutely necessary and exclusively uses products that do not harm beneficial insects. It also sustains maximum respect for its old vines; plants are only replaced when they die, and are replanted solely with cuttings from the same vineyard. "The secret to our wines' concentration is the naturally lower yields that older plants generate because they are less vigorous," Lignier says. "An old vine's energy is focused on fewer bunches and, more importantly, old vines yield smaller grapes that contain a high skin-to-juice ratio, and less water."
Older vines also add impressive depth of character. "The root systems of older vines grow down very deep into the crevices of the rock shelf below in search of water and nutrients. These old vines always fare well, even in drought years like 2003, unlike young vines with shallow roots that suffer in very dry conditions. Further down, the roots also reach more minerals, which intensify the wine's complexity and flavor profile," adds Lignier's son Laurent. After the tragic loss of Hubert's younger son and successor Romain from a sudden illness in 2004, Laurent rejoined his father, who has had to put his retirement plans on hold. The two continue to make classic wines, crafted with a profound respect for a tradition that includes no selected yeasts and temperature-controlled fermentation only when necessary. The Lignier's well-structured yet graceful wines benefit from a subdued use of new wood - only 50 percent for the grands and premiers crus and between 20 and 30 percent for the villages wines.
Also in Morey-Saint-Denis, where the wines are known for their fleshy structures and bouquets laced with hints of violets, Domaine Taupenot-Merme is one of the rising stars. Though the roots of this family estate stretch back to 1760, today's domaine is the fusion of two winemaking families united by marriage. The firm's 32 acres boast prime locations in the Côte de Nuits, including Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny and Morey-Saint-Denis. Since being taken over by Romain and his sister Virginie in the late 1990s, quality and enthusiasm have noticeably risen. "In 2001, I went all organic in the vineyards," notes Romain Taupenot, who came to the domaine after more than ten years in finance.
"I was lucky, my father never used herbicides, always plowed, and for years had already been using organic fertilizer," he adds. "My goal is to make wines that naturally express the nuances of their terroir. To do so you have to be all natural in the vineyards, control yields with pruning, and not be aggressive in the cellars by avoiding selected yeasts and with attentive use of oak," he stresses. Taupenot uses 40 percent new wood for grands crus and less for his premiers crus and villages bottlings.
Taupenot emphasizes that well-structured, classically made wines can be initially austere and may need ample aging depending on the vintage. "Drinking a quintessential Pinot Noir from Burgundy can require patience, especially for a vintage like 2005, where the substantial tannins will require at least eight to ten years of cellaring to mellow. The 2006s, on the other hand, have a decidedly more elegant structure and will be ready sooner. You should drink these while you wait for the 2005s to mature," he notes. The necessity of opening bottles at least a couple of hours ahead of time to aerate was aptly demonstrated during a recent tasting of the domaine's wines back to the 1998 vintage. While initially closed, they bloomed after time in the glass, developing ample bouquets and depth. "I always prefer opening the bottle earlier rather than decanting, which I think can be traumatic to the wine's equilibrium," warns the enologist.
Just south of Morey-Saint-Denis in the village of Chambolle-Musigny, where wines are noted for their finesse and legendary minerality, is the Côte d'Or's oldest and one of its most respected wineries, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé. Though many domaines can boast 100 years of activity, only a few can trace their roots back before 1789 and the French Revolution, when most of the land was owned by the Catholic Church or titled aristocrats. Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé is one of those exceptions. It has been in continuous operation under the stewardship of the same family since 1450.
Though the entire village is reported to have suffered a slump in quality from the mid-1970s to the late 1980s, the growers tightened the criteria for their appellation in the early1990s and quality has since rebounded. The domaine, which owns nearly 31 acres entirely within the village, a staggering amount by Burgundian standards, is renowned for its complex and polished wines. Its acclaimed sites, located in some of the most prestigious vineyards in the village, include Musigny Grand Cru, from which the highly coveted and elegant Musigny Vieilles Vignes and the more masculine Bonnes Mares Grand Cru spring. The domaine also produces a decidedly feminine and floral yet equally complex Musigny Premier Cru Les Amoureuses.
According to the domaine's winemaker, François Millet, soil plays a defining role. "Here in Chambolle-Musigny, the limestone influence is very high and imparts a mineral strength to our wines that is both subtle and intense. This mineral drive is all about energy and luminosity," he explains. Moving from barrel to barrel in the domaine's ancient cellar, he proffers tastes from the lovely 2006 vintage, a classic for Pinot Noir. Exquisitely floral and vibrant, with jelly as opposed to jammy sensations, 2006 has been undeservedly penalized - or worse, ignored altogether - by the media following as it does on the heels of the flawless 2005 vintage that boasted perfect climatic conditions. "The 2005 was a marvelous vintage, but not typical, and has the power of impressing, while the 2006 has the power of seducing. Personally, I would rather be seduced than overpowered," Millet asserts. He is as equally succinct when describing his wines: "Les Amoureuses is a very important wine for Chambolle-Musigny, and is considered the 'First Lady' of the village because she is sensual, but always correct. The Musigny Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes is more intense, more complex, but they both have their clear Musigny identity in the vibrant fruit sensations and spice combined with quintessential, uplifting minerality. Bonnes Mares, on the other hand, is completely different. Our parcel is entirely in red soil, so the wine is more masculine, darker colored with less minerality, but more flesh."
Millet uses only 40 percent new wood for the grands crus, and 20 percent for the premiers crus and villages wines. "Too much new wood would destroy their intriguing minerality, and would render all our markedly different wines precariously similar; however, not enough new wood would be equally dangerous," he cautions. "Used barrels become dry, and if not meticulously maintained and properly stored when empty, they could impart a disturbing bitterness to the wines. To find the right balance, we need to understand the individual needs of our inimitable but very demanding wines," he adds. His linear but seductive bottlings usually benefit from laying down to reach their full potential.
Yet another domaine making elegant and intriguing wines in the Côte de Nuits is Domaine Anne Gros in Vosne-Romanée, a legendary village that is home to some of Burgundy's most prized vineyards, including La Tâche and Richebourg, and to what is perhaps France's most exclusive estate, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. In 1988, at a time when women were all but barred from Burgundy's cellars, Gros, at the then-tender age of 18, began taking on most of the domaine's responsibilities when her father was in ill health. She made many changes, including bottling 100 percent of the domaine's wines rather than selling to négociants, and employing healthier vineyard practices.
Today Gros has more than proved herself. The domaine's 16 acres include the illustrious grands crus Richebourg and Clos de Vougeot while its austere villages appellation, Vosne-Romanée Les Barreaux, has developed a cult following thanks to its remarkable structure and enticing flavors of wild fruit and herbs imparted by 100-year-old vines and iron-rich soil. "Our philosophy is combining power with extreme elegance. We always try to extract only the most refined tannins and fresh fruit that complement the wine's mineral layers," Gros explains. The domaine relies on 80 percent new oak for the grands crus and 50 percent for the villages wines "to give the wine aromatic complexity, weight and structure."
While premier bottlings crafted by top estates from the famed villages of the Côte de Nuits, such as Vosne-Romanée and Gevrey-Chambertin, command high prices based on reputation and demand, the savviest consumers are looking to secondary appellations in the district for outstanding quality-price ratios. One such place is Côte de Nuits-Villages, an appellation authorized in five communes dispersed throughout the district.
While infamous for variable quality, those wines made in the south of the area near the border with the Côte de Beaune, are gaining cachet. Here, headquartered in the village of Corgoloin, Domaine Desertaux-Ferrand has been steadily building a reputation for dependable and distinct wines at very budget-friendly prices. Winemaker Vincent Desertaux and his wife, Geneviève, who joined Vincent's sister Christine at the winery in 2000, are together turning out fruity, fleshy wines, like the red Côte de Nuits-Villages Les Perrieres made from the stony vineyard of the same name, and the rare white Côte de Nuits-Villages Blanc from chardonnay and pinot blanc.
"In 2000, we had decided to diversify and expand to other appellations, and since then have acquired parcels in nearby Côte de Beaune, including a Beaune Premier Cru, Meursault Premier Cru, Pommard and Ladoix," Desertaux says. "After September 11th, there was a market crash that producers at the lesser-known appellations profoundly felt. Our situation was further compromised by the onslaught of well-priced wines from the New World, and things really didn't turn around until mid-2005, thanks to the happy combination of Sideways and the fantastic 2005 vintage," he continues. "So adding other appellations to our portfolio became essential to stabilize the firm's future." Desartaux's long and minerally Meursault aptly demonstrate the wisdom of this strategy as well as the winemaker's versatility.
Although the Côte de Nuits is synonymous with Pinot Noir, the larger Côte de Beaune to the south also provides outstanding reds from the world's trendiest grape, in addition to world-class whites. Separating the two districts is the village of Ladoix-Serrigny in the Côte de Beaune, which, in terms of volume, is overall a red appellation. Indeed, at first glance, it may appear to be an extension of the Côte de Nuits, thanks to its well-structured Pinots. Having less aura than its famed neighbors, the Ladoix appellation's rich and smooth wines, including several outstanding premiers crus, are astoundingly underestimated. Therefore, Ladoix currently offers some of the best values in Côte d'Or. In a model of Burgundian confusion, the village of Ladoix-Serrigny also shares two grand cru appellations - the red Corton and the extraordinary white Corton-Charlemagne - with the nearby villages of Aloxe-Corton and Pernand-Vergelesses.
Twenty years ago, most of Ladoix's wines were sold to négociants as Côte de Beaune-Villages. Several quality pioneers, like Domaine Edmond Cornu & Fils and Domaine Chevalier Père & Fils, have since set the pace for the entire appellation. They began vinifying and bottling the best vineyards separately, and today turn out inspiring and charming wines. "Being on the border between the two côtes, Ladoix's full-bodied and tannic red wines often resemble bottlings from Côte de Nuits rather than Côte de Beaune. This is due to the higher limestone soil in select vineyards," says Pierre Cornu, who is now in the driver's seat at the family estate. "For example, our Ladoix Premier Cru La Corvée has the ripe black fruit flavors and tannic structure that hallmark Côte de Nuits, though most reds in the Côte de Beaune are rounder, with more finesse than power, and red fruit sensations," he elaborates.
Today the estate owns 37 acres, 33 of which are planted to pinot. Both La Corvée and the domaine's earthy and concentrated Ladoix Vieilles Vignes are made from 40- to 80-year-old vines that, according to Cornu, are favorites with their American importer and connoisseur of classic Pinot Noir, Neal Rosenthal. The firm also makes a dazzling grand cru, Corton-Bressandes, hallmarked by Corton's trademark of crushed red berries and forest notes accompanied by lithe tannins and mineral sensations. The estate, proud bearer of the prestigious "L'Agriculture Raisonnée" qualification that certifies that it meets the rigidly controlled standards of rational viticulture methods, is extremely conservative with new wood, using on average only ten percent new barrels for red wines. "I like to say that I make wine, not infusions," Cornu jokes.
Another key player in the border village is Domaine Chevalier, founded in 1859. "Since 2000, the estate has undergone a lot of changes with the sole goal of raising the bar on quality," says Claude Chevalier of his family-run domaine. Since then, the estate has employed the services of enologist Kyriakos Kynigopoulos, one of the most influential consultants working with pinot noir today. "We wanted to improve the wines without losing varietal and vintage typicity, so many changes regard the timing and frequency of already established techniques," Chevalier explains. "For example, waiting for maximum maturation for both our pinot noir and chardonnay has proved crucial. For the reds, Kynigopoulos prefers a long, pre-fermentary maturation to gently extract color and fruit aromas," he continues. "And for all wines, he advocates constant surveillance and testing in the cellar. This allows us to decide on a daily basis how many times to punch down the cap and pump over during fermentation."
Like nearly all the top domaines, Chevalier favors natural yeasts and is moderate with its application of new wood - only 50 percent new barrels for the grands crus and 25 percent for premiers crus and villages wines. The domaine's Ladoix Premier Cru Les Corvées and red Corton-Rognet Grand Cru have helped place the rather obscure area on Burgundy lovers' maps, while their remarkably lush yet steely Corton-Charlemagne has proven that the grand whites hailing from the Ladoix-Serrigny side of the famed Corton hill can match the complexity and finesse of the more celebrated Corton-Charlemagnes hailing from parcels in Aloxe-Corton and Pernand-Vergelesses.
Another pocket producing exciting red wines in the Côte de Beaune is Pommard, the only village in the district to focus exclusively on reds. Though Pommard's full-bodied and potent bottlings have a long history of international fame, until recently the appellation suffered an image problem, due to notorious malpractice, including widespread adulteration with cheaper and inferior grapes from regional vineyards rather than the controlled Pommard fruit. Because of this, many observers have long maintained that it is essential to focus on the area's premiers crus or villages wines specified with a vineyard name, known as lieux-dits. Once again, however, the new generation has fast made crucial improvements, and the negative connotations have lately been replaced with glowing superlatives.
Sandwiched between Beaune and Volnay, Pommard displays an independent spirit; similarly, its wines do not resemble the delicate reds made by its neighbors. Instead, Pommard's chewy renderings are among the most powerful and tannic in all of Burgundy, and demand years of cellaring to soften their austere, aggressive characteristics. One of the rising stars of Pommard, ironically, is one of its oldest estates, Domaine Parent.
Even though the firm was officially founded in 1803, the family can trace its wine roots to the 17th century. According to family documents, in 1787, ancestor Etienne Parent - a good friend of Burgundy aficionado and future president Thomas Jefferson - began procuring wines for the then-ambassador to France while he was residing in Paris. Parent later exported Burgundy to Jefferson upon his return to Virginia and throughout his presidency. The domaine has remained in the family and, since 1998, has been guided by the energetic Anne Parent and her sister Catherine.
Now in charge of the cellars, Anne notes, "Obviously, the Côte d'Or is the benchmark for Pinot Noir, so it is essential that winemakers here produce only superlative wine to compete in today's challenging market. We are now certified organic and use only natural alternatives in the vineyards. We carefully control yields with the Cordon de Royat training system and eliminate small leaves in select spots to allow more sunlight and healthy breezes." Parent subscribes to winemaking techniques, such as destemming and a short cold soak before fermentation, that help refine Pommard's naturally bracing tannins. Three separate coopers custom-make barrels for her from forests in both eastern and central France at different levels of toast, yet she only uses 50 to 60 percent new oak for her premiers crus and less for the villages wines. The resulting Domaine Parent Pommard Premiers Crus Les Epenots and Les Argillieres are solid with succulent fruit, yet at the same time are decidedly graceful and well balanced. (Another producer making excellent Pommard, as well as smooth and silky Volnays, is the organic and biodynamic Domaine Hubert de Montille, a firm featured in the 2004 cult film Mondovino.)
Despite the many notable reds grown here, the Côte de Beaune is more celebrated for its superlative whites - Chardonnays that have inspired imitators the world over. Perhaps no names cause weaker knees in lovers of white Burgundy than can the aforementioned Corton-Charlemagne, along with Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Meursault. Montrachet Grand Cru bottlings from illustrious producers, such as Comtes Lafon and Sauzet, often demand downright prohibitive prices. Case in point: A bottle of Montrachet from Comtes Lafon easily retails for over $1,000, and more in hyped vintages. Fortunately, there are lesser-known domaines that make outstanding alternatives, that while not cheap, will not require a second mortgage.
Firmly established among Burgundy's finest white producers is Domaine Louis Carillon & Fils, whose top wines are priced on the high side, with his Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru retailing at around $375, as is expected from an estate making some of the flat-out best wines in the village. Louis Carillon himself, who has been joined by sons Jacques and François, is a firm believer in tradition, and honors a family viticultural legacy that extends back to 1632. Low yields, barrel fermentation and aging with occasional bâtonnage, and a judicious use of new oak, give the wines rich intensity and fresh elegance. The majority of the firm's 30 acres are centered in the village of Puligny-Montrachet. Prize holdings include Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru and four premiers crus: Les Perrières, Les Combettes, Les Referts and Les Champs Canet.
When young, these whites possess astoundingly pure fruit sensations and crisp acidity, but the district's top whites are also quite age-worthy. "These days, everyone drinks the wines very young, and though they are immensely enjoyable, older Puligny-Montrachet and Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet take on complex mineral characteristics and a mellow creaminess that most consumers never wait for," Carillon points out. He also cautions, "About six months after bottling, the wines close down, usually for about one to two years. This mute phase is normal, but it surprises people if they don't know." For those who prefer the vibrant fruit flavors, he recommends "drinking them three to five years after the vintage when they've re-opened." Carillon concedes that for his own taste, he waits five to seven years for the wines to develop their mineral complexity.
Other lesser-known vignerons in the area producing wines of note for their quality and value are Domaine Henry Boillot, Meursault-based Château Génot-Boulanger, run since 1998 by architect-turned-winemaker François Delaby, and Domaine Jean-Michel Gaunoux, whose Meursault Premier Cru Goutte d'Or is a classic with lush stone fruit and crisp minerality.
Because of its mind-boggling number of small producers, appellations and vineyard names, the Côte d'Or may always remain something of a conundrum to the uninitiated and to Burgundy veterans as well. But with the splendid 2005s flying off retail shelves and the impressive 2006s already in the pipeline, there is no time like the present to delve into its artisan domaines. One thing is certain: When superbly crafted by a sure hand, it is only in the golden heart of Burgundy that both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay can scale such heights of magnificence.
Contributing Editor Kerin O'Keefe is an American wine writer who has lived in Italy since 1989 and tracks both the Italian and French wine scenes.
Tasting BAR
The wines that follow were tasted by the author at the domaines. They were not tasted blind.
Domaine Anne Gros
2005 Vosne-Romanée Les Barreaux - $147: (Made from 100-year-old-vines.) Bright strawberry-raspberry nose with hints of violets, wet earth and minerals. Concentrated berry and allspice flavors punctuated by a touch of smoke; firm structure with tight yet polished tannins. Long finish closes on a mineral note. Score: 91
2005 Richebourg Grand Cru - $795: Enticing aromas of blackberry and raspberry with hints of licorice, earth and herbs. Rich palate of succulent berry fruit, cedar and spice; firm tannins are gripping yet silky, lending a sublimely elegant texture. A wine of breed that needs time to reveal its full potential. Score: 94
2005 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru Le Grand Maupertui - $375: Generous, earthy aromas with secondary wood spice and refined dark fruit scents. Lush plum and berry flavors, wood overtones and hints of pepper and clove. Tight, tannic and still on its oak; needs time, but grand cru breeding is already obvious. Score: 92
Château Génot-Boulanger
2006 Meursault Clos du Cromin - $40: Heady nose of pineapple, pear and candle wax. Vibrant tropical fruit flavors show a bit of chalk on the close. Score: 87
2005 Puligny-Montrachet Les Nosroyes - $55: Buttery aromas layered with tropical fruit and hints of vanilla and stone. Forward tropical fruit enhanced by notes of spice and cream. Score: 87
Domaine Chevalier
2005 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru - $174: Rich, ripe, creamy aromas with wisps of lemon peel and cedar. Luscious flavors of white stone fruit, honey and flint that resonate in the incredibly long finish that concludes on an invigorating mineral note. Complex and impressive. Score: 94
2005 Ladoix Premier Cru Les Corvées - $63: Bright raspberry and strawberry nose with hints of game and earth. Vibrant berry flavors balanced by racy acidity and bracing yet refined tannins. Still tight and austere. Score: 92
2005 Corton-Rognet Grand Cru - $140: Rich, concentrated red fruit aromas with underlying hints of earth, flint and oak. Wild berry flavors layered with spicy notes and punctuated by fine tannins; impressively structured. A pure mineral sensation charges the finish. Score: 93
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé
2006 Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Amoureuses - $N/A: Classic Pinot scents of fresh strawberry jelly and mineral notes. Sublime, impeccably balanced flavors of strawberry, raspberry and flint with elegant tannins. Long, mineral finish. Score: 94 (Barrel sample; U.S. release 11/08)
2006 Musigny Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes - $N/A: Vibrant, complex nose of fresh cherry, violets, rose and spice with a hint of crème brülée. Rich yet restrained fruit flavors balanced by extra-fine tannins. Long finish closes on a cinnamon note. Elegance aligned with power. Score: 95 (Barrel sample; U.S. release 11/08)
Domaine Desertaux-Ferrand
2006 Meursault Premier Cru Les Bouchères - $80: Subtle yet concise aromas of pineapple, hazelnut and butter that resonate on the palate. Good structure and lengthy finish. Score: 90
2005 Côte de Nuits-Villages Les Perrieres - $32: Enticing varietal aromas of strawberry-raspberry with marked mineral sensations. Concentrated berry flavors with an enlivening mineral close. Pleasing and delicious. Score: 88
Domaine Edmond Cornu & Fils
2005 Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru - $110: Generous, elegant Pinot aromas of red fruit and minerals with round, creamy cherry-berry flavors. Supple, smooth tannins are sublimely elegant. Great balance and length. A wine with flair and personality. Score: 95
2005 Ladoix Premier Cru La Corvée - $55: Opulent black fruit and mineral aromas. Concentrated flavors of black cherry and plum balanced by bracing tannins. Lengthy finish closes on a mineral note. Score: 93
2005 Ladoix Vieilles Vignes - $35: Precise nose of raspberry and earth. Concentrated black fruit and mineral flavors framed by big, velvety tannins and a lengthy finish. Surprising depth for this category. Terrific value. Score: 90
2005 Ladoix Premier Cru Bois Roussot - $45: Classic, intense red fruit and floral aromas. Succulent berry-cherry flavors with hints of stone and flint are wonderfully balanced by ultrafine, supple tannins. Very polished and refined. A great value. Score: 92
Domaine Fourrier
2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Les Goulots - $105: Rich, creamy red fruit aromas with precise minerality. Ripe red berry flavors with deep earth and mineral notes; supremely balanced with firm tannins and fresh acidity. Closes on a pure mineral note. Great length, depth and concentration. Score: 93
2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Les Champeaux - $125: Classic Pinot aromas of strawberry and raspberry with elegant violet and rose nuances. Sappy yet fresh red berry flavors with smooth, tight tannins. A pure, clean finish. Delicious and well structured, but will benefit from a few more years in bottle. Score: 93
2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Combes-aux-Moines - $125: Concentrated black and red fruit aromas with a pronounced earthiness that carries over to the palate. Complex yet still reserved, tight and tannic. Will evolve beautifully; best after 2012. Score: 92
2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Clos Saint-Jacques - $N/A: A grand cru to all effects. Complex, concentrated bouquet emitting infinite layers of ripe Pinot fruit, minerals and freshly tilled earth. Dense concentration restrained by smooth, polished tannins. Superbly balanced with a long, precise finish. Score: 94 (Barrel sample; U.S. release 2009)
Domaine Hubert Lignier
2005 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru - $300: Gorgeous, complex bouquet of wild cherry, raspberry and black fruit with whiffs of violets and earth. Rich, dense palate with layers of ripe black fruit punctuated by radiant minerality; impeccably balanced with firm, muscular tannins and lively acidity. Truly magnificent now, yet still very young; will age and evolve beautifully over the next two decades. Score: 97
2006 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru - $300: Ravishing perfume of rose, violets, wild cherry and strawberry with mineral undertones. Fresh, lively palate offers layers of fresh, rich red fruit, hints of wet earth and underbrush with exhilarating yet supple tannins. Remarkable depth with a long, mineral finish. Stunning combination of creamy texture, a powerful mineral aspect and elegance. Will be immensely enjoyable upon release. Score: 95 (Barrel sample; U.S. release 2009)
2005 Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru Les Chaffots - $140: Classic Pinot nose of red fruit, earth and flint. Lush, concentrated red berry flavors restrained by silky-smooth tannins. Expressively elegant and lightly earthy with a long, mineral finish. This vineyard's higher altitude yields wines of exceptional freshness and finesse. Score: 92
2005 Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru Vieilles Vignes - $175: (Made from 50- to 70-year-old vines.) Rich, ripe, complex nose of black fruit, violets and earth with precise minerality. Generous layers of mouthwatering red and black fruit flavors accented by minerals and a hint of spice. Impeccably balanced with an impressive tannic structure that will only get better with time. Magnificent. Score: 93
Domaine Jean-Michel Gaunoux
2005 Meursault Premier Cru Goutte d'Or - $77: Enticing aromas of succulent citrus fruit and flint. Pure, lemony flavors with electrifying acidity and a long, minerally finish. Somewhat closed and austere, yet rich with potential. Will evolve beautifully over the next three years. Score: 90
Domaine Louis Carillon & Fils
2005 Puligny-Montrachet - $75: Lively aromas of lemon, grapefruit and pineapple with racy mineral undertones. Crisp and fresh with impressive structure for a villages wine. Score: 90
2005 Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Referts - $120: Bright nose of lemon peel, cream and minerals. Chewy fruit flavors balanced by almost austere mineral nuances. Incredibly pure, long and linear. Score: 92
2005 Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Perrières - $120: Ample, concentrated aromas of stone fruit and exotic spices. Full, round fruit flavors restrained by sharp acidity and minerality. Impressive length. Score: 93
2006 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru - $375: Complex, enticing, floral bouquet with creamy accents and minerals. Rich and smooth with lush lemon and spice flavors. Plush, impressively long finish imbued with an uplifting mineral charge. Absolutely gorgeous. Score: 95
Domaine Parent
2006 Corton Grand Cru Blanc - $137: Fresh, lively aromas of pear and minerals with exotic fruit flavors and knife-like mineral precision. Clean, long and linear. Exhilarating. Score: 92
2005 Pommard Premier Cru Les Argillieres - $74: Captivating dark fruit aromas layered with earth and hints of ginger and vanilla. Ripe plum and raspberry flavors balanced by solid yet supple tannins that demonstrate great aging potential. Finishes with suggestions of licorice and minerals. Powerful and rich. Score: 91
2005 Pommard Premier Cru Les Epenots - $97: Classic Pinot aromas of strawberry and raspberry with floral notes. Dense, concentrated berry flavors offer a hint of spice; super-fine tannins impart a silky-smooth structure. Score: 92
Domaine Taupenot-Merme
2005 Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru La Riotte - $91: Enticing bouquet of black fruit with whiffs of minerals and cinnamon. Rich berry-plum flavors accented by white pepper, cinnamon and mineral notes. Firm yet fine tannins show splendid cellar potential. Lengthy finish closes on a licorice note. Fantastic. Score: 93
2005 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru - $142: Heady, perfumed black cherry nose with traces of violets. Extremely elegant and complex with layers of succulent, creamy red fruit flavors graced with mineral notes and impeccably balanced by silky tannins. Will age beautifully. Glorious. Score: 95
2005 Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru - $150: Concentrated aromas of black fruit and earth. Dense black cherry and raspberry flavors; firm and structured with round, velvety tannins. Spectacular length that requires more cellar time; best after 2012. A superb wine of power and finesse. Score: 96
Domaine Tortochot
2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Champeaux - $85: Heady perfume of roses, blackberry and underbrush. Flavors of ripe black fruit, plum and spice. Refined yet still tight and tannic; needs time to mellow to develop the vineyard's trademark elegance. Score: 91 - KO
